IT LIVES !! almost ....

[K10ANDY]

welll i did the head gasket and it seems to have all come out well . Except it wont stay running . starts then stalls out . wont even stay running with the acc pedal down . vrrroommm choke ... it has a new lift pump fuel is of good quality . i suppose either i have a major air leak or bad IP >? -Andy :confused:

[ 04-04-2005, 03:24 PM: Message edited by: 6-2 CHUCKVEE ]

[john8662]

How did you prime the system before the initial start? To diagnose air getting into the system problem you can install a piece of 1/4" clear tubing off the return on the injection pump. See what kind air you're seeing, or if your not seeing fuel. Other things it could be, pinched return line causing return pressure to be high, electrical problems with the solenoid on the injection pump.

[K10ANDY]

i loosened all the injector lines with the gps out and the pink wire off and cranked it .

[ 04-04-2005, 02:35 PM: Message edited by: 6-2 CHUCKVEE ]

[john8662]

For priming, you'll want the pink wire connected and the injection lines at the injectors loose. Otherwise you'll get no fuel from the injetion pump to purge the sytem. removing the pink wire is a way to keep the pump from pumping fuel or sucking air when you're changing out that fuel filter. Good luck!

[K10ANDY]

problem is it was doing this before all the trouble . :mad:

[john8662]

Could be a bad injection pump, the earlier injection pump had a rubber flex ring in them that would deteriorate over time and harden from the diesel fuel, and break. The symptoms you're giving point to this. The only way to fix this is to tear down the pump and have an EID installed, basically similar to the flex ring, but no rubber like band that will deteriorate and is inclosed. Will this engine rev up one you get it started, or will it just baraly run until it stalls?

Has this pump been rebuilt? If not, or are unsure, look for a small tag that will be held onto the IP top cover, its a small metal tag with an E on it. The earlier pumps (84 included) that got rebuild got the E tag on them after the rebuild, signifying that the pump had the EID installed in it.

[K10ANDY]

it will start if the acc is held half way and then it will rev up and die . i dont know if it has been rebuilt . how much does a good quality IP rebuild cost and where to get ? thanks -Andy

[john8662]

Diesel Injection Service www.dieselpage.com (http://www.dieselpage.com)

Accurate Diesel Injection www.accuratediesel.com (http://www.accuratediesel.com)

I've dealt with both, Accurate Diesel will be the lower priced, I haven't had anything build by these people, but others here have. I have sent a pump to them to be tested, they are fast an answer email.

You're looking at about 300 for a pump rebuild, possibly less.

[K10ANDY]

it has a rebuild tag but no " E " . ill snap some pics of it later today .

[dieselbegreat]

I got a great deal on a reman pump at www.mwfi.com. (http://www.mwfi.com.) It looked absolutely brand new and it had some over-fuel dialed in so it makes lots of black smoke when you need the power. I think it was only $275 or so. I bought an old pump on ebay for $25 and sent that in as a core and kept my old pump which was working pretty good.

[K10ANDY]

well the i bled the shinkies out of it and it still wont run . vrooom die . any other things that running it dry could have damaged ? will it run with no vaccum ?

[Peter J. Bierman]

Yes it will run without vacuum.
Do you keep current on the pink wire?
Seems to me that a bad pump would not start at all.
What if your ignition switch is bad, you could lose power to the pump the moment you let go the switch from start to run possition.
Might be worth a try?

Only other thing I can think off is that the internal vanepump inside the IP is bad, but with a good liftpump it would do more then only vroom once.

Good luck, Peter

[BobND]

If it repeatedly starts and then dies, suspect a restriction in the housing pressure contol valve on top of the IP, or a restricted fuel return line.

If the fuel return system is restricted, it will act that way. When the fuel pump housing becomes overpressurized, the plungers will stay retracted, and will not take in a charge of fuel, and then inject it. This is a FACT of the operation of the Stanadyne pumps. With the return line clogged, THEY WILL SHUT DOWN.

Disconnect the return line from the IP, and then remove THE WHOLE FITTING, down to the bare pump top, and then try to start the engine. Have a fire extinguisher handy, and (if it does run), don't let it run very long, as a trickle of fuel will be coming out of the pump, and be blown around by the pump. You don't want a hot engine with fuel being splattered on it!

If it DOES run in this manner, you need to find the restriction in the fuel return system, which could be anything from the valve/fitting screwed into the top of the pump, to a clogged line, or a pinched line, or even a bad valve for switching fuel tanks (if equipped with 2 tanks).

Often, after the plastic governor damper ring has failed, and broken into black chunks of plasticy/rubbery stuff, some pieces of that find their way into the housing pressure valve, or to a bend or fitting in the return line, setting off this whole scenario.

[K10ANDY]

THANKS GUYS ILL CHECK IT ~ !

[K10ANDY]

YES ! now that i have fuel all over the place it runs ! err i mean got fuell all over the place checking for return line restricions . It runs with out the check valve deally whacker so i am happy ! now to fix it .....