chuntag95
06-19-2003, 10:46
Stick a fork in me, I'm DONE! :D Well it's working anyway. I finished about 1:45 this morning.
I changed out my glycerin gauge for the same one, but unfilled. You see about a 1 PSI swing from vibration that was not there with the filled gauge. I set up on zero PSIG or as close to bouncing on either side as I could. I was really surprised on how much I had to close the needle valve. I am about a turn or turn and a half from closed to get zero. Righty higher pressure, lefty lower pressure. At 1 a.m. in the morning you have to repeat some things over and over.
I removed my bleeder pump and used the power going to the switch to power the pump via a relay to the oil pressure switch and post switch to the pump directly. Both worked first time! I put a weather pack connector on for the pump, and the line to the alternator/switch where it hooks to the relay harness. I just used ring terminals for the OP switch, but they are soldered and sealed with liquid electrical tape. I used heat shrink or the liquid electrical tape on every connector. I have a plug for the relay, so if it goes bad, I won't be soldering under the truck. I soldered every connection but 2 crimp connectors. I could have used a weatherpack, but I just heat shrinked and gooed them. I will probably go back and wrap the relay down to the wires with the good electrical tape just to be safe. I need to get back under tonight to take pictures. Don't know what you will see for the wiring since I put loom on EVERYTHING. I put 1" on the hoses (didn't have any 3/4" at the depot) and 1/2" on the return line hose. It didn't really fit all the way around, but will protect it from the shields and other lines. For the wires, I used 3/8 from the pump to the relay and OP switch and 1/2 in that clustered area going up to my weatherpack connection to go to the front. I used the 3/8 to go across the engine and tied everything up neatly. I might have to put a brace on the open end of my box, but am undecided still.
I had to use a cheater pipe to break loose the plug on the oil housing. I guess they have the same gorilla put those in when he puts on the filter. I busted one knuckle, smacked my forehead with a Crescent wrench and almost cut the tip of my pinky off with a pair of Sear Handy Cuts. :eek: The darn things came open when I moved them and I reached back over my head without looking. :rolleyes: I knew it quick. Used the electrical tape and paper towel method so I could keep going.
The wrench slipped off the OP switch and I now have a 1" x 1/2" bruise in the middle of my forehead. Did not want the thing to leak since I had to use 2 adapters. I had 1/8 to 1/2, 1/8 to 1/4, 1/4 to 3/8, 3/8 to 1/2 but no 1/8 to 3/8. Figures huh? :rolleyes:
I had a little bit of air when I got to work, but that was probably residual from all the work. I have gone back to the hard line, which was open and not in use for the last couple of weeks, so not unexpected. I am smelling diesel, but I don't see a leak. I will pull my cover and check the backside of the filter when I get home tonight. I will check my gauge as well as I did not put sealant on it now that I think of it.
I will remove my air trap and the gauge block post Mega next weekend if I go air free and stabilize. I haven't figured out how or where to mount the gauge on the Mega bleed port. I would still like to put a transducer for my SPA on to watch pressure, but it won't tell as much when you have the pump going. I figured I'd pull the fuse and get a baseline so I can periodically check my restriction due to the filters. I have to carry 3 filters now. A small pre, the medium OEM and the MEGA. I bet I have some clean fuel now. ;)
I do have a schematic in Excel of my wiring so I have a lift pump and a bleeder pump with relay protection. I can send it to anyone that is going down this path.
Hey Mac, I WON! I WON! I WON! tongue.gif
I changed out my glycerin gauge for the same one, but unfilled. You see about a 1 PSI swing from vibration that was not there with the filled gauge. I set up on zero PSIG or as close to bouncing on either side as I could. I was really surprised on how much I had to close the needle valve. I am about a turn or turn and a half from closed to get zero. Righty higher pressure, lefty lower pressure. At 1 a.m. in the morning you have to repeat some things over and over.
I removed my bleeder pump and used the power going to the switch to power the pump via a relay to the oil pressure switch and post switch to the pump directly. Both worked first time! I put a weather pack connector on for the pump, and the line to the alternator/switch where it hooks to the relay harness. I just used ring terminals for the OP switch, but they are soldered and sealed with liquid electrical tape. I used heat shrink or the liquid electrical tape on every connector. I have a plug for the relay, so if it goes bad, I won't be soldering under the truck. I soldered every connection but 2 crimp connectors. I could have used a weatherpack, but I just heat shrinked and gooed them. I will probably go back and wrap the relay down to the wires with the good electrical tape just to be safe. I need to get back under tonight to take pictures. Don't know what you will see for the wiring since I put loom on EVERYTHING. I put 1" on the hoses (didn't have any 3/4" at the depot) and 1/2" on the return line hose. It didn't really fit all the way around, but will protect it from the shields and other lines. For the wires, I used 3/8 from the pump to the relay and OP switch and 1/2 in that clustered area going up to my weatherpack connection to go to the front. I used the 3/8 to go across the engine and tied everything up neatly. I might have to put a brace on the open end of my box, but am undecided still.
I had to use a cheater pipe to break loose the plug on the oil housing. I guess they have the same gorilla put those in when he puts on the filter. I busted one knuckle, smacked my forehead with a Crescent wrench and almost cut the tip of my pinky off with a pair of Sear Handy Cuts. :eek: The darn things came open when I moved them and I reached back over my head without looking. :rolleyes: I knew it quick. Used the electrical tape and paper towel method so I could keep going.
The wrench slipped off the OP switch and I now have a 1" x 1/2" bruise in the middle of my forehead. Did not want the thing to leak since I had to use 2 adapters. I had 1/8 to 1/2, 1/8 to 1/4, 1/4 to 3/8, 3/8 to 1/2 but no 1/8 to 3/8. Figures huh? :rolleyes:
I had a little bit of air when I got to work, but that was probably residual from all the work. I have gone back to the hard line, which was open and not in use for the last couple of weeks, so not unexpected. I am smelling diesel, but I don't see a leak. I will pull my cover and check the backside of the filter when I get home tonight. I will check my gauge as well as I did not put sealant on it now that I think of it.
I will remove my air trap and the gauge block post Mega next weekend if I go air free and stabilize. I haven't figured out how or where to mount the gauge on the Mega bleed port. I would still like to put a transducer for my SPA on to watch pressure, but it won't tell as much when you have the pump going. I figured I'd pull the fuse and get a baseline so I can periodically check my restriction due to the filters. I have to carry 3 filters now. A small pre, the medium OEM and the MEGA. I bet I have some clean fuel now. ;)
I do have a schematic in Excel of my wiring so I have a lift pump and a bleeder pump with relay protection. I can send it to anyone that is going down this path.
Hey Mac, I WON! I WON! I WON! tongue.gif