View Full Version : Methods to Increase Mileage
Does anybody have any proven methods they've used to increase fuel mileage? I realize the best one is to have a light foot on the accelerator pedal, but am curious as to K&N/Amsoil filters, synthetic oils, straight piping, TranSyn vs. Dexron III, additives, etc.
I hope this doesn't turn into an advertisement for different products as much as a discussion as what seems to have worked best for each individual.
chuntag95
11-25-2002, 15:07
Well, I have tried about everything in your list. To be honest, the best thing for me has been getting the leaks fixed around my injector cup seals. I started using Amsoil modifier and cetane boost in the last month. That appears to have gained a mile to the gallon based on the 2 tanks so far. I have two other tanks that were discounted due to being in the shop or idling for long periods (hours) while working on my high idle and remote start. I am afraid my other data will be void due to the leaks. I have a lifetime average of 16 mpg, which includes everything. My lowest has been 14 and the highest 23. The second highest was 20, and that was pre leak fix. Also, I am only at 17.5k miles and I have been told that 24k seems to be where the mileage starts to improve. My driving is mostly stop and go commute with highway about once a month for a trip. Not any towing yet.
I look forward to see what everyone else says.
What indication did you have of injector cup seal leak? Symptoms? I too am getting approximately 16 per gallon with the same truck....
chuntag95
11-25-2002, 16:09
I was loosing coolant. It started out very slow. I lost about a quart in 7.5K miles. Then next quart left in 5k and finally 2.5 when I took it in. I saw no dips, no real performance issues, just decreasing mileage.
I keep very detailed records on mileage. I have how many gallons for each tank along with miles on that tank and hours on the engine. The overall average has been hovering around 16 most of it's life. My father in law, who has a extended cab with an 8 ft bed, gets 18-19, but doesn't do much but highway and putting around job sights.
Considering my old 1/2 ton only got 17-17.5 on the highway, I really can't complain. I would like to get into the 17-18 range, but I don't pound the pedal much, so not a lot of help expected from the Helium ballons tied to the boot. tongue.gif
I saw a reduction in tranny temp when I went to TranSyn of about 10-20 degrees. Truck seemed to run smoother when I went to synthetic oil and smoother still when I started using additives. I have some Stanadyne that I am going to start using and see how it does vs. the Amsoil. It's one bottle for both like the Total Power so I won't have to mix at the pump. The Cetane boost from Amsoil will eat through the plastic bottle the modifier comes in (found that out the hard way :eek: ). I have not engine or tranny mods, just fluids except the airbox and Amsoil filter. I think the exhaust will be my next step for me. I must admit, I like playing with the mods and charting the performance and have done the same thing on the wifes truck. Just put headers on hers and that helped it out a bunch for power. Still waiting on fuel mileage (if she keeps her foot out of it).
hdmax(mike)
11-25-2002, 16:16
I would think that any additives added for better fuel mileage would not be cost effective.
If you spend $4.00 extra per fill up and increase mpg by only 1-2 you have lost money.
Other then driving with a light foot, and without the tailgate, there is no cost effective way of getting better mileage.
If everything helped as addvertised we would all be getting 35-40 mpg. and have 1000 hp 2500# torque :D
chuntag95
11-25-2002, 16:38
Mike,
I agree completely that addatives are a loosing proposition if you are only doing it for fuel mileage. The smoother running, added lubricant, lower gel temp, etc. etc. etc. are why I use it. If I get a mile or two, it just reduces the cost for the other benifits. Besides, if you are making better power, what do you do? Use it, which leads to a heavy foot which reduces your mileage, blah, blah, blah. :rolleyes: It's a never ending circle. :D
$.04-$.06 per gallon is NOT hard to make up...
hey chungtag95(chris) drop me a email dvgamble@bellsouth.net got some questions about injector cup seals..........thanks dave
CanadaKev
11-25-2002, 19:35
XTOCAK,
What diameter tires are you running?
Increase in tire size/Decrease in rpm.
For instance:
With OEM's @ 70 mph you are turning 2200 rpm.
With a 33" tire @ 70 mph you are turning 2000 rmp.
Thus, reduce revs, reduce fuel consumption. ;)
You just have to remember, that if you don't recalibrate your speedo it will read low by approx. 9% ;)
Kev
FROM WHAT IVE READ ON THIS SITE,1 change over to amsoil air filter, 2 KEEP AIR IN TIRES AROUND 60-65(ALITTLE STIFF BUT THE MPG DOES GO UP,3KEEP THE RPM S AT (2) you should be 65-69 mph,and 4 which I HAVE NOT DONE MYSELF BECAUSE OF MY MILAGE CHANGE OVER TO SYNTH. OIL,I GET 17.5- 20 MPG AND I ONLY HAVE 10,000 MILES,HOPE TO DO BETTER AS THE MILES GO UP.
Tire size on my truck is LT245-75R16.
All miles are highway miles with minimum daily trips being 16 miles one way @ 60 mph and every weekend I put over 350 miles on it @ 65 mph.
Purchased new in September, have over 6700 miles on it. Running Chevron Delo 400 15W40. Standard OEM air & oil filter that was changed at 1000 miles and then at 5000 miles. Also changed the Allison filter at 5000 miles.
XTO,
The Power Services Diesel Clean (gray stuff) gives me at least 1/2 mpg in town--don't know how much on the highway. The Juice seems to be good for another 1/2 mpg on level 4.
However, my biggest boost to mileage comes when I don't drag race every car at every light.........
Blaine
Using your brakes is a major source of wasted fuel. That's what actually turns the kinetic energy of the truck into heat.
chuntag95
11-26-2002, 10:12
I have to ask, just because I saw it. Has anyone used the Fitch Fuel Catalyst or the Magnetic fuel boss for the fuel line? They sound to good to be true, so I would think that they are, but does anyone know for sure? :confused:
ChevysRus
11-26-2002, 11:35
I just filled up last night, 39.5 gallons/691.3 miles and I drove it on that tank mixed freeway and city driving (freeway = 70-80 mph and city = 30-40 mph). I would guess maybe 60% freeway. Average 17.5 mpg. Not bad given the way I drive it. Best I have ever done on a 850 mile trip is 18.9 again at 70-80 mph. Towing with about 9K is around 13-14 mpg again at 65-75 mph.
It just goes and goes and with the 45 gallon tank I have to stop more often to take a leak than to fill the tank LOL. I have no mods at all to the engine. TranSynd and this is my first oil change on Delvac Mobil 1 Synthetic. Also I noted it is burning more oil on this change than on the Dino oil. 3K and down 1 qt. already. I had hoped to go to 5K changes with the synthetic, but maybe not. On the Dino oil I went 3K on changes with maybe a pint of oil consumption. Will use the Delvac synthetic one more time and see what happens, if it is burning the synthetic faster than the Dino for some reason I may go back to the Dino.
I understand the best mileage on the DMAX may not be achieveable by most of us as it comes at 55 MPH and is reportedly consistantly better than 20 mpg if you can keep it at 55mph. Mission Impossible IMHO!!!!! LOL
Anyway, I didn't buy this puppie to get better mileage, that is a side benefit, so crank up the POT meter (modern terminology for Pedal to the Metal)and just enjoy (keep one eye on the rear view and the other eye on the road ahead)
If fuel prices drop $0.10 a gallon it is all a mute point anyway ha ha ha
chuntag95
11-26-2002, 11:44
ChevysRus,
A quart in 3k? :eek: That sounds like too much to me. I have gone to 7500 and lost maybe a pint. I know my father in law doesn't burn any either. GM would probably tell you that's normal :rolleyes: but .....
As far as burning or losing more on synthetic, that makes some sense. If the synthetic reduces friction over dino, then if there is a way to escape, then it can escape faster. Have you looked for leaks?
Rebel_Horseman
11-26-2002, 12:00
Here's a question for ya'll. I went up to northeast MS this weekend to get a load of hay. Up there, diesel is about $1.27 a gallon (this is the bonnies mind you). When I got back to Baton Rouge I noticed fuel prices are anywhere from $1.35 to $1.45 a gallon. What gives? In my mind, with all the refiners in this area, and Exxon/Mobil's huge refinery in town, wouldn't prices be cheaper then in the boonies where it would cost more to truck the fuel in?
Reb [><]
I agree that I didn't purchase this truck for the mileage as I needed a towing machine and this thing does that well. I just wanted to get individual experiences on all the different "upgrades" to see if any one or two things stood out.
I did check my air pressure last night as it was the first time since purchasing the truck, and found all four tires at 45 PSI. The pillar sticker said 60 on the front and 80 on the rears....yep, pumped 'em up and they make for a stiffer ride but will see if it helps the mileage.
TSimpler
11-27-2002, 19:14
I have a DMAX and have been able to get 21+MPG (No Trailer) on the highway at 75mph. I run a K&N air filter and a Edge Juice chip ($800 investment) set to level 4. I think the Juice chip made a big change and I dont romp on the little right pedel when tring to get good milage.
I just ran from Eastern Oklahoma to Albuquerque NM at 90mph with a 6500lb trailer and got 13.5
Trent owner of the "Tire burning diesel "O" death"
chuntag95 (Chris) ..... I agree with you. I change
my dino oil at 4000 miles and oil loss is next to
nothing.
XTOCAK ...... When I picked up my truck from the
dealer, all 6 tires were at 45 psi. They might
run them low to give what appears to be a soft
ride???? With my camper on, I run 65 psi in the front
and 75 psi in the rears.
We notice the biggest change when the airfilter starts to get dirty.Air preassure in your tires is the second one.3rd and final stream line the truck,no running boards and so on,the less turblance or drag the better.We even suck down our electric over hydralic airhitches when we are on the road.To get the height lower and closer to the roof of the truck.If all of the above is just rite we see about 1.5m/gal gain
Later Tom.
I switched to Mobil 1 Delvac and I think I am having to add oil more often too. I used to use Rotella for breakin etc. I am not 100% sure, as I hadn't kept total track of additions since I hardly ever had to add with Rotella and now with Delvac, I have to add sometimes, especially after trailer hauling trips. Anecdotal, and not exact at that, but maybe there IS a trend here...
I truly do not think that "syn" oil should be used until the motor has "almost fully" broken in. The dino oil will let the rings and other parts "break-in" properly while the synthetic will not. Most of our tucks will reach the simi-break-in mark by 25k. ---- Now, if syn gets to the "smaller" places don't ya think that means it "will" find ways out via~exhust? :rolleyes:
It's getting cold, so remember that your block heater does not warm the oil, only the water. ;)
Burner~~~~~~~
With respect to synthetics and break-in, Mobil and Amsoil disagree with you, as well as Chevrolet, Porsche, and others.
Mobil even says that synthetic is not more slippery than mineral oils of the same viscosity.
Back to Mileage Increase Methods smile.gif
What companies make those plastic or fiberglass "Nosecones" that go on top of the front of an enclosed trailer (Pace carhauler in my case)? Which company is "Best"? Do they work?
Does anybody make a practical one for the REAR of small carhauler trailers, since the vacuum BEHIND the trailer is the biggest source of MPG loss/aerodynamic drag?
I could put one on front of trailer...and another BEHIND trailer; maybe 2 behind the trailer, one on top of the other, so it cleans up the whole rear end at least somewhat. Might be better than nothing, wonder how much? How to make the rear "Drawbridge" loading door useable, how to move the rear "nosecones" out of the way easily?
I lose about 3mpg towing enclosed trailer vs. open.
I searched internet and found no gold on this...
X-wing,
Perhaps you need something to "collaspe" the air and avoid the vortex. I would speak to someone that races cars. Maybe you could get and Idea from a C-130? Thinking about that .... maybe you could "drag" off the suction by increasing the lenght of the top of the trailer?
ZFMax,
The properties of Mobil do not make it "more slick" than dino. The strength of the oil lay in it's ability to stay clean longer, stay lucent at extream temps and inter smaller spaces. However, it does dot carry heavy dirt particals well. - If you have had a Porshee before... read the old manual on "break-in" miles. The old ones would break in around 5 to 10k. Now, the new P's break-in is around 25k (really 30k) with mobil from the factory. The rings today are different than just 10 years ago.
-I'll get off my soapbox. ----
What we are looking for is fuel milage, yes? Run the dino oil for 20k and then do the switch to syn. You engine will "break-in" sooner giving you the "better" fuel milage and then the syn will carry you way, way, way past the 100k mark.
Burner
Xwing,
Do not have personal knowledge if they increase fuel milage. However know someone who tried them several years ago and did not think it helped any, so removed it. I agree w/previous comment on airplane airflow design as a good source of ideas you could try.
Key concept I used in purchasing enclosed trailer was the use of a large radius on the leading edges ( top and two sides) to reduce air drag. Their is a significat reduction in air drag by increasing the radious at the front edges. I used 18" radious curves. The radious reduces the air wake the trailer makes as it passes throught air.
An sort of example of this is the cab design of tractor trailer trucks. The flat nose design which have very little radious pushes you around more when passing you while towing vs new aero design trucks. The flat nose is pushing a lot bigger air wake out in front of the truck.
As far as the rear of trailer no ideas?
good luck,
Diesel Freak
11-28-2002, 22:43
The radius corners make a HUGE difference. Sometime if you look at some of the semi trailers, mainly furniture movers or the enclosed car haulers you'll see what I mean. BMW contracts with a guy near me, his setup is very slick, on the rear of his trailers he has full height, full width piece of fiberglass that has the corners radiused 18" - 24" or so and the rest of it is flat. That "cone" swings out of the way and the normal ramp door will then open. If you have any fiberglass shops around, I'm sure you can have them make a full size cone for the rear that splits in the middle and swings open to each side. It will make a big difference.
Jerry
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