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View Full Version : Inproper bleeding of power steering causes brake lockup?



aloharovers
10-21-2003, 11:51
I pulled a real bonehead. I have flex lines for my power steering/hydroboost. I disconected the line from the pump to the hydroboost because it was in the way of my tring to diagnose the white smoke. I ran the line down along the frame, reconnected it and didnt proberly bleed the system.

I was checking the smoke issue and forgot all about bleeding the system. Kept starting and stopping the engine checking stuff. Then I went to move the Rover so I could close the garage door and after I applied the brakes they wouldnt release. Remove the PS belt, brakes release, got the garage locked up.

I didnt get a chance to mess with it anymore last night.
Can I still go through the proper procedure for bleeding air out of the system, or have I damaged the hydroboost?

Please, please, please say option A. hahaha
Pete

britannic
10-21-2003, 13:43
There shouldn't be any damage if you didn't run the engine hard or very long, here's what to do:

BLEEDING

WARNING
Always wear goggles when bleeding power steering system. Hydraulic fluid spillage can occur. Failure to follow this warning may result in serious eye injury.

CAUTION
Hydraulic fluid and brake fluid cannot be mixed. Damage to seals will result if hydraulic fluid contacts brake seals or brake fluid contacts
steering seals.

NOTE
Ensure that power steering hoses are not touching any other parts of truck, particularly sheet metal. This will prevent noise from power
steering hoses during operation.

1. Check PS belt tightness and inspect pulley for looseness or damage.

Tighten or replace belt and pulley as required.

2. Remove PS cap and fill hydraulic fluid reservoir to proper level.

3. Start engine and run momentarily, turn off engine. Check hydraulic fluid level and add as required. Repeat until hydraulic fluid level remains constant after running engine.

4. Start engine and depress brake pedal several times while rotating steering wheel right and left, lightly contacting wheel stops. Turn off engine. Check hydraulic fluid level and add as required.

5. Check for air in hydraulic fluid. Hydraulic fluid will appear foamy or milky if it contains air. If air is present, allow truck to stand a few minutes with engine off, then repeat steps 2 through 4 as required. If hydraulic fluid still appears foamy or milky after a few attempts, let us know on the "DieselPage".

aloharovers
10-21-2003, 17:34
Originally posted by britannic:
There shouldn't be any damage if you didn't run the engine hard or very longhahahah...3-4 hours long?
Yeah, it was probably running that long total. For all the starts, restarts, heat up/cool down cycles.
Tonight I followed the procedure explained by Jim in either the 2000 or 2001 articles.
Front end lifted up, cycle stearing with engine off...etc.
Soon as the engine starts, step on the brakes, take foot of brake, but brake dont release. Shut off engine, brakes release.
Grrrrr. Well learned a good lesson.

britannic
10-21-2003, 18:02
Did you bleed it following the steps I outlined? I had a Jaguar once which had been run without power steering fluid for 2500 miles or more (the previous owner wasn't sure when the hose failed). Anyhow, I repaired the hose and refilled, bled the pump and voila, it worked!!!

You probably have an air lock in the hydroboost system, which may need some extra bleeding. The pump is designed to self bleed, so try repeating the bleeding procedure.

[ 10-21-2003, 08:27 PM: Message edited by: britannic ]

aloharovers
10-23-2003, 16:22
Aloha Brit and thank you.
Yeah tried the exact steps and repeated them. No foaming of the fluid problem persists.
So I swapped out the hydroboost. Went ahead and did the pump at the same time. Thing had been squeeling real bad.
Bled the system, brakes work great.
Thanks
Pete

britannic
10-23-2003, 17:04
Excellent result!