Getting into timing chain

[SteveMc]

Drained the radiator on the 87 Suburban and noticed buildup around cooling tubes. Plan to removed same for a radiator cooking. While in the area will change water pump. Since Iam half way there, I want to check the timing chain. With 200k miles and trip pulling 5800 lb camper thru southwest this winter, I want it sort of right.

Looking at a Haynes Diesel manual they tell me the manifold has to be removed to get a timing chain and gear replacement. Is this correct? Anyone haveing completed this, could you pass along any problem areas or suggestions

THX SteveMc

[britannic]

I was able to remove the timing cover without removing the pump, intake or crossover pipe. On my 1985 crossover, I did have to remove the bypass nozzle, as it was blocking one of the timing cover bolts.

[TimK]

The same here. I did not remove the intake manifold when I replaced my chain with a gear set. I believe Haynes is assuming you are going to remove the injection pump and this would require the removal of the manifold. I did about the same as Britannic. I did have to make up a special tool to re-install the damper pulley. The Bolt that holds on the damper pulley is too short to press the pulley back onto the crank. I believe it is a 14mm fine thread but I can't remember. While the bolt is out you will want to run down to the hardware store and get yourself a longer bolt until the pulley is on far enough that you can use the stock bolt. Avoid smacking the end of the pulley with a hammer as this is hard on the thrust bearings. I could not find a longer bolt with the same thread pitch. I was able to find a 14mm find thread bolt which is a common size used for and oil pan plug at my local Ace hardware and weleded it to a longer bolt.

TimK

[britannic]

YMMV, but the military manual instructed to use a wood block and mallet to gently tap the damper on, until the bolt will engage. This is the method I used, and the damper went on really easily.

If you don't like tapping the damper on and you have a "Kragen Autoparts" in town, they will loan an installation kit free providing it's returned within 2 days.

[CleviteKid]

I remember Kragen from my Kalifornia days (who did you vote for, Britannic, Tony Blair ?). In Maryland, you are more likely to find an AutoZone, and they also have a free loaner tool program. When I lived in Norther Virginia, Trak Auto was the big deal - are they still in business ?

I also did the double welded bolt trick to install my damper. Thrust bearings are pretty rugged, but what if that 1985 block has block cracks ? ! ? ! ?

Dr. Lee :cool:

[britannic]

Originally posted by CleviteKid:
I remember Kragen from my Kalifornia days (who did you vote for, Britannic, Tony Blair ?).No, I didn't vote for him and I was long gone in any case :D !


In Maryland, you are more likely to find an AutoZone, and they also have a free loaner tool program. When I lived in Norther Virginia, Trak Auto was the big deal - are they still in business ?

I also did the double welded bolt trick to install my damper. Thrust bearings are pretty rugged, but what if that 1985 block has block cracks ? ! ? ! ?

Dr. Lee :cool: Good point Doc! My 1985 milspec block is the high nickel content casting and has "nada" cracks of any sort, anywhere that I can find, so the military felt confident recommending gentle tapping with a wood block and soft mallet.

If you're unsure of your block go with the installation kit or welded bolt trick.

I recommend a new damper bolt in any case, they're very cheap and could save a whole lot of heartache and $$ in the future :cool: .

[SteveMc]

Thanks for the tips. I will use them all. Hope to get into the project the last two weeks of this month. Going to recondition injectors at the same time.

Auto Zone and Parts America are what we have in Salisbury Md. Will check on the loaner program, but will probably go with new bolt and welding the old one for initial pull on the wheel. I had not thought of that problem.

Thanks again. SteveMc