help with guage install

[biker Wayne]

I just ordered a guage package and THE JUICE from JK. I know the pyro and boost sensors are supposed to be easy to install, but I REALLY don't want to screw up the maninfold when tapping the threads. Anybody in the northern Illinois area willing to lend an experienced helping hand to a diesel newbie to install the probes for the boost and EGT? If you are, email me at wacsmith@aol.com and we can work out logistics. I live in Lake Zurich.
Thanks!!!

[sonofagun]

biker,

Hope you get a local helper but the job sounds a lot more intimidating in thought than practice. Have the engine running, drill a small pilot hole first, then your final hole. Drill both very slowly. Keep your tap lubricated and only tap as much material as you need to to get the fitting in. (The taps get bigger as you go deeper). It took me more time to get the inner fender liner off than to do the drill and tap.

Good luck,
Bob

[HD-Nate]

GO SLOW!!!!

Coating your drill bit and your tap with heavy grease will keep the majority of the shavings out of the manifold and into the grease.

When you tap, back your tap out 1/8 turn for every 1/2 turn you make. This keeps the shavings small and less likely to fall into the manifold.

Good luck, its not that difficult :cool:

[Kennedy]

I have a guy in Orfordville WI (near Madison) who is a STRONGLY recommended technician.

[SparkyTX]

I did mine in the last few days. I am kinda like you. I can build motors and have basically built my off-raod beast of a machine by hand. But working on a brand new $40k machine that I rely on everyday was another story!

I followed the basic rules and guidelines every spec'd out. Here are some pointers for you...

1. For the boost sensor/tube, disconnect the blue hose going from the intercooler to the "downspout" intake the intake. Stuff a CLEAN shop rag down into the downspout past where you plan to drill. I stuffed another one in the blue hose just to make sure everything stayed clean. Then drill a small pilot hole and the final hole. I did all this drilling with my shop vac running and sucking up any shavings. Then when I carefully pulled the rags, I ran the shop vac some more.

2. On the exhaust gauage, I started a small pilot hole with the engine off. I did just enough to keep the bit steady if the engine vibrated any while idling. Then fired it up and driled the rest of the way through. I then stepped up to a larger bit and then a third time with the final size. I coated the bits with 3-in-1 oil several times throughout the process. Don't force the cuts, let the drill do the work. The slower it goes, the smaller the shavings.

3. Huge pointer - BUY GOOD QUALITY DRILL BITS. I learned this when building my off-road truck. I had a cheap bit one time that took several minutes and lots of muscle to go through my frame. With a good bit, it took no mucle and only seconds. The bits I bought were $5 and $10 bits for this job. But each drilled through their respective surfaces in seconds. Makes a HUGE difference.

4. Take your time. When drilling and tapping, take your time. It won't take long for that part, so don't rush it.

5. One last tip I can give is to make sure you have plenty of room for your drill before starting. Sound stupid? Not really. On the intake/boost, this isn't an issue. On the exhaust manifold, it can be. There is only so much room between the manifold and the metal supports. My drill with the small pilot bit and the intermediate bit fit no problem. But the final bit was larger (diameter and length) and I had to use one of my other drills due to the shank size. That combo was almost too long to fit with the proper angle. This was something I hadn't considered before I drilled that pilot hole. Just something to keep in mind.

By far, most of your time will be spent connecting all the wiring and everything, not drilling/tapping. I spent maybe 20 minutes drilling and tapping. I spent another 3 hours doing all the wiring. I am very pleased with how mine turned out.

P.S. I also have limited time sometimes and didn't want to do the whole project at once. So, when I bought the threaded nipple for the boost tube and the taps and bits for the pyro installation, I also bought a brass plug (for the pyro) and a brass cap (for the nipple). I proceeded on the first eveing to remove the inner fender, drill and tap the holes. I installed the plug in the exhaust manifold and the cap on the nipple in the intake downspout. I then came back the second eveing and spent all my effort running the wires, tapping into the power circuits, and making everything pretty.

[DieselDixon]

I did mine a couple of weeks ago, the boost was a no brainier, but that manifold was the one that worried me. I have no fear of drilling and tapping, do that all the time. But when it is on a $43k truck and with the potential of causing damage to the turbo I was a bit worried.

Anyway, these guys on the BB here were exactly correct. I drilled it with the motor running and the chips just fly right out at you, I even took there advice to wear safety glasses and now I know why, the chips rocket out at you. The only thing I would have done different was wore a long sleeve shirt, because one got me in the arm. Never the less, took me all of about an hour from start to finish and that was including taking the fender well out. Follow HD-Nates tapping method and you will be fine.