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rockingroofer
07-01-2004, 12:29
I have a 94 silverado since 96 with 250,000 + miles and i seem to be blowing alot of black smoke with no boost .When i move the wastegate actuator by hand there seems to be no resistance. I changed the vacume solenoid and still no resistance So i pulled the rubber hose off the vacume diaphram and held my finger over the hole and there was a little suction and a lot of noise
When checking for vacume at the pod .should there be any noise coming from the vacume pump?

rjschoolcraft
07-01-2004, 14:43
Sounds like your vacuum pump has croaked. Common thing. If you check vacuum ahead of the solenoid, the pump should pull upwards of 25" of Hg at idle. Downstream of the solenoid, the vacuum reading will vary greatly. Should be about 15" Hg at idle.

[ 07-01-2004, 03:04 PM: Message edited by: ronniejoe ]

Marty Lau
07-02-2004, 08:52
I dumped the vacum system. I got a TurboMaster Waste gate controler it's a spring controlled and addjustable. I took off the pump and put a 1993 belt on works good no more vacum problems and reasonable cost.

hump
07-02-2004, 15:56
Is there anything else that uses vacuum besides the wastegate set up? How about egr? I would like to dump the vacuum in favour of the boost controller too.

C.K. Piquup
07-08-2004, 18:55
I had the same question.I believe the vacuum pump is required to operate heat&a/c flaps.Correct?I have a non-wastegated Peninsular turbo and my vacuum pump is going bad.I figure I need to replace it to keep my HVAC operating correctly.Am I right?

norm
07-08-2004, 19:02
My truck (which has no egr) has vacuum only controling turbo. One line to the solenoid and one from there to wastegate. L56 trucks with EGR split the vacuum to also go through those solenoids. The HVAC controls are not vacuum operated like many other vehicles. I do not know about older diesels. Just follow the lines and see where they go.

cudaaa
07-08-2004, 19:04
Hi I have a 95 I went with the turbomaster got rid of the pump! AC and heat works fine! I beleave ac & heat flaps work off a electric motor. How this helps! cudaaa

DA BIG ONE
07-09-2004, 03:09
Anyone know what acc. drive belt would be needed to eliminate the vaccum pump on a 99 6.5td?

norm
07-09-2004, 17:10
Previous thread/post indicated success with belt from '93 on newer trucks with vacuum pump removed.

markrinker
07-09-2004, 17:24
I have the Turbo-Master on both trucks listed below, and have subsequently removed the vacuum pumps and switched to '93 serpentine belts.

My only issue is that belts on both trucks will slip upon startup or idle if the A/C compresser is on. I have developed the habit of never running the A/C at idle, and turning it on only after the rev's are up. No problems engaging then.

Anyone else have this problem? Its exactly the same on both my trucks...

whatnot
07-09-2004, 19:43
Did you leave the vacuum pump bracket on the engine? I made the mistake of taking it off with the pump and leaving it off. I ended up at the side of the road with the AC compressor bolts snapped off.

Frank Ohidy
07-10-2004, 03:32
I'm looking at the Turbo-Master also. Looks like my pump has quit working too. How do you set up the Turbo Master. Do you need a boos gauge to set the relief pressure?

C.K. Piquup
07-10-2004, 08:55
Since I have no use for the vacuum pump,it will not be replaced.So,I can simply remove the pump and switch to the belt for the MFI models(`92/`93),and that`s all there is to it?Maybe mine went bad because it was not running anything.

whatnot
07-10-2004, 09:40
Originally posted by C.K. Piquup:
Since I have no use for the vacuum pump,it will not be replaced.So,I can simply remove the pump and switch to the belt for the MFI models(`92/`93),and that`s all there is to it?Maybe mine went bad because it was not running anything. Yep, that is all you need to do. make sure you just remove the pump and leave the bracket.

C.K. Piquup
07-11-2004, 05:29
"Done deal!"

rockingroofer
07-11-2004, 08:52
I thank everyone for the responses and ideas
My truck has 250,000 miles on it right now so for now i am just replacing the pump until the engine needs an overhaul and then i will deal with all the upgrades and changing as I intend to rebuild like the power project with the penninsular piston
and everything else . Again I really appreciate the responses
Thx Rockingroofer

whatnot
07-11-2004, 19:16
A turbo master is a lot cheaper than a new vacuum pump.

C.K. Piquup
07-18-2004, 04:21
Why would GM list the vacuum pump with or w/o A/C?Is that simply a matter of belt routing,the difference in pumps being the pulley(smooth or ribbed side of belt)?

1996-Burb
07-20-2004, 19:30
What kind of boost are you getting with the turbo master? What about stock?

Barry Nave
07-21-2004, 03:04
The most you can get from stock would be 7psi.
Turbo Master 10psi +.
Though adding more boost with out adding more fuel will make no change.
More boost will just heat up the intake more.
Boost and fuel goes hand in hand.
Once that is done the stock EX. should be history.
I started out with the Banks kit, 5yrs. now and went on from there.

Dihrdbowti
07-21-2004, 20:32
I just recently put gauges on my Yukon and while taking a trip last weekend to Southern Cal from Reno I would pull 8-9psi steady on some of the hills all this with a stock system. I have run it up to 10 but it only sat there for a few seconds before falling off a bit. cruising flat at 65 is 2 1/2-3 and 75 is 4 1/2-5. I was think about getting the Turbo Master but I have EGR to contend with also and haven't found out how to get away without a vacuum pump.