6.2L update

[Quack_Addict]

Last night was a learning experience for me as I have never disassembled a Diesel before. The engine is the 6.2L "J" code that was in my 87 3/4 ton Suburban when I got it - the previous owner had run it out of oil and it spat several bearings (or pieces of bearings to be more exact) out into the pan. The differences between the SBC's I am use to working on are many - but everything makes sense.

I pulled the intake, water pump, front cover and removed the injector pump drive gear and injector pump. Valve covers came next, then the rocker arms and push rods, then the heads. I am quite impressed with the heads and pistons - now I see how Diesels make the 21 or 23:1 compression!

There is NO cylinder ridge inside the block. There is a slight carbon ring that I can scrape off with my fingernail... so the block is rebuildable in that regard. As a side note, the previous owner told me the truck/engine had 68k miles on it when I took possession. The oil pan has been off since I removed the engine and I left off last night after marking the rod/main caps with a spring loaded center punch. I plan to pull apart the rotating assembly tonight and I'll post another update tomorrow with some casting numbers to hopefully find out what exactly I am working with. I'm figuring a new crank will be required for rebuild; hopefully the block or bearing caps themselves were not injured during the bearing extrusion process.

Is there a special socket required for injectors or will a deep-well 1-3/16" socket work? I was able to get all but one injector out with a wrench.

[Dieselboy]

The injectors use a special 30mm Snap-On socket, but you can probably manage without the triple chrome plated tool. ;) But why pass up the opportunity to own another tool?

[Quack_Addict]

30mm SnapOn socket = $65 for the name, $35 for the socket, right??? ;)

[CleviteKid]

If your engine is out of the truck, the $8 30mm front wheel drive spindle socket from your local chain auto parts store works just fine. I used one for my first diesel rebuild project, then watched EBay for several months until I got a like-new Snap-On for $20.

Dr. Lee :cool:

And you are right, it is impossible to have too many tools. I have my combination wrenches stacked up to 5 deep on the pegboard in the workshop/garage.

[Quack_Addict]

I disassembled the rotating assembly last night. 6 out of the 8 rod bearings had spun; two of the real bad ones were friction welded together. None of the main bearings had spun; looked pretty new actually. The crank is a boat anchor and a pretty heavy one at that. The rods will keep the crank company; damage is visible on all but the 2 that didn't spin bearings.

Now for the good news: Hone marks are still clearly visible in all cylinders and I see absolutely no cracks in the heads (are cracks normally visible on an assembled head or are they typically microfractures that require Magnaflux to find?).

The block casting number is 14022660

The head numbers match and are 14077162

Assuming I want to rebuild the engine and reuse the old pistons, what is a ball park figure on what I should expect to pay for a set of rods, master rebuild kit (bearings, gaskets, seals), rings, oil pan, etc? I have seen 6.2/6.5L rebuild kits on Ebay for a decent price in the past.

[CleviteKid]

Check with TheDieselPage.com advertiser NORTHERN AUTO PARTS (http://www.thedieselpage.com/vendors/NAP.htm) for the rebuild pieces you need. Their prices are competitive, and if you call them on the phone, they will work with you to put together the kit you need.

Dr. Lee :cool:

[CleviteKid]

PS: Are all of you aware that when I have a phrase that is ALL CAPS, IN COLOR (http://www.exponent.com/leaders/bios/lee_swanger.htm), that it is a live link to another web page? All you need to do is put your cursor on the colored link and click for additional information.

Dr. Lee :cool:

[C.K. Piquup]

Click.

[Low_Bridge]

Watch your depth & make sure it's deep enough to clear the top of the injector. I had a 30mm from years ago, but I had to go out & get another. I got it at the chain formerly known as Western Auto. Better yet mabye autozone will loan it to you with their program-

[dieselbegreat]

The Snap-On injector socket is a really handy thing to have around when the motor is in the truck because it has that hex head that you can get a crescent wrench to grip on. Makes getting the #8 injector really easy. (Well, maybe just easier.) ;)

[cubby]

expect a $300.00 + hit on your piston rings :eek: :mad: Then another $500.00 gaskets, head bolts, misc. Then I havn't had to buy one yet but I would expect to pay $300-$400 for your new crank. But before you do anything make sure your main bearing boss's are not cracked!

[NH2112]

Northern Auto Parts sells complete rebuild kits for about $950 - crank, pistons, cam, rings, everything but rods.