Little space for gauges

[Subzilla]

In looking for a suitable location for my new transmission temperature gauge, I took a step back and looked at the vast array of aftermarket guages and switches (including brake controller) I currently have in my 1983. I would like to clean up the looks before I add one more and was exploring the possibility of moving and reinstalling all gauges in the center dash right above the middle a/c vent. I think this would look cool and clean! I took out the glove box to have a look and found the old-style 1970's metal curved dash behind the plastic cover. I could easily cut the holes in the plastic part but this metal dash/support would present some clearance problems without modifications. Has anybody else done this? Any other suggestions? I currently have the tach and pyrometer in a Radio Shack black project box sitting on top of the dash. I'm trying to reduce the redneck-look factor on the interior even though the exterior exposes my true colors!

[DmaxMaverick]

If you don't use your ashtray, you could remove it and fashion a cover to install you gage(s) in. You could also install them angled upward in the metal trim piece under and to the side of the steering wheel. Aside of a gage pod, there really isn't any other place to put them without drilling into the dash somewhere.

[catmandoo]

i have the 3 hole pod from banks that sits on the dash right behind the speaker and it doesn't look too bad,if ya need one i have one i'm not gonna use.

[smcghan]

Subzilla,
Go to this web site www.73-87.com (http://www.73-87.com)
The cover page 2nd from bottom paragraph, has this thread. Add aftermarket guages to your dashboard. It's a little bit of work, but it look's like it would be sweet. I hope to get the time to do this some day.
Steven

[Subzilla]

SMCGHAN,
That is exactly what I was wanting to do. Thanks for the direction. I'll study this article over the weekend and decide if I want to tackle this or not for both vehicles.

Catmandoo,
I probably will take you up on your offer if I decide not to do the above plan. Thanks!

I love the Diesel Page member resources.

[Salemone]

Subzilla,
How is your trans holding out?
John-

[Subzilla]

Sorry John, I never called you. The little stuff got put on the back burner, temporarily. But the torque converter is locking just dandy, couldn't be happier. :D My concern is the shift points. Even after installing a stiffer governor spring, the 1-2 still tends to wind out more than I like but 2-3 shifts became perfect. I didn't even install the weight supplied in the kit as the existing weight looked to be as heavy. I don't have a digital scale to confirm this.

The other wacky thing is my Blazer TC has been misbehaving randomly. It will function perfectly for a months, then suddenly begin a locking-unlocking motion very randomly. It may stay locked or unlocked for 10 minutes or 10 seconds at highway speed - no constant varible. It did this for about 5 days at Christmas and also back in September, then cleared up and will perform perfectly?!?! :confused: This may better discussed by phone. Thanks again!

[Stray Cat]

Have you considered a "3-pod Pillar" set-up? I did the redneck over and under dash thing on my Blazer. On my Suburban, I have a three gauge pod on the windshield pillar. Much cleaner look, and less effort to scan the gauges while driving! I have Engine Oil Temp, Transmission Oil Temp, and EGT gauges in the Pillar. I put the Boost gauge in the blank in the dash array where the optional clock would go on a 80s Truck. It looks very clean!

[Dezman125]

Stray Cat
Where did you get a pillar pod set up for your sub.I'v been serching for one but havn't found a source yet.
Thanks

[gmctd]

Check my sig for another alternative - direct line-of-site while driving.

[Subzilla]

I'm just about ready to finish up the final wiring for the gauge project on the Blazer. I installed them per the instructions and picture as shown on the the www.73-87.com (http://www.73-87.com) webpage discussed above. I'm real happy with the results and I'll share some pictures as soon as I borrow a digital camera. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be but I was a little nervous cutting big holes in my dash with a hole saw; lots of time spent measuring, pondering, and creating a template. I plan to do the same thing to the Sub very soon. I installed the tach, pyrometer and trans temp gauges but could easily add a couple more if needed (or afforded!).

Nobody offers the pod setup for our classic vehicles.

[Stray Cat]

The pillar gauge mount was not designed for the truck, and not even a three pod pillar. I got a two pod gemeric, and one pod generic from Summit Racing and made the pillar mount. It came out good!

[Robyn]

Subzilla
You converter locking issue can be one of a few troubles. The tranny has depending on it year up to three pressure switches on the valve body. 1 is the 4th switch the other is the 4-3 downshift swotch and possibly a signal switch. If the 4th switch is toast it can make and break contact intermitently causing the issue. The solenoid itself that plugs into the front pump and controls the lockup can also be at fault or it could be the TPS on the injector pump. If you get intermitent electrical signals to the tranny its going to act funny too. Make sure you have power to the connector on the tranny. The diesels usually use two of the connector pins. Also there is a connection that runs through the stop light switch to shut down the lockup if you touch the brakes. Yup you guessed it. This switch if bad can mess up the lockup opperation.

[Subzilla]

I haven't checked for intermittent power to the connector, yet. It's been doing fine for the last month! Which of the 2 wires should have the power? My Sub only has 1 wire and they're both 700's. And exactly what does the TPS on the side of the IP do? When I replaced the IP on the Sub last year, I just put this back on the same setting but it seemed to change the speed at which lock-up occured. Haven't messed with anything on the Blazer. Thanks!

[mhagie]

On my installation I took the TPS and threw it in the trash can.
I found that at in the idle position it unlocked the TCC so I just soldered the wires together and eliminated the TPS entirely.
With my bowtie 700r4 it locks up with the 4th gear apply switch (internal) or with the help of a couple of remote switches whenever I want it to apply.
With the TPS it would unlock TCC every time you let up on the acc pedal,didn't like that, I believe in letting the trans help slow truck down rather than free wheeling.
Tcc unlocks as soon as it drops out of OD which it good enough for me. :D
Merle