turbo question

[seabee mike]

HI I am new here. I just got a 86 M1009 . I dont know anything about them. but that will not take long to change.
My question is I wish to buy a turbo kit for it. I have seen the banks sidewinder kit . is it any good? i see one muffler in the kit but m1009 has 2 mufflers. is this a good kit will i need something else? or is there a better kit? ORRRR does anyone here have a set up they want to sell? thank you for any input. mike seabee-vet@earthlink.net

[DmaxMaverick]

As far as kits for the 6.2L goes, the Sidewinder is about as good you'll find. However, there will be other opinions on this. You could do much better, performance and $$ wise by piecing it together. The "bolt on's" come at a price for convenience. Most of the parts you'll need can be had for a song from individuals here and other places like Ebay. What you don't pick up can be had reasonably from DP advertisers. Best advice there is to talk with John Kennedy, Bill Heath, etc. Most of the advertisers here are very helpful, with or without a sale.

As far as the exhaust goes, you will be replacing that. You won't need a dual exhaust with the turbo. A larger single is best. You could adapt it, but it won't do anything but cost more.

Welcome to the forum, and Good luck.

[shamanie]

Mike, I just got mine in and I am very pleased. A few suggestions; First, and also depending on how old your fuel pump is, you should consider upgrading to the db4911 pump for better fuel delivery. Secondly, again, depending on how old they are, I would consider upgrading those injection lines and injectors to those found on the 6.5. Search for injectors and you will plenty of info.

Oh, and there was mention by someone that you need to watch your tranny after turboing. Adjusting the tv cable will help ensure you don't smoke it.

All in all I am very happy. Although, I still have to keep it in third to maintain any sort of high highway speed 70-80 with 5psi, If i put it in drive, it wants to go into forth(od?) and no psi and power will drop off and it'll end up down shifting. I have 33" tires and could be a result of gearing but hell I don't know.

[G. Gearloose]

No muffler with the Banks is the way to go..

[G. Gearloose]

shamani something is amiss with your truck, can't tell if its fuel delivery or axle ratio, but you shouldn't have to be satisfied with that performance. I run 35" mudders and it loves OD on the highway.

[shamanie]

Gearloose,

$%#@@@#$%^!!!, I thought so. It is so quick to downshift on any kind of hill. Hmmmm, how the hell do I tell if its one or the other. I don't want to blow another grand on pump/injectors if i don't need them, you know.

What is involved in getting the gearing changed in our vehicles. And what do I change it to? Is that something a novice can takle or is that better left to someone with some experience?

Sorry to thread jack here, but, in all honesty, here is a prime example of what should be taken care of before turboing. Wish I had taken my own advice.

Thanks

[seabee mike]

no. no.. it is ok jack all you want this is how i learn.. in and outs.. i think i can do it my self. the shop wanted 1200. to install it. is it better to leave it with the stock muffler set up duels, or the one banks. also where is the best price seller? i see them on e bay for 1800.00 also i dont know what a tv on the trans is. but i wilkl try to find it. what kind of setup do i look for if not the banks..?? thank you

[shamanie]

Originally posted by seabee mike:
no. no.. it is ok jack all you want this is how i learn.. in and outs.. i think i can do it my self. the shop wanted 1200. to install it. is it better to leave it with the stock muffler set up duels, or the one banks. also where is the best price seller? i see them on e bay for 1800.00 also i dont know what a tv on the trans is. but i wilkl try to find it. what kind of setup do i look for if not the banks..?? thank you Wow, i was charged 660, for install. 60 an hour for 11 hours. I'm just not that mechanically savvy and just can't risk messing it up. As my only vehicle, when she goes down, it's a major freakin hassle. Although, i should really get in and do the injectors and pump myself.

I paid $2000 shipped from usdieselparts.com and have no complaints.

One major problem they had was with the oil return line. There is a bolt down by the oil filter that the line connects into, apparently, is a bitch to get out.

That cable, the TV or CV cable, I think adjusts the shift points in the tranny? Please chime in if you can provide a better explanation than mine.

[grape]

voting to build your own

[84 Convert]

Shamanie...I'd be guessing in the gearing direction. If the engine isn't moving enough air to spin the turbo up you'll get no boost. Alot of those blazers had 3.07:1 gears. Try this jack up one side of the rear axle, wheels chocked, in neutral, mark a spot on the driveline and count how many times it passes a related mark on the axlehousing. divide by two (assuming an open diff) and that's the ballpark ratio. Of course, if you still have the build sheet on the inner fenderwell, it should give the ratio, or you can check for a tag on the front diff cover bolts. With 33" tires I think 3.73's ought to work well. Setting gears up is a very precise process, if you want them to live long, it has to be done right, and there are specialty tools and know-how that are necessary. Read up on it and see if you think it falls in the realm of your abilities.

Grape...DITTO


Gregg

[Bill Siver]

Why will you divide by 2? I don't think the driveshaft turns at any different speed in a posi v.s. open diff.

I'm not sure, just can't figure any reason for twice the rotations.

Bill

[dieselcrawler]

If you have an "open" diff, no positrack, no locker that will make both tires spin at the same rate, and you only have one tire off the ground, the ring gear will go around one half of the times the tire that is off the ground will, due to the operation of the spider gears inside the diff. So, it goes like this: As the drive shaft turns, the ring gear turns the ring gear carrier, and inside it is the spider gears. There are 4 of them, 2 attached to the ring gear carrier, and 2 attachted to the ends of the axle shafts. If one tire is on the ground, that one of the spider gears will not be able to move. Thus, it will cause the other tire to go around twice as much as the ring gear.
So, to say it all again, in my own words, (I know this was said a few posts back) this is the easiest way to find out, as long as your diff is open-geared, no lockers, positracks in it. Jack up one side of the rearend, after chocking the other side. Put the truck in neutral, so the drive shaft can turn freely. Turn the tire that is off the ground so the valve stem is at the bottom. Look at the drive shaft. Mark it, and maybe even the rearend, so you can tell how far the driveshaft rotates. Have someone else watch it, or if you can do it all yourself, great. I've been able to... Now, turn the tire that is off the ground 2 complete turns, while counting how meny times the drive shaft turns. This will be able to tell you approximatly what your gears are. If the drive shaft goes around just more than 3 times, you have 3.08 gears, 3 3/4 times, you have 3.73 gears, and so on... 2.73's, 3.08's, 3.42's, 3.73's, 4.10's, 4.56's, all are common numbers.
Good luck finding out what you have, that's the easy part. Getting the ones you need, now that might be a bit more difficult.

Greg

[Bill Siver]

I think I understand. Wouldn't it be easier to raise both tires off the ground, then tape a piece of string to the drivshaft. with the string secured, rotate a tire one complete revolution. Now you can count how many times the string wrapped around the driveshaft.

I've never done this, and your way sounds fine, I'm just thinking it might be easier this way for one person.

Bill

[DmaxMaverick]

Originally posted by Bill Siver:
I think I understand. Wouldn't it be easier to raise both tires off the ground, then tape a piece of string to the drivshaft. with the string secured, rotate a tire one complete revolution. Now you can count how many times the string wrapped around the driveshaft.

I've never done this, and your way sounds fine, I'm just thinking it might be easier this way for one person.

Bill No. Crawler described the best method. If you have an open diff, or OEM locker, it would be difficult (or impossible) to get both wheels to turn at the same rate. If you have limited slip, Detroit(or similar), or an ARB/E-Locker, it would work your way. Just jack one wheel and double the turns. Simple.

[Bill Siver]

Ok. We'll go with that one.

On another note, I can't remember where I saw it, but there is this wheel you can buy with all bolt patterns, and it bolts to the axle flange. I guess you turn the driveshaft, and the wheel thing tells you the axle ratio. It looked like a degree wheel for a camshaft.

I wish I could remember where I saw it!

Bill

[DmaxMaverick]

Why spend money for something you can do easier, quicker and free without it???

[Bill Siver]

No reason, just thought it pertained to the conversation. Alot of times we CAN do things for free, but the time and accuracy is worth the price.

Why add a turbo to a 6.2, when, for less money and maybe more longevity you can leave it stock and still do all the same things.

Bill

[britannic]

Except burn off wannabee boy racers :D and get to 60 in under 8 seconds with >5000lbs of truck - it's very subjective and to each his own!


Originally posted by Bill Siver:

Why add a turbo to a 6.2, when, for less money and maybe more longevity you can leave it stock and still do all the same things.

Bill

[Bill Siver]

;)