Stainless steel bleeder screw

[Cornell]

My new truck will be here on Monday March 15,2004. I had to wait only six weeks !!!!! :D My question is. Should I replace OEM plastic bleeder with a aftermarket satinless steel one, Are there problems with the plastic screws ? :eek:

[Kennedy]

Use a 1/2" nut driver and I doubt it will ever fail you...

[JEBar]

I had the head of one snap off not long after buying my truck. Replaced it with a stainless and haven't had any further problems.

Jim

[Brnorm54]

Go with the stainless- they are great. No worries about the plastic then.

[dmaxalliTech]

I have two stainless bleeder screws for sale. Dont like them myself. You cant just crack them loose and bleed it like the plastic ones. You have to about remove it all the way and then you risk the chance of dropping it into oblivion. Use the proper size screwdriver or a nut driver and your problems will be gone.

[Modified]

I plan to stay with the plastic bleeder screw. If I cross thread or break it, a new bleeder cost about three bucks. If you cross thread your filter housing with a SS bleeder, it'll cost you about $500 to replace the housing.
I always carry spare bleeders. I'm more afraid of dropping and loosing a bleeder, than breaking one. I'm still using my original after 2 1/2 years, and I don't think I'll need to replace it anytime soon.
Like JK said, use a nutdriver to reduce chance of damaging.

[DmaxMaverick]

I have entertained the idea of installing an elbow and valve onto the housing. Just do away with the screw all together. It sure would be a lot less messy when it comes to bleeding if a hose is also used. May even work for the drain, as well.

Yup. Just talked myself into it. Off to the hardware store tomorrow. Think I'll do the same thing with the Mega (I have to remove the headlamp fixture to bleed it, and it's messy, too).

[jbplock]

FWIW, another bleeding option is through the Schrader valve test port (near the alternator) using a modified Kent Moore gauge. The process I used yesterday to change my pre-filter and OEM was as follows:

http://thumb2.webshots.com/s/thumb4/6/56/82/95465682wVUGYc_th.jpg
Modified Gauge (http://community.webshots.com/photo/73314886/95465682wVUGYc)

http://thumb0.webshots.com/s/thumb4/6/61/60/95466160coWkql_th.jpg
Bleeding (http://community.webshots.com/photo/73314886/95466160coWkql)

1. Connect modified Kent Moore Gauge and fill two bottles with clean fuel using the lift pump. (Use remote push button (http://community.webshots.com/photo/77018086/78007431FZIwJH) switch near the headlight to operate lift pump)

2. Drain and replace FM100 pre filter (http://community.webshots.com/photo/77018086/77109358ruBwiy). Use hose pinch pliers (http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200002083/) on input hose to keep tank from draining and pre-fill new filter with clean fuel. (I also added a clear drain bowl (http://www.reliableindustries.com/inv/stan/partinfo.php?search_for=29899) to the filter)

3. Remove Riv-nuts and wheel well liner. Crack OEM bleeder, disconnect WIF sensor, drain, and remove OEM filter with rubber strap wrench. Pre-fill OEM filter with clean fuel and install. Close bleeder.

4. Crack mega filter bleeder and drain. Close bleeder.

5. Bleed all three filters through the Schrader valve. Start engine and check/verify pressure is 0-1 psi.

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