View Full Version : Changing fuel filter
imported_
05-03-2002, 12:32
I read the how to on changing the fuel filter but it doesnt state how to get access it. Do you go from top of motor or thru passenger fender wheel.
SalmonExpress
05-03-2002, 13:21
When I changed mine I did it through the hood and the only problem I had was getting the o-ring to seat. I ended up taking the mounting bolts out so I could hold the mount in one hand and the filter in the other to get the o-ring to seat. I have read quite a few people go through the wheel well and the next time I may try that.
Scott
millietom
05-03-2002, 15:11
I took the battery out.
Tom
More Power
05-03-2002, 15:22
I would recommend that everyone learn how to change the filter by leaning over the fender, and not removing anything else. This experience might come in handy if you ever need to change the fuel filter on some dark and lonely road in the middle of nowhere.
The fuel filter was designed to be replaced in this fashion, but changing it by first removing the wheelwell liner is easier.
The upside is that it only needs to be changed about once every two years or 20,000 miles, on average. The GM recommended fuel filter change interval is currently 30,000 miles, but a lot depends on fuel quality.
MP
changed mine today. Second time. Didn't have to remove anything. Used oil filter wrench to loosen. It's right there. Unplug wire connection going to bottom of filter. Remember, after installing new filter, loosen vent screw located on top of housing, and prime (pump) new filter until fuel starts leaking from vent screw.
:rolleyes:
If anyone looking for a fuel filter for their duramax . I found mine at Diesel Injection Service out of Lubbock, Tx. phone no. (806)745-4122.
Part no. F4598, cost $17.31 each plus shipping. smile.gif
Take the battery out! It takes less then 1 min. then changing the fuel filter is a snap.
imported_
05-03-2002, 20:30
Salmon Express, If you fill the O ring grove
with grease the O ring will stay in place
when installing the new filter.
Get used to changing it w/o removing anything else. I carry two extra fuel filters, a large zip-lock bag, strap wrench and 3/4" drive wrachet and a small bucket (to hold the old filter & it's fuel) at all times. As Mr. Murphy (Murphys Law, life edition, updated on a regular basis) has proven you will be late on the way somewhere important when the fuel filter cloggs. When you install it takes a slight upward pressure to get the O-ring into it seat. Good Luck.
Hey Raye...I see you deal in antique tractors. If interested we have a 1939(?) Farmall H. If so post and I will send my # &/or address.
imported_
05-04-2002, 15:13
Luis,Yes I'm interested,but the distance would
be a problem.Where did you find a strap wrench
that would work?I've got one with a small handle,
but can't get enough leverage.I bought a gripper
wrench from Napa,but it mashes the filter before
it starts to turn.
I did mine without removing anything. A little involved but no big deal. I didn't use a plastic bag. I used a flexible paint pail liner but I think next time I'll use the bag. Good idea.
I don't like the idea of disconnencting the battery. I think everything goes back to learn mode doesn't it?
If you disconnect battery, learn mode should not be affected as other battery is still live. I've done it twice without removing anything. Not really a big deal.
Hey guys , I bought a strap wrench from Snap-On Tools.... snapon.com..... has both 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive sockets attached... make changing the oil filter a breeze also... I carry the strap , extra filter and wrench with the Dmax.
DmaxCC6spd
05-06-2002, 08:40
I just changed my fuel filter and have one question. Should anything be put on the o-ring to prevent it from sticking? Of course we oil the gasket on the oil filter, should we do anything on the fuel filter? I saw no mention of this on the Diesel Page article regarding fuel filters. The factory unit was either very tight, or stuck because the o-ring bonded to the filter and the mount. Any thoughts?
SalmonExpress
05-06-2002, 10:29
Thanks Raye, next time I will try that.
Scott
RAYE...Sorry it's taken me so long to get back on site. E-mail is laaranda@olg.com
More Power
05-07-2002, 21:46
As long as you're careful about contamination, oiling the o-rings shouldn't hurt anything, and may help with future filter replacements. However, I suspect the fuel will wash most of the oil from the o-rings, even in the seal-surface areas. Give us a report at your next filter replacement, as to whether it made any difference.
MP
I know this thread is gettin' kinda long, but I wanted to thank everyone for all the great advice. I did my 1st fuel filter change the other day at 5000 miles, and thanks to all of you it went great! My filters arrived from DIS, your advice and the procedure printed from the members page made it all happen. As with everything else so far the factory installed filter was put on by a gorilla! Since my mud flaps are attached to the wheel well lining, I took 310-MAN's advice and removed the battery, made it real easy to get to. A little lube kept the O-ring in place, primed the housing 3-4 times after clean fuel was coming out the bleed port, fired him up first time, ran great, no leaks. So thanks again, all of your excellent advice is what makes this forum so special ... just don't break anything pattin' yourselves on the back ... LOL
Riverholic
05-16-2002, 00:35
I agree with the post before mine. I just changed the fuel filter and it was a snap thanks to you guys. I just popped out the inner wheel liner and it was a breeze. When I got my truck I had a problem with it losing prime. The dealer found that the filter was bad and changed it so this time it was relatively easy to remove. Once again thanks to everybody who post replys to our problems or questions!
I just changed my fuel filter for the first time(8400 miles) I figured it would be easier in the driveway rather than wait 'til I HAD to do it in a parking lot or some lonely road. Thanks to everyone it went well. I didn't remove anything. Used the bag trick, but being a clod I still was able to spill a little fuel on the frame rail. The large o-ring stayed in place no problem. Used a little grease. Used some good upward pressure to get the filter to hold. I then reached up under the fender well skirt to spin the filter on. Primed her up and she fired right up. Died after a few seconds. Couple more pumps on the primer it fired right up.
I only had a strap wrench with a long handle. It made the job a little more difficult than it should have been. Is most everyone using the type of wrench that is used with a ratchet?
On some earlier threads dealing with this subject I remember reading that one or more of the forum's members actually stopping dead in their tracks because of dirty fuel filters and it seemed that it was always in the neighborhood of 25000 miles that this occurred, so even though I have the filter at the ready I will replace it at the reccommended 15000 miles I now have 13000 and she's running strong. I believe that doing it any earlier is a waste of time and money. It is also a lesson I learned right here on this forum. My fuelfilter change will be done at the same time I change my transmission fluid to transynd and Mobil Delvac1 5W-40 synthetic for the engine,again following advice given on the DP forum. Getting everything focused on a 500,000 mile engine. Of course that focus will exclude any High Performance boxes, it tears me up to have to give up all those thrills in order to get longevity. Stu
Stu-- I think your dead- on with the 25,000 mile fuel filter mark..thats when ours sent Alli into limp mode, and we lost all power. Since the replacement, we have had no problems with it. Back to running ligh to light in front of the powerstrokes...
We are going to be doing our fuel filter now at every other oil change, since we change oil at 7500 miles, we will now change the FF at 15000 miles. Shouldn't be too long before we need another one. though if I'm still working on the k5 at that time, it will go to the dealer's and have it done, lack of time!! I just can't figure out how to park them close enough together so I can Wrench on both at the same time LOL smile.gif
Brandy
pinehill
06-04-2002, 21:23
Something to remember is that filter longevity depends on the number of gallons run through the truck, not the miles driven. A truck used mostly for towing at 12 mpg "uses up" its fuel filter much more rapidly than the truck that never tows. So, if 15,000 mi is about right for the non-towing truck getting 18 mpg, then 10,000 mi would be the right number for the truck that does a lot of towing.
DmaxStu,
I didn't mean to set you off with the "waste of time and money" kick. I just wanted to post a quick note and say thanks to everyone for all the info. I am also going to change my fuel filter at 15,000mi on a regular basis. I believe in spending $16 and taking 45 minutes to change the filter for the first time was a good experience and well worth the effort. I have always changed all OEM filters fairly early. You never know what was picked up during the manufacturing process. This is my first diesel. I have always owned big blocks in the past and they all had over 100,000mi when I sold them. All in excellent
shape and I have never had any break downs. So maybe I'm lucky or doing something right, or maybe a little of both!
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