View Full Version : Steering Box Alignment
DA BIG ONE
11-06-2005, 22:39
I have read on several sites that the variable rate GM steering boxes must be aligned as in steering shaft must be dead center and steering linkage must be equal lenght for box to work properly. If it is not aligned steering will wander the distance the steering shaft is off center.
Now I wonder if all those boxes I've gone through is because of a__ ho__s not installing box correctly?
Any of you have input on this, or?
stingthieves
11-07-2005, 04:06
I don't know how you could NOT install it correctly as the Pitman Arm to Sector Shaft is keyed and so is the Steering Wheel hub to that shaft. About all you could do is connect the rag joint 180 out. I will say that it is difficult to find a good rebuilt steering box - I just installed the third on my son's truck and now have a good one! ( thats common) You don't really know till you have a few miles on it.
DA BIG ONE
11-07-2005, 11:13
Originally posted by stingthieves:
I don't know how you could NOT install it correctly as the Pitman Arm to Sector Shaft is keyed and so is the Steering Wheel hub to that shaft. About all you could do is connect the rag joint 180 out. I will say that it is difficult to find a good rebuilt steering box - I just installed the third on my son's truck and now have a good one! ( thats common) You don't really know till you have a few miles on it. I've been wondering this, while the box and pitman can be aligned, if the tierods are not equal length then the problem presents itself because of some valves in the steering box.
I notice when going down flat road steering wheel is centered, but w/crowned road it tends to be cocked to the right about an inch no matter which way crown goes left or right.
I've read the GM variable rate box has been a nightmare for many with some shops even suggesting pulling fuse to sensor, tried that only to find it is tied into my security system.
I'm getting drift when big trucks pass and have to correct steering which feels loose when this happens.
Hmmm,
I think it has something to do with geometry of idler arm linkage???
If tie rod lenghts are not even then the idler arm swings through a different arc that will not counteract (or work with) the pitman arm arc or something like that. ???
When worn the idler arm assembly on these truck seems to add wander sporadically depending on suspension height/travel.
A little aggrivating ... I tend to get a pull to the right consistently even though toe in and alignment are within specs, brakes normal, and tires balanced air pressure.
My caster is slightly out but theoretically caster does not effect "pull". ???
DA BIG ONE
11-07-2005, 19:52
Steering linkage, idler (2 sections), pitman is new GM w/little milage and steering box is factory remanufactured w/about 10k on it. Below is link to one site that explains this issue better than I can.
http://www.cvsteering.com/corvette_steering_tech_tips.htm
Just read post, My NAPA steering box was bad from rebuilder,,,, Play in bottom... As I can tell,
all rebuilds are'CArdone' no matter what auto store.. I had several bought into the store before I excepted replacement number 2, Put a vise crips on bottom of shaft and look for play,,,,
I suspect Cardone only rebuils pressure side, and bushings, Next steering box comes from a 4x4
supplier,,,
jspringator
11-25-2005, 13:27
I have a light "click" close to center upon a slight turn. Is this a worn out box?
DA BIG ONE
11-25-2005, 16:07
Originally posted by James Springate:
I have a light "click" close to center upon a slight turn. Is this a worn out box? I really don't know, but I can say this, "I wish there was a overkill box I could install and be done with it!"
Have you replaced the PUMP....?
My 93 had the same problem, on crowned roads,
was low pressure at low rpm without
enough tire speed to fight the crown...
DA BIG ONE
11-27-2005, 09:01
Originally posted by rjwest:
Have you replaced the PUMP....?
My 93 had the same problem, on crowned roads,
was low pressure at low rpm without
enough tire speed to fight the crown... Have not considered the pump because the hydro boost works ok and it drives my hydro winch w/o any problems, it's possable it could not be up to the task.
I did find that the variable rate steering box has it lowest ratio dead center and as it goes from center the steering rate goes to higher ratio, giving creditability to the steering wheel and box having to be aligned dead center for the steering to work properly, or the wheel will feel like it has play for the distance it is not centered.
Then there is that sensor on the steering column that is intergrated into the steering control, I wonder what it actually does. Someone had suggested to remove its fuse but the fuse is for the daytime driving lights and anti theft system too.
MTTwister
11-27-2005, 09:15
DA BIG ONE and RJ...
Is this variable rate steering in the '96 models? I pulled the Daytime running light fuse a long time ago. Am I missing the pleasures of the variable rate steering? Thanks.
I did find that the variable rate steering box has it lowest ratio dead center and as it goes from center the steering rate goes to higher ratio, giving creditability to the steering wheel and box having to be aligned dead center for the steering to work properly, or the wheel will feel like it has play for the distance it is not centered.
Then there is that sensor on the steering column that is intergrated into the steering control, I wonder what it actually does. Someone had suggested to remove its fuse but the fuse is for the daytime driving lights and anti theft system too.
My caster is slightly out but theoretically caster does not effect "pull". ???
Maybe in theory,, but it does affect pulling to one side or the other if it's not the same on both sides.
Think of it this way, Racers like positive Caster, Alot! It makes steering more stable, less twitchy at speed.
Now if one side is more stable than the other, what happens? The car will drift to one side! Towards the side with More caster.
More real world proof.
Lift a truck with a four link front suspension. A quality lift kit, will relocate the lower pickup point on the chassis side down and forward, or it will come with a longer lower arm.
Yes it will add to bind in the drive line Ujoints, but, it'll sure be easier to drive down the road. The trick is to find a kit engineered to reduce drivline angles while keeping enough caster. Cheap lift kits only use taller srings, That allows the front axle to roll forward and loose positive caster. The result going down the road is a rig that does not track well, you always have to keep a firm hand on the wheel to correct wandering.
It's late, I hope that makes sense.
DA BIG ONE
11-28-2005, 01:56
Who here knows anything about the steering sensor on the steering column and it's effect +/- on the steering?
Thanks DBO for bringing this subject up.
I have always wondered about the poor steering on my 99 K2500 Suburban. I have been to many alignment shops trying to get rid of the symptoms you describe and have the wheel properly centered. After a while I began to to think it was a feature of the 2500 as nothing I could do would change the steering. I even had a dealer rep tell me that my expectations were too high and kept reminding me that I was driving a truck not a sports car.
My tires are about done so I'll be getting a new alignment here shortly. I am going to try settings that another member suggested running as close to 0 in toe and camber as possible for tire longevity.
I'll also poke around underneath to see if there is a reference point or alignment mark on the steering box. I would be very happy if I could solve this issue.
DA BIG ONE
11-28-2005, 11:42
Originally posted by MJEasly:
Thanks DBO for bringing this subject up.
I have always wondered about the poor steering on my 99 K2500 Suburban. I have been to many alignment shops trying to get rid of the symptoms you describe and have the wheel properly centered. After a while I began to to think it was a feature of the 2500 as nothing I could do would change the steering. I even had a dealer rep tell me that my expectations were too high and kept reminding me that I was driving a truck not a sports car.
My tires are about done so I'll be getting a new alignment here shortly. I am going to try settings that another member suggested running as close to 0 in toe and camber as possible for tire longevity.
I'll also poke around underneath to see if there is a reference point or alignment mark on the steering box. I would be very happy if I could solve this issue. Truck aside, the wandering is not safe nor is it designed into steering and is a PITA. It also appears no one knows what exactly that steering sensor on the steering column does.
I had someone suggest they can align the front end so there will be no wandering but tires will wear and mpg will suffer.
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