Loose Steering and other questions.

[Yknot]

Hello,

I

[TimK]

Yknot,

I think this is a reasonable price to replace everything that was quoted. I am assuming this also includes an alighnment when the work is complete. The amount of play in the steering you have is excessive and could be dangerous when driving at high speeds or adverse conditions when you are more likely to over correct.

When it comes to steering the vehicle or stopping the vehicle, ask yourself if you trust your life or that of your passengers with your own mechanic skills in case you don't get it right. As the Midas commercial used to say "It's one thing if your car doesn't start but it's a big problem if it doesn't stop" (paraphrasing). I would still suggest getting the car manuals even if you don't do all the work yourself. This allows you to get familiar with the parts and procedures your mechanic has to go through. It will help to keep them honest.

The books I recommend are the Haynes Chevy manual for that year truck, the Haynes Diesel Manual covering the GMC 6.2L and the Ford 6.9L. My book is blue with a picture of a Ford Power Stroke on it. And of course you should get the Remove and Replacement (R&R) manuals from this web page along with the trouble shooting guide. If your looking for other body and trim pieces you can order a catalog from www.lmctruck.com. (http://www.lmctruck.com.)

Your transmission is most likely the TH400. I believe the 1/2 Sub got the 700r4 tranny and the 3/4 ton got the 3 speed TH400. I have a busted TH400 tranny cover I am trying to replace. Please let me know if you find a place that sells these.

TimK

[Dieselboy]

Welcome to thediesepage, Ynot.

I've rebuilt my steering system once or twice, and it's really not that big of a deal. The GM service manual is my weapon of choice, but the Hanyes and Chiltons are good too. As far as teh tie rod and drag link ends go, it's just a matter of unbolting, removing and replacing the ends. The tapered ends can be pretty tight some times, so a pitman arm puller can be helpful in persuading them out.

The steering box is straight forward enough. Just keep your parts organized and put everything back together and indexed the way it came.

[Yknot]

Thanks much for the reply and advice. I'll take a look at the manuals to determine if I want to tackle the job myself.

YKnot

[Yknot]

Update, (still need advice!)

I looked under the car and had my son wiggle the steering wheel. As it turns out, it was clear that the outer tie rod end had all the slop.

So I purchased the tie rod ends this weekend to do the replacement myself but ran into a problem removing the outer end. I took the carter pin out of the inner end and the nut came off with no problem. Unfortunately, the outer end bolt turns with the nut and I can't figure out a way to stop the bolt from turning as I twist the nut! Any suggestions welcomed!

Derek

[Dieselboy]

If I understand your problem correctly, then I would hit it with some breaker compound. Try holding the bolt with a pair of channel locks while turning the nut with an open end.

[NH2112]

The TH400 has a "Texas-shaped" oil pan, so the best way to tell which tranny you have is to see whether the shift quadrant has a "3" or "OD" position (TH700R4) or just the usual "1 2 D" (TH350.)

[catmandoo]

derek try a channel locks put one jaw on the greasezerk side and the other jaw on the spindle boss or the draglink whichever your on and squeaze together while turning the nut apply as much pressure as needed to hold the stud also a little heat never hurt anything.

[NH2112]

I normally just hammer a pickle fork in as hard as I can so it puts upwards pressure on the tie rod end. This causes the tie rod end to keep the tapered stud from spinning with the nut. If you're lucky you'll be able to get the nut all the way off, and if not you'll have to keep hammering the pickle fork in so there's always enough pressure on the tapered stud. I've also used a bottle jack to do the same thing, and if worst comes to worst you can split the castle nut with a nut splitter or hammer & chisel.

[cschneider]

Yknot,
I have done a complete front end rebuild on my truck and everything went fairly smoothly. It really isn't hard, it just gets messy. Honestly a lot of the slop in the steering in these trucks is in the steering shaft. Borgenson makes one that is infinitely better than stock and if you ever replace the steering box only go with AGR. Back to the task at hand, you will almost surely need some pickle forks or tie rod separator. If you come up to the east bay at all I could loan you my front end tool set which makes the job a cinch. Let me know and good luck.

[Yknot]

Wow! Thanks for all the support and suggestions. I'm going to try again this afternoon and let you all know how it goes.

Yknot