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Thread: G 80 Locker Install

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    109

    Question

    I would like to find a new/used G80 locker for my '97 14 Bolt FF. How hard are these to install if I can find one? Is there any adjustment or do you just pull the axles and remount the ring gear? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also does anyone have any suggestions on where to find a used G80 and what to look for in terms of condition.

    thanks
    Chris
    1997 K2500 6.5L, Ext. Cab, Long Bed
    -Max-E Tork
    -Turbo Master
    -H2O Injection

    1999 Trans Am - 6sp, LS1

  2. #2
    Heartbeat Hauler Guest

    Post

    Well, if it's used it's not in the truck for a reason. If you are looking for one out of a wrecked vehicle, then I would say look for low miles. I know for a fact that the G80 Auburn units in the b-body (Caprice/ImpalaSS, etc) are not rebuildable and the popular thinking is if you have it apart put in an aftermarket unit.

    As far as doing it yourself, pinion depth and gear mesh are very important when re-assembling the rear end. Not getting this correct can cause anything from gear whine to premature failure. There are shims that set the ring & pinion and usually if you put it back together exactly like you took it apart you may not have a problem. Get a good book and prpoer tools, take your time, and pay attention to detail and you can do it. Good luck, you're a braver man than I
    JP

  3. #3
    rjschoolcraft Guest

    Post

    FYI, the Auburn units now have an exchange program...

    It is critical to get the tooth contact pattern right when changing components in the rear diff. The shims are used to accomodate differences in piece-parts due to manufacturing tolerances. A pattern check should be performed using gear marking compound during reassembly.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Location
    Independence, KY, USA
    Posts
    194

    Post

    As heartbeat hauler mentioned, doing it right is critical. However, the pinion depth should be OK since the new diff will rotate in the same location.(It will not move closer to or farther from the pinion) Backlash will be the critical dimension. This is adjusted by shimming the diff left or right. This will require a dial indicator to set properly. Also, I believe there is a spec on shimming preload. This involves shimming the diff to zero clearance and then adding one shim on each side of the diff. Consult a quality manual for the procedure.
    2001 Silverado 2500HD CC Dmax 6spd<br />TST PowerMax<br />Forum #1321 Sold

    1994 GMC Suburban K2500 6.5

    2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.6

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Willits, Ca. U.S.A.
    Posts
    478

    Post

    I've installed 3 of these and on the full floater you do not have to shim. They have adjustable carrier bearing holders. I take a punch and make two marks on one side and one mark on the other. I count the turns I unscrew them. I use new bearings and races. What you want is an Eaton Gov-lock, not an Auburn. I just priced one from a dealer yesterday for a vehicle at work and it lists for around $600 dollars. They are very easy to do. tpitt
    2004 G.M.C. LLY CC D/A sb 4wd Summit White, ATS Duals, BD X-monitor, BD Exhaust Brake, Snugtop shell, 45 gal. Transferflow fuel tank, AFE stage II
    2004 TDI Jetta GLS S/W
    2005 TDI Passat GLS S/W
    2020 GMC Denali 2500HD

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