View Full Version : OilGuard Bypass Filter Installation
Pictures of my OilGuard bypass filter installation can be viewed at the following link.
Oil Guard Bypass Install (http://community.webshots.com/album/65003591xTSYrR)
I'll also post a summary of the installation for anyone that is interested in this filter (hopefully sometime this weekend).
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[ 12-01-2003, 06:31 PM: Message edited by: jbplock ]
Nice install.....
What is the actual filter media made off??
Was or is the High Oil Pressure generated by the Duramax all right with this what looks like a fiber media other than paper??
Any pressure lost??
MAC
I like it ! Wish the fuel filter install was this easy. :D
Mackin,
Oil pressure before and after the Oilguard install is the same: 30psi idle hot; 60-65 psi 2000 rpm hot; 90+ psi cold idle. Filter is wound string (looks like cotton?) and (if I remember correctly) Mark Meddock at Oilguard told me its designed to flow best with 40-70 psi oil pressure.
I was also concerned about oil pressure being present at the 3/8 port on the bottom of the oil filter/cooler assy. When I removed the plug and looked inside the hole, I noticed what looked like a bypass valve. Taking a closer look at the hole on the filter side, I could see a valve that would open under pressure. When the valve opens it bypasses some of the oil flow from the full flow filter. At this point I was concerned that if this was a high-pressure bypass, there would be no pressure on the 3/8 port and it therefore couldn't be used for a feed to the bypass filter. The valve didn't seem to have a lot of resistance if I pushed on it, but I decided it would be prudent to test the pressure on the 3/8 port before going any further. I then hooked up a mechanical pressure gauge to the port and first checked the pressure at cold idle and found it to be about 90 PSI, which also agreed with the OEM gauge. This indicated that the valve opened when the engine was cold but I was still not sure about the valve being open when the oil was hot and pressure was lower. Next I took the truck for a ride to warm the oil and found that I still had pressure (at the 3/8 port) and it agreed with the OEM gauge (30 psi idle and 60-65 psi at 1800-2000 rpm). At this point I knew that there was enough pressure to get oil flowing through the bypass and that it would not affect the normal operating pressure, since the oilguiard has a 0.040 inch orifice on its output. I'm still not sure what the purpose of this valve is (?). It appears that the original purpose of the 3/8 plug is to provide service access to this valve. Does anyone know it's purpose in diverting some of the pre-filtered oil back inside the oil filter adapter/cooler ? Is it part of the oil cooler function? Anyway, it provides a good place to tap oil flow for a bypass filter (The bypass filter gets hot quickly so know it's flowing oil). By the way the port on the top of the adapter (1/2inch?) would also work as it too provides access to pressurized oil from the filter/cooler assy. It is a little harder to get to. I unsuccessfully tried to open this port using both a 20-inch breaker bar and my (cheap)
Bill,
I too noticed the 3/8" plug had what appears to be a pressure relief valve behind it. I have an idea of what it's for but didn't want to post it untill I was sure. Noticed it from inside the filter base when the filt. was removed. It shouldn't be a problem though. I also like the idea of tapping flow upstream of the full flow filt. because it allows the anti drain back valve on the full flow filt to keep all circuits primed better. I know it sounds radical but sometime my truck sits for a week or two at a time. I still plan to identify the service of as many of these filter base ports at my close coming oil change. I will post the pics. for all to see for future reference. :D
Bill,
Nice installation on the bypass filter.
I have been following your bypass filter discussions with some interest. Installing one has always been on my list of "things to do". My concern has been with the filter oil return path. There did not seem to be a clean way of doing this. Seeing your pictures though has cleared up some of my concerns though. Once you install the stainless braided hose it should be really secure.
A Question - have you noticed any additional cab noise with the filter assembly mounted to the floor pan? Some people who initially installed the Amsoil dual remote bypass filter assembly to the floor pan had to relocate the filter to a frame mounted location due to noise being generated in the cab (the Amsoil unit of course is flowing substantially more oil since it includes the full flow filter).
Anyway, thanks for documenting your installation. I have printed out your pictures. It looks like a good spring/summer project when time frees up from work.
Regards,
Alan
You'd have to look it up in a print somewhere, but it is likely an oil cooler bypass valve. The 6.5's had a filter and a cooler bypass valve in the block. The Dmax moved the filter bypass into the filter.
Thanks to everyone for your feedback!
Allan,
No additional noise in the cab that I have noticed…. I guess I'm glad I wasn't aware of the problem others had reported or it may have been deterred me from mounting the filter the way I did…
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The following is a summary of the OilGuard bypass filter installation on my 2003 Duramax.
Soon after I bought my truck in October (02) I started looking for a Duramax oil bypass filter solution. I was sold on the benefits of oil bypass filtration from my experience using a 2 micron (nominal Beta=2) Baldwin B-50 filter with a full flow “sandwich” adapter (purchased from Kennedy Diesel) on my 98 K3500 6.5 TD. Before and after oil analysis on my 98 with the B-50, showed measurable reductions in SI and wear metal concentrations. So, I wanted the same type of protection for my new truck as well. My first thought was to just continue using the B-50. I contacted Baldwin Service Engineer Travis Winberg and asked him if the B-50 would work for the Duramax. His response was as follows:
“The burst pressure of the B50 is not as high as the B1441 (Duramax Full Flow Filter), therefore I
do not recommend the use of the B50 on this application due to the increased operating pressure.”
With the B-50 eliminated, I started looking for alternatives. My criteria for selecting a filter was the following:
1. Continue using Baldwin B1441 full flow filters on the OEM mount (B1441’s are 8 Micron nominal, 23 micron absolute which is very good for a full-flow)
2. Bypass Filter must be of high quality construction sufficient to withstand the high Duramax oil pressures (100 psi).
3. Bypass Filter installation must be reversible. – No physical modifications to the engine (i.e. like adding a separate oil return fitting to the oil pan)
4. Reasonably priced replacement bypass filter elements (Initially I plan to continue 3-4kmi oil changes and will not be doing extended drains).
5. Secure and reliable filter installation – especially feed/return hose quality and location.
With these criteria in my mind, I researched several alternative solutions and initially I couldn’t find one I felt comfortable with. None of the filters I found had a documented Duramax installation (except the AMSOIL BMK17, which I ruled out because it required the use of an AMSOIL SDF Full Flow filter on a dual-remote mount). The filter that seemed to come closest to my criteria was the OilGuard but initially I wasn’t comfortable with their method of connecting the bypass output line to the oil pan drain fitting. About this time I contacted John Kennedy who mentioned that he was working on a Duramax bypass solution. Knowing John’s reputation for great service and quality products, I initially decided to just wait for his solution. But in the mean time (as I was laying awake at night thinking about all those terrible 2-15 micron wear particles in my oil … and fuel) , I called OilGuard to see if they could refer me to someone who had installed their product on a Duramax. I talked to Mark Meddock who said they had sold OilGuards to Duramax owners but had not heard back from them about how they were being installed. Then Mark made me an offer I couldn’t refuse. They would give me a filter in exchange for documenting the installation on my truck. I agreed and Mark sent me a filter and installation kit to try.
My installation notes and observations are as follows:
For the discussion that follows refer to pictures posted at the following link:
2003 Duramax OilGuard Installation (http://community.webshots.com/album/65003591xTSYrR)
1. Filter Description.
When I first received the filter I was immediately impressed with the quality of it’s design and construction. Its description is outlined as follows:
(a) Filter canister is made from heavy gauge drawn steel which screws onto to a black anodized, machined head assembly that seals with a large O-ring.
(b) The head assembly has three connections: feed, return and sample (drain).
(c) The return port has a 0.040-inch orifice to restrict flow
(d) Adjustable iradited-mounting bracket.
(e) Filter element consists of string (cotton?) wound on a plastic spool. The element screws on to the base and is sealed with an O-ring.
2. Filter Assembly Mounting.
First step was to find an “easy” place to mount the filter. The location of the filter and hoses was to be secure and out of harms way. The location chosen (see picture) is directly under the drivers feet next to the frame. By removing the trim molding and using the floor rib indentations as a reference point, it was confirmed that holes could be safely drilled through the floor. A small pilot hole was drilled from the bottom. The filter bracket was then used as template to drill two 3/8 holes. The filter was then mounted using 3/8 stainless bolts, lock nuts and fender washers. Large fender washers were used to reinforce the mount and minimize flexing of the sheet metal floor. Adding a piece of flat stock would also work but it may cause a noticeable “bump” on the carpet. The washers yielded a solid mount but with only a slight amount of flex. Permatex (#2) was used to seal around the holes. On the bottom side 3 washers were used between floor and the bracket. The permatex also served to hold the washers in place while the filter bracket was placed over the bolts. The orientation of the filter is such that the optional oil sample drain fitting is on the bottom. In addition to providing a convenient way to get an oil sample, this drain cock fitting can also be used to drain the filter before changing the element.
3. Filter Feed Connection
Next, the 3/8 plug from the bottom side of the oil filter adapter (see pictures) was removed by clamping some vise grips on a hex L-wrench. (On a 4WD there is not much clearance to fit a ratchet/socket hex bit). With the plug out one could see what looked like a bypass valve at the bottom of the hole. At this point an Oil Pressure test was performed (as described in a previous post) to verify that there was adequate pressure on this port to feed the filter. The test confirmed that pressure agreed with the OEM gauge under all conditions (engine temp and rpm). The need for a 90 deg elbow to connect the feed hose to the filter was also realized as there is only 2
Bill,
Much thanks for the information on the filter install. It will come in handy for those of us that have the same goal in mind. :D :D
pinehill
03-02-2003, 12:21
Bill,
That was an absolutely superb installation description -- comprehensive, well organized, and extremely well written! You certainly fulfilled your obligation to the Oilguard folks, and then some. If I can ever persuade myself to give up my Fumoto valve, your efforts will be very helpful. Thanks.
[ 03-02-2003: Message edited by: pinehill ]</p>
A-bear, Pinehill,
Thanks for the kind words...
I have also been thinking about restoring the fumoto valve (just because they’re so neat). It wouldn't be that difficult to have a "thicker" oil pan fitting fabricated (same as the oilguard) but with a threaded hole for the fumoto valve. Before OilGuard added their Duramax pan fitting, I also bought a Fumoto ADL106 14mm M/F adapter to see if it could be modified for use a bypass return to the pan. The thought was to drill & tap a 1/8 NPT hole in the adapter. It’s made of brass and is thick enough to drill and tap, but it would require using the short AD106 adapter to get clearance for the JIC fitting near the pan. (ADL106). It would be a little bit of a “kludge” so I think for now I’ll try my next oil change by just disconnecting the JIC (flare swivel) and see how that works. … My next priority is an additional fuel filter!
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[ 03-03-2003: Message edited by: jbplock ]</p>
An update on noise in the cab
[quote]Originally posted by jbplock:
[b] An update on noise in the cab
tophog,
Thanks for the feedback, I’m glad you can make use of the install info.
Mine is still mounted to the floor and I’ve decided there isn’t any additional noise (at least I can't notice it). I think you’ll be fine installing to the floor. However I think Tommy (a bear) mounted his to the frame in some fashion (Tommy you out there?)
I currently have 4500 miles on the oil since installing the filter and the oil on the dipstick looks as clean as if you dipped it into a new quart of oil. I’ll be doing an oil change soon and I plan to send two samples for testing (one to Oil Guard and one to Oil Anlalyzers) … will post results.
I also just bought a “#4 JIC swivel nut run tee” to put in line with the return line at the oil pan fitting. The idea is to just remove a cap on the tee for oil changes instead of disconnecting the line. (I would still prefer to have a custom fitting made up that would allow use of my now retired Fumoto valve … maybe someday). I’ll post some pics of the tee if it works (maybe next weekend – this weekend I’m in the middle of installing a Lift pump and (3rd) pre filter).
:D
[ 06-14-2003, 06:38 AM: Message edited by: jbplock ]
jpblock, glad to hear the floor install doesn't appear to generate noise. I got mine mounted last night using same location as you. Have to find the (2) straight #4 JIC to 1/4" NPTF for the head unit so hoses will go straight in vice using the supplied 90 degree elbows.
OilGuard threw in 1 free sample kit so I'm planning to do one around 5K once I get the kit installed and oil changed. Out of curiosity, what oil are you running?
Post OEM fuel filter is next on my list ... and will probably do the Racor setup once I find someone who's done the install, created a shopping list and instructions with pictures such as you have for the OilGuard. I'm just looking for plug/play install that works and requires no maint. other then filter changes.
Bill,
Just got home from company buisness. I mounted my filter with a home maid bracket coming off the front cross member. Will get pics when I get under there to change the oil.
I installed the OilGuard setup this afternoon. All went well, no leaks (yet), etc. The only thing I'm not particularly fond of is the anticipated oil change. Removing the plug from the oil pan adapter to drain oil will be messy as the hole sits directly over the skid plate. Guess I could remove to change oil but something I would rather avoid.
jbplock, as you mentioned it sure would be nice to come up with some type of quick drain setup ... something like the oil sample valve on head with with a nipple or something to attach a hose to.
Tophog, Glad to hear your install went well!
I'm currently running AMSOIL 15w40 Synthetic but I plan to switch to DELVAC-1 after I use up two changes worth of Rotella 5w40 Synthetic I have on the shelf. The AMSOIL is good oil but I want to stay with an API cerified oil while the engine is under warranty. smile.gif
I guess I was a little premature on the install going well. This morning I decided to check the hoses, etc. and found the 90 degree fitting up by the oil filter was leaking. Not bad but enough to throw some oil underneath the truck. Used thread sealer on all joints so I was a little upset ... hate leaks! Checked hose and it was tight ... ended up removing hose from fitting and tighted fitting another turn ... guess I didn't tighten enough. Went for short ride and doesn't appear to be leaking but will check again tomorrow after I drive to work.
Tophog,
I had trouble with that fitting too. In the process of getting it to seal I learned there is a spec for tightning tapered pipe threads. In the Parker catalog it says for NPT sizes up to 3/4 its 2-3 turns after finger tight. smile.gif
[ 06-16-2003, 04:15 AM: Message edited by: jbplock ]
I actually was aware of the 2-3 turns after hand tight from your previous post ... guess I didn't count when tightening ... I went ahead and tightened another turn and the adapter got real tight ... drove 100 miles today and no leaks smile.gif but experienced a weird problem on the way home.
Will post separate thread if I don't find any info ... long story short, truck felt like it hesitated going down freeway then went low on power ... all the way home it felt like I had to mash on the throttle a lot more for the same power ... really freaked me out. Truck only has 2K miles on it. No leaks anywhere, no fault codes, seems to idle fine ... perhaps it was my imagination?
Seems unlikely at only 2000 miles, but a plugged fuel filter might cause the truck to act that way.
After a lot of debate and research I have decided to get an Oilguard. I have been using Delvac1 and changing every 5000 miles. I did an analysis for kicks and it came back very good. I don't like wasting good oil (especially at $55 per change just for the oil), but I also realize the limits of a single full flow filter. The oil is still good but the contaminants can cause wear. This system seems easy to install, simple in design and effective. I also realized that if I double my oil change interval(go to 10,000 miles) this system will pay for itself in 2 years!(at 20,000 miles a year) and that is a VERY conservative oil change interval for this system.
Thank you jbplock, your description in this thread will prove to be very helpful when I do the install. Anyone interested in this product just look at the website www.oilguard.com. (http://www.oilguard.com.) It is very informative. I spoke with Mark Meddock at Oilguard and asked him a few questions. He informed me that they have a new adapter for the Duramax application that makes the supply connection to the Oilguard filter much easier than before.
I also decided to make my own filter mount bracket. I didn't want to drill into the floor so I made a template for a bracket that will mount to the frame right behind the main oil filter. It will only require drilling existing holes in the frame a little bigger. The template is going to a welder tomorrow. I will let you know how it works out when I am all done. The advantage of the bracket is 2 fold. I will be able to mount the filter closer to the regular oil filter(shorter hoses) and I will be able to mount it upright which will allow me to prefill the filter at each oil change. Wish me luck!!! SPICER
Originally posted by SPICER:
I spoke with Mark Meddock at Oilguard and asked him a few questions. He informed me that they have a new adapter for the Duramax application that makes the supply connection to the Oilguard filter much easier than before...
spicer,
Your installation bracket sounds great! :cool: I'm also curious about the new supply side adapter... Does it still connect to the 3/8 NPT port on the bottom of the Oil Filter adapter?
The only issue I have with my current OilGuard setup (http://community.webshots.com/album/65003591xTSYrR) is the custom oil pan return fitting. The fitting is well made and provides a convenient way to return the filtered oil to the pan but, it's NOT convenient when changing the oil. You have to remove either the 1/8 plug or disconnect the JIC fitting on the return hose, which dumps oil on the frame cross member. I tried using a #4 JIC run tee on the end of the return hose with a JIC cap on the tee for draining, but it was painfully slow. At my next oil change I'll be replacing the OilGuard pan fitting with a Weatherhead 14mm x JIC-4 straight fitting that will connect to the existing JIC return line using a JIC elbow. Disconnecting the JIC fitting for oil changes will allow draining straight out toward the back of the truck (I'll post pictures if it works). Tommy's return to the oil filler cap is probably the best method since he was able to keep his Fumoto valve on the pan. If I had it to do over I would go with Tommy's method.
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jbplock, the new adapter does not use the 3/8 port. Mark said it was hard to remove and a very tight fit on the 4WD's. This is an aircraft grade aluminum adapter which screws onto the oil filter mount. It is about 3/4-1 inch thick and acts like a spacer between the mount and the full flow filter. It has 4 ports that are all capped except for 1 with the elbow to the supply line. Any port can be used allowing you to pick the best one, then the others are capped. Mark says the install is easier and the hose for the supply is subsequently shorter. It is an option at $20. Sounded good to me. Will let you know. I am headed to the welder now! :D SPICER
Dave Lewis
11-19-2003, 08:55
Sounds like a great place to mount the oil pressure switch for a lift pump. I have my filter but have not installed it yet. I'll be giving them a call.
Originally posted by SPICER:
This is an aircraft grade aluminum adapter which screws onto the oil filter mount. It is about 3/4-1 inch thick and acts like a spacer between the mount and the full flow filter.... Sounds good! http://forum.thedieselpage.com/ubb/icons/icon14.gif Mark is correct about the 3/8 plug being hard to remove and a tight fit with 4WD trucks. The elbow fitting (http://community.webshots.com/photo/65003591/65005642hlJEYv) I used is working fine but the adapter would be easier to install.
The spacer/adapter may also provide another location to place some rare earth Neodymium-Iron-Boron (NdFeB) super magnets (http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin/edatcat/WMSstore.pl?user_action=list&category=Magnets_and_Magnetism%3BPermanent_Magnets ) directly in the oil flow similar to the Allison setup.
Originally posted by Dave Lewis:
Sounds like a great place to mount the oil pressure switch for a lift pump.. Yes! Definitely... I mounted mine with a Tee in the OilGuard feed (http://community.webshots.com/photo/77018086/78007074AFyClF) but using the new adapter would be easier ... maybe a good place for an oil temp sender as well...
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[ 11-19-2003, 08:34 AM: Message edited by: jbplock ]
I recently changed the element in my OilGuard bypass filter after 20k miles of use. At the last change some neodymium magnets were placed inside the canister. (http://community.webshots.com/photo/65003591/229822313paMlbM) Oil was Delvac-1 and changed at 5k miles intervals along with the full flow filter (Baldwin B1441).
http://thumb8.webshots.com/t/42/43/1/40/78/328614078YgAXLI_th.jpg
OilGuard Filter Cross section (http://community.webshots.com/photo/65003591/328614078YgAXLI)
Note the center of the strings are black with soot. Could this indicate the oil is following a spiral path through individual strings from the outer to inner layer of the filter?
Also, the magnets were found with a layer of ferrous sludge on them as shown -looks like they help
Seth McKinney
04-23-2005, 10:30
Cool -- I recently installed mine. I got a magnet from Kennedy for the full flow filter -- that should do the same -- although your idea is a little cheaper smile.gif
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