I've been trying to get the drums off the back of the Burb, but am having troubles. The drums rotate free and there is very little to no brake drag. Anyone have any advice here?
I've been trying to get the drums off the back of the Burb, but am having troubles. The drums rotate free and there is very little to no brake drag. Anyone have any advice here?
Run the adjusters way in... There will be a ridge and this makes getting the drums off a pain.
The other option is to remove the entire hub and drum together. They come off easier without moving the adjusters that way.
Take your pick.
Removing the rear hub on my 96 did not help the processes. Is there a difference between the 95 and 96 axle? Perhaps I did not remove everything I should have, but I ended up basically forcing the damn thing off. If you can move your adjusters through the slot in the bottom, back it down and the drum will come off. Mine where frozen, so it was no fun. I had to pry the drum off. I was going to put new hardware on anyway, but it was still a mess.
Jeffrey Todd
_ _ _ _ ___ _ _ _ _
'96 6.5TD GMC Suburban 2500 4x4 - 300,000 miles, JK remote FSD, Dual Thermostats
Hauler...
when all else fails, I'm down the road a piece with big torch!
95 Suburban 1500 Bone Stock Orig.
purchased at 103K from first owner
new alternator/autozone gold @104K
re-trannyed with shift kit @107.5K
new Bilsteins all around @ 127K
Kennedy exhaust @128k ..zoom!
new lift pump w/OPS bypass @ 130K
Kennedy FSD cooler @ 135K
New IP/Injectors/G-plugs @ 137k
Another autozone alternator and Optima Reds @ 150K
Another pump and injectors @157K
New chain and gears @157K
HO pump single therm setup @157K (will see what happens)
Head gasket or worse to be determined...164k
NEW AM General 6.5 installed and running well! @ 164K!!!!!
The drum may be rusted to the hub (2500 is full float? If not, then substitute "may be rusted to the axle flange"). I find that a few blows from a BFH - hitting the face of the drum between the wheel studs - usually breaks it loose.
1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer...new 6.5 in process...diamond block, 18:1's, other goodies...
If you have a tourch handy, run it on the drum right around the bolt ring, you don't need much and then maby a smack with a hammer. Use a oxy/acet propane isn't hot enough it will take too long to get the heat where you need it. You're not trying to heat red, just run around a couple of times, 20 or 30 seconds. Never had one that I couldn't get off this way.
Good luck
Brian
Stock 98 Chev Silverado 2500 4x4
Try backing the parking brake cables off, if you've had to adjust them they might have taken up a lot of the clearance necessary to get the ridge over the shoes.
I've used a small chisel to knock the heads off the nails and pulled the shoes & hardware out with the drums before. They came out far enough to unhook the parking brake cable. The ridge was so bad that even with the adjusters & parking brake cables backed off all the way the drums wouldn't budge.
Phil
'90 Jeep Wrangler, 4.2l, AX15, Dana 30 & 35 with 3.07s (for now!) 4" Rough Country lift, 33x10.5x15 BFG KM2s
'91 F350 XLT Lariat crew cab, 2WD SRW, 7.3l IDI, ZF S5-42, 3.55 LSD.
You took the mallet and struck the bell as it hung on the rounded edge of the tube. Whats that got to do with brakes???? everything - the brake drum is just a big bell. Take your BIGGEST hammer - put on your safety glasses - maybe a face shield and a leather jacket - gloves optional. At a 45 degree angle to the outside edge of the brake drum wind up and WACK IT. Repeat as necessary moving around the edge! I have removed stubborn drums like this with one blow - installed them on my brake lathe and if they were still in spec -they turned out with a min of run out - At today
Last edited by stingthieves; 06-20-2006 at 15:17.
95K3500.Ext.Cab 4L80E 200,000 + miles; 3 gauge pillar pod pre turbo temp- boost- trans temp. 97 Cooling mods Fan / fan clutch, dual Tstat and water pump, Hi Pop Injectors, fast heat glow plugs, DSG gears, intake snorkel removed, air box mods, hi idle mod, dMax pipes for exhaust, FSD mounted on intake, Monroe Shocks. Homemade cooler lines, H7B coolers replace stock trans and oil devices, remote mount with 2 quart Wix filter aux micron filter, OPS relay and headlight boosters, glow plug extender, and an FPPF cocktail in every tank.
i dont believe the 95-96 drum will slide off the hub, the hub must be removed, then the wheel studs pressed out to get the drum off.
This is how i have to do mine. I have seen later models that slide off the hub though (not sure what years).
Much like the front, the hubs must be removed first, all the studs driven out, then the rotor will fall off the back of the hub.
95 K2500 HD "F" JK "big" chip, JK big intercooler, high-pops, JK 4 inch exhaust, fsd cooler, Auto Meter guages, Holeset turbo from a 5.9L Cummins, fresh 18:1 eng w/new IP, no vac pump.
I did once get the passenger drum off without removing the hub. This time, I started with the driver hub and had no luck. I will try the torch, hammer, and adjusters....Originally Posted by Patrick m.
They do look rusted to the hub...
More to follow...
The drums will come off.
they are going to be tight. Simply apply some good thunks with a 5 pound club right on the edge of the drum. Be careful not to get too overzelous with the club and bend the drum.
I have had the drums of 94/95 and 96's and they can be a tad honery but they will come off. try a little skunk piss right around the center hub and then give it a go with the club.
Good luck
Robyn
What the hell is ''skunk piss''????????
94 Chev Blazer, 6.5TD, 3.42, 4WD,Gear drive,,Remote FSD behind drivers headlight,,Mobil 1 in difs and trans,Rotella 30W, Over a quarter of a million miles !! Member -1.94 club.
Probably PB B'laster, because it sure does smell bad! Maybe the smell is what makes penetrating oil work, because PB really does work well LOL
Phil
'90 Jeep Wrangler, 4.2l, AX15, Dana 30 & 35 with 3.07s (for now!) 4" Rough Country lift, 33x10.5x15 BFG KM2s
'91 F350 XLT Lariat crew cab, 2WD SRW, 7.3l IDI, ZF S5-42, 3.55 LSD.
if you are going to "beat" the drums that much, i hope you have a brake lathe, or new drums.
95 K2500 HD "F" JK "big" chip, JK big intercooler, high-pops, JK 4 inch exhaust, fsd cooler, Auto Meter guages, Holeset turbo from a 5.9L Cummins, fresh 18:1 eng w/new IP, no vac pump.
I take great care not to mention brand name products as to not get caught endorsing the stuff.
Yup Skunk piss is what daddy used to call any and all penetrating oil.
Yup some of the stuff really stinks hence the term
No problem plugging a brand name, as long as you aren't pitching it. Please share your experiences with products, good or bad. Inquiring minds want to know.Originally Posted by robyn
Keep in mind....We do have some young (or otherwise sensitive) readers on ocasion. Nothing wrong with pet names and frequent/common garage terms, within reason. We are pretty lax with the sensor, but we are mostly adults here....Right? Abbreviations are acceptible. (why is abbreviation such a long word???)
I have had to use the BFH just to get my wheels off of the hub. The first time I took it to a Firestone store to have them rotated the guy couldn't get the one back one off. With 75,000 miles I still have to beat them off.
Ray H. Peterson
raypete57@yahoo.com
1999 GMC Suburban 6.5TD 3.42 LT265/75 R16 New IP @ 50,000 miles
Rebuilt Jasper engine @ 61000 miles
Just about all the names I've heard for penetrating oil can't be used, with out offending someoneOriginally Posted by robyn
Stock 98 Chev Silverado 2500 4x4
Mine were also rusted tight on the '83. I heat and beat on them for weeks on the edge trying to beat them "out" but they would not budge even with "skunk oil" (PB Blaster). Drove it to a trusty old mechanic friend and he said "no, no, no... don't beat the drums out. Here let me show you the right way..." He took a 3 pound hammer and pounded "in" right between the studs. I thought for sure he was going to nick the threads on the studs. It wasn't a minute and the drums almost hoped right off the axle. Tried the same thing on the Blazer a year later and dang if it didn't work almost instantly. As someone mentioned before, I now put a light coat of anti-sieze on the hub hole and the contact surface between the drum and axle. I don't usually have any problems, now.
Mark Chapman DP member #653;
1983 K2500 6.2 Suburban, 4" lift, 35" tires, ATS turbo, Banks exhaust/intake, pyrometer, tachometer;
1986 K5 6.2 Blazer, 2" lift, 33" tires, Banks intake, pyrometer, tachometer
1963 wife, one owner, average mileage for the age but in excellent shape, a keeper
1992 daughter, low mileage, pretty, limited edition, but requires some money to maintain
1995 son, sports model, very fast & peppy, time will tell on durability and maintenance costs
"Grease is good"
That is how we used to remove the axle shafts on tractor trailer truck drive axles. I accually got quite accurate with a 15lb maul considering the target is less than 6" in dia.Originally Posted by Subzilla
Carey
97 GMC K3500 6.5TD 4.10 CC SRW +259K miles; Kennedy Fan Clutch w/ 20" steel fan; Greg's Oil Cooler Lines; Racor 445 30 micron w/ heater pre-lift pump; Dr Lee By-pass Oil Filter; High Idle Switch; Revo 265/75/R16 Load Range E tires