Heater Controls and Starter Question

[cwlehner]

My heater controls quit working. Right now it is stuck on vent and won't move to defrost. I am going to tear it apart tonight to see if I can at least get it so I can get my defroster going (Winter just arrived in Michigan).. Is this vacuum operated or mechanical. If it is vacuum, what kind of things am I going to have to deal with since this is a Diesel??

My starter seems to be going, was really fast, starting to get really slow.. I modified the battery connections as per Dr. Lee's recommendation, but every once in a while it click's while spinning (batteries are new 1000cca) I have also seen a discomfiting amount of smoke come from the starter when she is cranked for more than 5 or six seconds (first noticed this back in July).. Not sure if a little diesel fuel got on it last time I changed the filter (although that was 6 months ago) or if the windings are burning up... Anyway I plan on putting the gear reduction 6.5 starter on it, but was wondering the best place to get one. I saw one guy posted that NAPA truck parts worked for him, but it looks like that is a little different than a regular NAPA store. Also, what is the difference between open and closed ends? I have a K30 auto 4x4..

I am going to put 5W40 Rotella in it tonight which will help. I also got a set of JK glow plugs (also going on tonight) and have already modified my controller. I get about 8 seconds of glow time now, but it doesn't seem enough to get the 60G's good and hot. the best way to start it has been jumping the controller with a screwdriver.. If I can't get this beast to start good, this Winter is going to suck...

Thanks for the help!

[john8662]

Q1:

The heater controlls are vacuum controlled. I'd first verify that you have vacuum. At the rear of the engine behind the air cleaner you will find the vacuum pump. The vacuum pump is located on the left hand side rear of the engine if you're standing in front of the truck (passenger's side). Start the engine, and remove a hose that connected to the pump and see if you've got vacuum, you should feel a good suction. Also, since you're there, take a real good look at the hose connections. The main connection that connects to the plastic "T" connecting to the pump itself is the first to deteriorate, so check it. If the hose mentioned is shot, you can replace it with fuel hose of the correct size (3/8").

Q2:

Sounds like your starter is a gonner. I'd suggest removing it and taking it down to one of the "chain" auto parts stores that has a starter and alternator test bench. Get them to test the starter and see what you think. My guess is that some of the winding is burned up in the starter causing slow cranking and also too much load on the starter solenoid causing it to click. You don't have to replace the starter with the newer 28MT, as a matter of fact the old style starter the 27MT is a faster cranking starter if everything is in good condition (wires, batteries, connections, etc.). I'd suggest getting a new starter with an acceptable warranty and go from there. I personally like the "Autolite" reman 6.2 starter above ALL the reman starters out there, but I can't recall where to get one currently...

In conclusion, I suspect that if you get the starter cranking the engine over at it's max RPM's as it's intended to do and get good plugs and the extended glow time mentioned, then you'll be starting better. Hows the block heater?

[BobND]

First, check for vacuum. If you have vacuum, suspect a little plastic gadget that attaches the rod on a vacuum motor to an air door. The little part is visible after removing the glovebox, and then some ductwork behind, and to the left of the glove box.

When this little clip thingy breaks, the door is no longer operated by the vacuum motor, and will be spring-centered in such a way that most of the air will come out the vents, and the floor heat and defrosters won't work.

[NH2112]

If you have AC then the heater diverter doors are vacuum-operated, but trucks without AC use the regular old cable-operated diverters. There's one under the glove compartment (operated by the hot/cold lever) and one under the ashtray that switches between defrost and heat.

[cwlehner]

Hose was off at the vacuum pump!

As far as the starter goes, I have it off (see other post) and am going to have it tested tonight.


Thanks!