View Full Version : Oil Line Leak Fixed
Fixed my leaking oil lines ( Crimp area ).
Got 2 ; 3/4 in " hose clamps " ( look like small exhaust pipe clamps, ) Installed in center of crimp area. Kept re-torqing the nuts, leaks stopped after about 1000 miles/4-5 re-torques.
NAPA has 2 types, 1 for hoses and 1 for exhaust.
Exhaust clamps cost 2 bucks more ( 3 vs 5 $ ).
curmudge1
06-20-2005, 06:36
How hard/easy was this? I expect it would be more difficult on my 94 Blazer, less room maybe?
Did you cut off the old crimp metal first, like the article?
Thanks for sharing.
No: to cut off crimps ... Just put clamps over the crimp..
5 min job, lots of room....
it's the " exhaust type clamp ( threaded metal " u " with the double folded over bar that nuts tighten against ) It may take some time to seat the hose, i had to re-torque several times, slowly stopped leaking..
tom.mcinerney
06-26-2005, 21:26
Thanks, RJ. This promising lead will inspire some testing.
markrinker
06-27-2005, 04:11
GM 100% warranteed my leaking oil cooler hoses purchased during last years motor swap.
Since we were dropping a '98 motor into a '94 truck, we opted to go with the larger '98 OEM oil cooler and lines, which then started leaking at the crimps after only ~30K of service.
My reason for posting this: The new lines from GM look much better, and are from a different supplier, according to the GM parts man.
curmudge1
06-27-2005, 07:15
The shop that replaced my water pump last fall and my fuel lines last August, somewhere in the process they told me that my oil cooler lines should be replaced.
I just looked at them (I think) this weekend, in the front driver's side area, right? They don't look like they are leaking there. Do they also have crimp on connections at the other end? Where is that? I believe my small oil leak is more rearward. I recall that the GM dealer that did my IP a couple of years ago, fixed/replaced the oil filter mount/connection or somesuch. Thanks.
MTTwister
07-04-2005, 06:43
I also go the 3/4" clamps for my oil lines. However, mine measure 3/4" and that's waht I need for the id of the clamp. Will have to see if they make the next size larger. There are 4 crimps on mine - 2 up next to the block. RJ, did you put 4 clamps on?
2 days into my water pump upgrade ( still not all back together)- this has been a real PITA. Course I'm trying to do other things while I'm in there, such as clean the radiators, fix oil lines - try and get the PMD off the pump - failed attempt there - bummer.
Had to pull the radiator with the lower hose attached, as the factory put the clamp on with the tabs toward the passenger side, couldn't get to it to loosen it. Need to drill a drain hole for the radiator in the support before that goes back in, etc.
By the Way - which way and how much do you have to turn that phony plastic drain cock on the rad to open it up? I didn't want to put pliers to it and bust it off. So I drained it from the loser hose. ( EDIT never mind - figured out the rad drain cock while I had in on the garage floor. Counter clockwise to open - a pin controls how far yo can twist it.)
'Course, the factory put the lower hose clamp on the water pump behind the vacuum pump pulley, so there was interference there - would never be able to change the loser hose without pulling everything out.
Anyhoo, RJ, did the 3/4' clamps Just fit, or did you have to massage the fittings to get them on? Appreciate any input. Off to see the Parade.
[ 07-05-2005, 11:03 AM: Message edited by: MTTwister ]
The crimp area was 3/4 inch od. hope i did't screw up.. will check it again.
anyway single clamp each crimp at center of
crimp, kept tightening every few days untill seated. seems to be holding, last time i checked
just a few small drops of oil on one line.
Note, these are NOT band clamps, look exactly like
exhaust clamps...
MTTwister
07-05-2005, 11:07
RJ - My Crimp area is 3/4" od also, but the 3/4" clamps ( yep the exhaust clamp type) have 3/32 Less Inside clearance that 3/4 in . hmmm that would make it.. 21/32, vs 24/32 needed. I'm thinking I could squeeze the Crimp to get it on, and then tighten it down. I'm thinking anything bigger wouldn't provide the 360 compression "we're" looking for.
by the way - Did you do the other 2 crimps up by the block?
Thanks for responding.
Sorry for delayed reply, just back from a 6 week
" walk about " in the NE,
If I rember right , the clamps were a little snug getting on the first time...
Have not PM'd the engine after 4K miles in last 6 weeks, but I did not see any oil drips on my
'look unders '
Only put clamps on front crimps, back crimps were not leaking. Will let you know how they look when I do the oil change...
Note: Really like the TCC lock up switch,
takes a while to get use to manuelly switching and shifting, but really pulls good in 2nd and 3rd.
MTTwister
08-19-2005, 06:55
Welcome back RJ. I got 4 more 3/4" clamps from NAPA and they were much thinner "bolt" and fit right up to the Oil Cooler crimp area. This time, each one came in a separate box, versus the "fatter" ones that were in a bag in their parts area. ( all were labeled as 3/4") Anyway - the 2 "fat" ones went on the Trans cooler crimps, and I put the 4 "thinner" ones on the Engine Oil cooler crimps, front and rear.
Next I'm looking at GMC Hauler's trans line pressure mod set-up. See link in his sig.
Did the oil change and underside inspection.
Oil cooler lines dry, no leaks.....Took a while for the oil to squeeze out of the covering.
Underside of truck looks much better,
Still a little oil on the filter adapter,
but most of the mess back there appears to have been from the oil cooler lines..
Inspected oil lines, Leaks are fixed,
Clamps work.... Nice clean eng, except filter adapter. I guess thats next...
RJ-
How did you hook up your TCC lockup switch ??
tom.mcinerney
10-10-2005, 06:37
RJ--
I understand the rationale for maintaining the OEM 90* adapter.......but one of the first things i learned about these vehicles is that the adapters are known for blowing the oring seals, occassionally catastrophically. So if you don't 'lose' it , renew the seals routinely . They're not cheap (probably viton).
tom mac, Hard decesion to leave the 90 deg adapter, I Do a lot of ' boondock' travel.
Figured if I blew a remote line or some other
problem with the remote, I could drop the remote adapter and install the OEM filter. ? Now should I worry about blowing the adapter seal.
( did try to get 'O' rings from GM, they said they did not stock the part ?????
Scooby: 50 OHM resister between the tran temp sensor and ground , via a switch.
Search the forum, if not there I will get the ' pins ' for you, ( 96 and newer ) not sure of older function..
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