OOPS !

[K10ANDY]

I was trying to get my cucv startred tonight and i left a rag on the cowl by the fan . I had the air cleaner off and it fired and i saw it fly up and im prtty sure it got sucked in . Can this damage my engine ? i know i need to remove it but it died right after and mad some "Bad" noises . help please . thansk -no luck Andy :mad:

[john8662]

This isn't good, how big of a rag? Can you see any part of it in the intake runners by looking down the intake. Are you sure you lost the rag down the intake?

[dieselbegreat]

Well, if the rag got sucked into a runner or two it could have held an intake valve open. This would probably temporarily cause:
1. some valvetrain/pushrod noise,
2. coughing or backfiring through the intake,
and/or IF valves held open far enough
3. pistons colliding with the open valves resulting in bent valves and/or pushrods and damaged pistons.

[4x4Dreamer]

Sad to admit, but I've done it. I had my manifold off and had a cotton towel over the runners to keep the debris from my butthead neighbor mowing his lawn out of my engine. Well, I got excited to show someone how I finally got it running and I noticed it wasn't running so smooth. I realized what happened and shut it down.
I used a hemostat to reach down the runner and pull a bunch of pieces of it out. It took a while but i worked most of it out. Then I fired it up and about 10 seconds later a big chunk flew out the EGR. Haven't had any problems since.

[K10ANDY]

im not positive it went in but im going to remove the intake anyway to check .it was just a regular size shop rag .

[Hye]

Its just amazing how tightly a paper towel will pack itself around an intake valve. They didn't do any permanent damage, just some skinned knuckles.

[K10ANDY]

well i took it apart and got the rag out . i put it all back together and now it knocks . could it have messed up the injector ? or is it a bent valve and if so what is involved in fixing that ? :(

[britannic]

IMHO, I would recommend:

Bent valve: R&R affected head.
Injector: R&R

[K10ANDY]

R&R ? research and repair ?

[mhagie]

R&R = remove and replace
I would try a different injector first only because it is easier to do.
To me a bent valve would first give you a miss either out the exhaust or the intake,
the only way it would knock is if there was contact with the piston,I would imagine this is possible but I don't know the normal valve to piston clearance.
Also a metal to metal sound is different than a injector malfunction knock.
A compression test would be in order also as it can give the location if there be a valve leaking by.
Good luck, Merle

[dieselbegreat]

A compression test showing lower pressure in the suspected cylinders could indicate a bent valve, as would a leak-down test (pressurizing the cylinder with compressed air which leaks from the intake port). Perhaps just removing the valve cover would show that one intake valve is not lined up with the rest.

As far as injector knock being the problem, swapping out the injector would be easier probably and less invasive.

[K10ANDY]

How could the rag in the valve cause the injector to go bad ?

[K10ANDY]

ok so i took out the the GP and it was dripping fuel . I also stuck a rubber tip air nozzle in the GP hole and it holds no pressure . Do i have a hole in the piston and so it isnt lighting off and the fuel is going into the oil ? :mad:

[NH2112]

This is where the leakdown test is helpful. You pressurize the cylinder through the glow plug hole and listen for air leaking from the intake manifold (indicating a damaged intake valve), exhaust (indicating a damaged exhaust valve) or oil fill tube (indicating a hole or crack in a piston.) Removing the exhaust may make it easier to hear air escaping form the manifold.

[K10ANDY]

DID the leakdown , its the exhaust valve . :( what am i going to have to do to fix this ? -
Andy

[Brianlar]

To pull the valve, ya gotta yank the head. Are you sure the crank was at top dead center for the cylinder in question? Compression stroke that is.

[dieselbegreat]

Yeah, both valves have to be closed at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke or your results will be whacked.

[Robyn]

You might try pulling the exhaust manifold and having a look see at the valve on the effected cylinder. You may have a wad of rag stuck in the valve. The problem with all this is the 6.2 has very little valve to piston clearance when the piston comes over TDC on the compression stroke and thus you may have smacked the valve. It is however worth a look see and possibly holding the valve open with a bar on the rocker and digging a bunch of rag out. I am not real optimistic but its worth a look.
Best of luck to you.
RC

[K10ANDY]

I took out the injector and i can see coolant in the chamber . :( :mad: this sucks .

[dieselbegreat]

Looks like time to pull that head and see where that coolant is coming from. Maybe a cracked head.

[K10ANDY]

UPDATE :

Took it apart last night , the head gasket looked like it was intact . where would the head be cracked to let coolant into the cyl ? -Andy :confused:

[farmerherb]

Andy, what did the valves look like? Head could be cracked around valve seat.

[K10ANDY]

The Valves look fine to me except for the one on the other end of the head where nothing went on ,probly a PO had a gp break . there are hairline cracks around the fuel entry ports tho . ill get some pics later today . everything looks ok to me , i put some air pressure in the chamber that had the cooland in it and it didnt seem to leak into the coolant passages . im stumped . -Andy

[Brianlar]

If you have coolant in one cylinder, ithad to come from somewhere. Either the gasket failed, the head cracked, or the block cracked or cavitated. Since you offered info about the rag, I submit that it may have caused the piston to litterally push the head up enougfh to cause it to unseal from the block, hence the leak, and miss. My 2. cents.

[K10ANDY]

there are no marks on the piston to substaniate your theory . here is a pic of the head . ran out of battiers in the digicam for the piston . :mad:

[K10ANDY]

oh and the metal rings from the gasket were all in one piece .

[K10ANDY]

PIC ---->

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mbyrum@sbcglobal.net/detail?.dir=e237&.dnm=6f29.jpg&.src=ph

[Dezman125]

Hi
Is that a crack from the intake valve heading towards the precup?
Both my heads cracked in that direction.
Hope not,because i don't think they can be repaired

[K10ANDY]

Pics of my new gasket . Has any one ever used these ? Does it look like a good gasket ? They better be for 45$ a piece .

http://photos.yahoo.com/mbyrum@sbcglobal.net

[ 03-23-2005, 09:54 PM: Message edited by: 6-2 CHUCKVEE ]

[Dezman125]

Hi
The recomened head gasket by most is made by Felpro.I read that one of the engin rebuilders will only use them,because they havn't had any warenty comebacks for headgasket with Felpro.
You also need new headbolts,they are not reuseable

[K10ANDY]

so i should ONLY use the fel pro gaskets ?

bump ?

[arveetek]

I would only use Fel-Pro gaskets. I don't recognize the brand of gasket you purchased, but it looks a lot like the OEM gaskets that had silicone sealing rings around all the water and oil passages. However, after learning all I have lately about head gaskets, I would stick with Fel-Pro. They're about the same price.

If you don't have the extra cooling passages that some early 6.2L heads have, then you can use 6.5L gaskets, which are supposed to be stronger and better, and are nearly half the price. I can't figure out why they're cheaper, unless they simply make and sell a lot more 6.5L gaskets.

Read these recent threads for more info:

Don't use Detroit Gaskets! (http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=003416)

Recommended head gaskets (http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=003454)

Casey

[K10ANDY]

thanks Casey . how do i know which thickness to use ?? can i just mike the old one in a place where it wasnt crushed ? i think i do have the cooling passsge would it be ok to have it brazed up at the shop i work at ? -Andy

[DmaxMaverick]

Originally posted by 6-2 CHUCKVEE:
thanks Casey . how do i know which thickness to use ?? can i just mike the old one in a place where it wasnt crushed ? i think i do have the cooling passsge would it be ok to have it brazed up at the shop i work at ? -Andy The old gasket will have the oversize stamped into it, if it has one. Be careful getting it off and check it carefully. I don't remember exactly where it will stamped, but it will be visible.

[arveetek]

Originally posted by 6-2 CHUCKVEE:
i think i do have the cooling passsge would it be ok to have it brazed up at the shop i work at ? -Andy Yep, you can braze the hole shut. However, you might want to figure out which would cost more: 6.2L gaskets or having the machine work done. I bet it would be cheaper just to use the 6.2L gaskets. Unless the brazing would be free!

Casey

[K10ANDY]

machine work is free . :D i think my crank is broken or something tho . i was checking for bent con rods and got conflicting readings (how close do they need to be ? ) and it makes a weird noise at certain points while turing it . i guess ill pull the pan and have a look see. :(

[K10ANDY]

bump