Sputter Sputter!!

[maxedbowtie]

I'm a long time listener, but am finally pushing the mic button.

I just got my '03 2500HD D/A Crew a couple of weeks ago and am going through the initial shakedown.

Had a 'thud' in the driveline somewhere, which they attributed to a dry yoke on the trans. Greased up and we'll see what happens there. I have a 1500 with the now infamous slip yoke replacement and am wondering if anyone has had the same issue on the 2500's.

My other issue is the other day after starting and running for a few minutes I push on the go pedal (normally) and I get a sputter sputter sputter to the point of popping a check engine light. The code was a higher than normal rail pressure. I picked up the truck tonight from the dealer and gave it a little juice and the sputter is still there. It is a feeling of being out of fuel, but runs fine when letting off the throttle. The other stickler is that it seems to only do it after being totally cold. After warming up and driving for a bit it doesn't do it.

Naturally they ran a diag test, drove it, and got nothing but 'a-ok'.

Any ideas???

Thanks!!

-Jeff

[sdaver]

I know its sounds premature.......check the fuel filter(make the dealer do it) I assume giving it a little juice was just mashin the throttle :D dave........ps wecome to the site

[Kennedy]

Take it easy till it warms up a bit. It may just be a phase that it needs to work through. I've had a similar experience once or twice myself. Some have blamed modules, but I've seen it happen on stock trucks as well as modified.

Where are you located? Federal or CA/CT/ME emissions?

[ 02-24-2003: Message edited by: kennedy ]</p>

[maxedbowtie]

I'm in CA, with all the extra baggage that carries.

I'm not stomping on the go pedal by any means for it to happen. Maybe a 1/4 push at the most...

It does seem that something it just not warm enough, as it appears to clear up once the temps get up a bit. The odd thing is that it just started happening after 1,400 miles. I have also had a couple of instances of a rough idle, dropping to very low rpms and firing back up, for a second or two after being hot (don't know if this is related).

[maxedbowtie]

I should also say that this is my first experience w/a diesel, so I'm still climbing the learning curve on what is and isn't 'normal'...

[Kennedy]

CA emissions enters in another BIG variable: EGR! If things aren't switching properly...

[maxedbowtie]

Still digging on the problem. The dealer didn't come up with a solution the first time around and it didn't get fixed.

It is definitely a cold problem. I was up at Tahoe this weekend (probably mid 20's) and it would cough and choke like a sick pig until it got warmed up. It has to be something with the emmissions.

The next odd one was pulling out to go home I discovered that after popping another check engine light it wouldn't let me go beyond 1900-2000 rpms!! It's a good thing I had a motorhome in front of me going up the pass or I would have been shot for going so slow! Max speed was 64 at 1900rpm on I5 which I've never experienced before ;) . It was almost like the computer was shutting it down. I could push the pedal to the floor and it would hit 2k and just shut off. With that there was no downshifting out of OD as it would push it over the 2k mark...

I made it about 120 miles on that and shut it down to fuel up and it reset and ran like nothing had ever happened.

It this a normal computer function to shut it down like that???

Will be in to the Chevy doc again in the next day or two.

[chuntag95]

What you are describing sounds just like when I leave my high idle switch on. Have you added one? Maybe an intermittant ground?

[Kennedy]

It could well be in the rail pressure sensor. An open on this circuit will yield a higher than normal reading.

I guess it would be best if the dealer could look at the freeze frame records to see what the rail psi was at the time of occurrence.

[maxedbowtie]

No high idle switch (100% stock at this point...) and it seems way too predictable to be grounding out.

It is probably getting a false high pressure reading while cold or the extra emissions messing something up, as Mr. Kennedy is suggesting, which caused the system to shut the engine down to prevent further damage at higher rpms. (btw thanks for the responses John! I appreciate your expertise from all your posts I have read over time on here)

I've got an appointment to take it back in on Thurs, so hopefully the latest round of codes thrown off will shed more light.

[maxedbowtie]

Just got a call from the dealer saying they supposedly found my problem after 10hrs of labor hunting for the problem.

Apparently an electrical problem where one pin on a terminal plug was out of the socket.

We, shall see... Thankfully I'm not sweating bullets wondering if they can detect my juice box to deny the warranty (yet ;) )