girdle kit

[RandyL]

cracked the webs on my 87 6.2l with banks. want to know if anybody has used ths girdle kit with good results? installed banks at 145k, 155k main bearing went out and noticed seriously cracked webs on all the main webs. block is junk. Picked up a used motor and want to set it up right with this banks? any recommendations welcomed.

[ 01-07-2005, 05:53 PM: Message edited by: RandyL ]

[john8662]

I think that the stud girdle kit would make a great addition to a newly built engine. I don't know if there is any proof that the kit actually helps a block not to crack. I guess we are all testing this one, until someone finds a cracked block that had the kit. I've installed one in my 86 truck in preparation for turbocharging, it was crack free with 145K miles on the clock. For your new engine, go with the stud girdle kit, and install a new harmonic balancer.

[grape]

I've seen 500 hp small block fords split in half without a stud girdle and with a stud girdle, didn't seem to matter.

[john8662]

Yes, smallblock 302 F*rds split in half at 500 HP. FEW 6.2's crack main webs, but not in half ;)

[farmerherb]

I had a 6.2 in a van. It had a ticking noise I couldn't find. One day after I had drove it 90,000 the crank broke and the block web.Noise was the balancer bolts catching the oil pan. This motor had 225,000 on it. Sure enough the balancer was out of shape. I have another 6.2 with 248,000 on a rering, piston skirt broke. A 6.5TD with 302,000 I replaced the balancers at 180,000.

[SteveMc]

Your story sounds farmilar as my 6.2 gave up at 221K when the webs gave way and the crank broke in half. It had a banks turbo since new in 87 and was well serviced as far as I could find. The harmonic balancer was in good shape when it broke. My replacement is a 97 6.5 block with girdle and gears for timing. The engine should be ready to go in tomorrow, but the banks gets sold as I want to go N/A. It did look nice in the engine compartment thought!!

SteveMc

[john8662]

Steve,

you should seriously reconsider keeping the turbo setup, especially since the engine you're installing was made for a turbo. The 6.5's all have thicker main webs than the early 6.2L's did, so cracked main webs are not really the concern. Just out of curiousity, what exhaust are you going to use if you go N/A?

[TimK]

My $0.02.

My original 6.2L had 197K miles on it when the center main bearing lower end parted from the block and the broke the crankshaft on either side of the bearing. The balancer showed some signs of the rubber membrane starting to buldge out just a little. I believe it to be the original item. However, I think my engine was pushed over the edge by having the cold start advanced staying activated after the engine warmed up. I have added a "Cold Start" light to the dash so I am aware if this happens again.

The replacement engine I got was a 6.5L drop in setup for a turbo. I added the Banks turbo, which I did not have on the old engine. Wow. I can't imagine now not having a turbo. You couldn't pry that turbo from my diesel stained hands. I love that thing. Once you go turbo you can't go back.

TimK

[Dieselboy]

Originally posted by TimK:
...Wow. I can't imagine now not having a turbo. You couldn't pry that turbo from my diesel stained hands. I love that thing. Once you go turbo you can't go back...Well said. But beware, that familiar whistle sound is addictive one. :D

[SteveMc]

I hear what you guys are saying about keeping the turbo. After using it N/A a while I may be tempted to put it back on. However, I want something to realy last. Getting into my sixtys and its getting harder to get into those tight areas for glowplug changes etc.

Am going to use 2.5 in dual exhaust as the origional stock hangers are still in place.

SteveMc