Right choise of locker?

I drive a 2WD 1983 Silverado 6.2, TH7004r with 14 bolt SF 9.5 4.10 rearaxle I want to not get stuck on slippery mud or ice anymore (easily happen with empty box) so I am planning to install a locker. I first thought that an E-locker or Air locker should be the right choice because I like that I decide when to engage and disengage. But after surfing around on YouTube I know have the idea - without knowing much in this field - that a Torsen locker should be a good choice. Happy to hear any comments to that.

All the best from Sweden

Nothing 2WD is going to prevent getting stuck. A manual locker is really no better or different than an automatic type, and often not as good. Both are reactive. A locked rear axle on a 2WD vehicle will get you into more trouble than get you out of. If you anticipate a slippery condition and lock the differential, you lose much of your directional control: the vehicle will want to drive according to the friction at the rear wheels, despite what you're doing with the steering wheel. An open differential may allow the wheel with the least friction to slip, but will not try to "steer" the front end. If the rear is slippery, the front is likely, as well. For this reason, specific to 2WD vehicles, I recommend a limited slip differential. As a matter of simplicity, the G80 option (RPO code for locking rear differential) for your 1983 truck was a limited slip differential. Factory replacement aftermarket parts are still available, as well as a few aftermarket systems. The Gov-Lock differentials began in model year 1995, replacing limited slip to this day as an OEM option.

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Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick

Nothing 2WD is going to prevent getting stuck. A manual locker is really no better or different than an automatic type, and often not as good. Both are reactive. A locked rear axle on a 2WD vehicle will get you into more trouble than get you out of. If you anticipate a slippery condition and lock the differential, you lose much of your directional control: the vehicle will want to drive according to the friction at the rear wheels, despite what you're doing with the steering wheel. An open differential may allow the wheel with the least friction to slip, but will not try to "steer" the front end. If the rear is slippery, the front is likely, as well. For this reason, specific to 2WD vehicles, I recommend a limited slip differential. As a matter of simplicity, the G80 option (RPO code for locking rear differential) for your 1983 truck was a limited slip differential. Factory replacement aftermarket parts are still available, as well as a few aftermarket systems. The Gov-Lock differentials began in model year 1995, replacing limited slip to this day as an OEM option.

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Thank you for good explanation. My truck is all original so if I can solve the problem "getting stuck on flat surface just because one wheel on ice" with an all GM solution Im very happy. On another forum I have read the Gov-Lock differentials have a bad reputation. Are the G80 using same technical principles as the Gov-Lock?

I have now learned more and understand that my question above is irrelevant so forget that one. I like the explanation you wrote earlier and I now think that best for me is to buy what Eaton call their Mlocker. What is your comment to that standpoint?

I had a 54 Ford 1/2 ton got stuck real easy. I bolted an 1 1/4 in thick scraper cutting edge across the back of the bed adding about 300 lbs to the back and worked very well.

After that i had a 74 Chevy ton with 1200 16/5s on the rear. I snow it was tough getting around. On it I used an old 40 gallon water tank held against the tail gate by a 2 x 8 across the rear wheel wells. Got around rel good with that setup and tank could be drained and removed when not needed.

Add some weight to the rear to get around better.

I have had exactly that idea. Just cut a 1 inch steel plate same profile as box bed to add weight. Farmer solution I will call it.

Plus get the best winter tires you can.
Living in the Yukon with 6 months of potential winter conditions i have found that Bridgestone Blizzakk's are the best tire i have ever used here since i started driving legally in 1979.
But you can not use them once the weather warms up as they are so soft they literally will disappear over the use of one summer.

Adding weight to the rear end helps, but that still leaves an open diff. with one-wheel-drive.

"G80" is simply GM's RPO (Regular Production Option) code that specifies the vehicle was originally equipped with a "locking differential", whatever that may be at the time of production. It could mean limited slip on earlier models, or a locker on later models.

My understanding of Eaton's Mlocker is, it's similar to (or the same) as is offered on OEM GM vehicles since 1995, but an aftermarket label offering. It's a good system, but engagement can be a bit harsh. It requires a wheel speed differential of about 100 RPM's (which isn't all that much) before it engages, and when it does, it's a positive lock, and doesn't unlock until all differential loading is relieved for a bit of time and distance traveled. I've had several trucks with it and it works very well, but like I said, engagement can be harsh if traction on one wheel is very good, when the slipping wheel locks in. On a positive note, this locker doesn't require any additional maintenance or additives, compared to a limited slip option which requires more frequent service, and a friction modifier additive for proper clutch operation.

Still, in my experience and opinion, for most all 2WD applications, limited slip is the better performance option.

Once again, thanks for sharing experience. And education: Noe I have the full understanding of what G80 stands for. limited slip options sounds like a smother operation, but also a need for service (change of friction rings? tighten springs?). What LSD models do you judge as the best option.

I'm sure there are many good options, but my preference is Auburn. I have their cone-type LSD in my 85 Blazer (12 bolt axle), and it's worked very well. Regular service is all that's been required of it. They now also offer electric lockers, and a LSD with electric lock (best of both worlds). I recommend upgrading the differential cover to one with a drain (and magnetic plug) to make servicing easier, regardless of your choice.

I have now come to the conclusion that LSD type is preferable given my use of the truck, daily driving, and work on the farm, the only off-road is out in the field with hay to the animals. With 2 WD just some slippery surfaces and mild leaning ground can cause trouble when the box is empty. So now I'm leaning towards an Eaton TrueTrac. Seems to be robust design, maintains free, automatic function, no extra air- or electrical installation and the truck still behaves as with an open differential on the road and while going around in the city. I am happy to hear comments on this idea.
Still confused but on a higher level

I've had a couple of trucks with the G80, including my current 2001 GMC 2500HD 4x4. The G80 works great. It takes a few revolutions of the slipping wheel/tire before the other wheel/tire engages, so you need to go easy during the lockup phase. The G80 uses a centrifugal mechanism that prevents lockup from occurring above about 20-mph. Impatient/stuck drivers can tear up a G80 (or likely any limited slip/locking differential).

I also have an Eaton Posi in my Lil Red truck, which also has a 14-bolt SF. That diff has held onto some impressive burnouts, and lots of 1/4-mile/dyno runs. I am careful though to give the diff some easy wheel slip to get it locked before going hard.

I had the G80 in the original 10 bolt that was in my Tahoe, and I really liked it as well. I then purchased a used SF 14 bolt to replace it. It also has the G80, but unfortunately it has some broken parts. Finding repair parts for a reasonable price has been difficult. I may have to replace the whole assembly with a Detroit Locker or other version.

Casey