Pretty impressive, I'd say

[NH2112]

I did a compression check earlier today before pulling the intake off to change the IP, and here are the numbers I came up with.

1 - 440
2 - 420
3 - 390
4 - 360
5 - 410
6 - 360
7 - 400
8 - 410

The lowest are just a hair more than 80% of the highest, and seeing that they're adjacent I'm thinking there may be a small leak in the head gasket. But what I thought was pretty impressive was the fact that this engine has about 280K on it and can still blow an average of 400psi. Maybe it's worth keeping the old girl aroound a bit longer LOL

[dieseldummy]

That is pretty impressive, I think I'd be lucky to do that well with 15k on a rebuild...

[NH2112]

Maybe my comments about keeping the old girl around were premature! I'm having a DEVIL of a time getting the fuel system primed, I'll probably just put an electric pump on tomorrow and see if that works better. Then it's off to the dealerships this coming week and maybe I'll be able to find a Jeep I can afford LOL

[aloharovers]

What surprises me is that you still are getting 440 in one cylinder. My rebuilt engine had 400-425 in all eight.

[CleviteKid]

Good numbers, Phil!

What Lube Oil have you been using? We will all want to use the same stuff that protected the moving parts in your engine so well.

And what oil filters? And how often do you change oil and filters?

Dr. Lee :cool:

[NH2112]

Dr. Lee,

I've had the truck for maybe 70K miles and have generally changed the oil every 2500 miles or so. A Blackstone Labs oil analysis said that my TBN count was good enough after 2500 that I could go 3500, but that's harder to keep track of. I've used Rotella-T and Amalie XLO, both in 15W40, because that's what we stocked on the shelves at my last job. Filters have been Wix 51794 or the Baldwin/AC Delco/NAPA equivalents, so it seems the 14% greater oil capacity really does make a difference.


My IP replacement didn't help with the problem I was having - it felt exactly like the governor was shot, with RPM varying on a steady throttle position, serious loss of power at highway speeds, etc. Couldn't get the fuel system bled on Saturday so this morning I put in an electric fuel pump to help save my starter (too late for the battery LOL) and I'm really not getting much flow. So, it looks like the old "drop tank, clean sock, blow out lines, wrestle tank back into place" routine. I think I'm going to just Sawzall a hole in the bed where I can access the sender, MIG-weld a small piano hinge to the removed piece of metal and bed, and tack the opposite edge to the bed floor to make things easier for me next time (this is sort of a recurring problem.) I believe that in part it stems from an incident I had with Power Service Bio-Kleen earlier this year - I was using it with each fill-up because one primary filter showed signs of fungus, and at one fill-up I noticed the Bio-Kleen in the bottle had catalyzed into a solid the consistency of amber. So, this stuff is probably in my fuel lines right now, and because of that I may just run rubber hoses all the way to and from the tank, obviating the need for the partially clogged tubelines.

[CleviteKid]

I used to use Racor's biocide twice a year, until I noticed the solid translucent amber pebbles forming in the bottom of the bottle. Stopped using THAT stuff !!

I like your idea of access plates over the tank sender units. Except in my case the senders have been solidly in place for 21 years, and I think the adhesive properties of iron oxide have them permanently welded to the tanks.

Dr. Lee :cool:

[mhagie]

To each their own, I just remove the bed mounting bolts and slide bed to the rear to access tank.
Never-seize the bolts and your good to go.
Merle

[NH2112]

I'd probably have to torch the bed bolts to get them off LOL When I took them off my K10 I had no leverage with a box/open-end wrench, and even an impact universal socket was too long to fit in there. So, out came the grinder and off came the bolt heads. Managed to catch the T-shirt I was wearing on fire, too tongue.gif