stanadyne fuel filter retrofit anyone done it?

[HANK1948]

I have a 83 C30 with the old style filter set up how difficult is it to set a newer style stanadyne type 80 filter, were does all of the wires go to? Is there a wiring schematic for this I can get? I have a 88 burban with this filter, its alot nicer to change and blead the air out also

[DmaxMaverick]

If you are going through the trouble of changing your fiter setup, why the 80? There are much better options out there. Stanadyne, Cat and Racor, to name a few, have filter assy's that will replace the OEM's. They also have integrated heaters. An added bonus is the ease and less messy changing of the filter. There's no mess free way to change the 80. The filter efficiencies of the others are usually much better than the OEM's.

A good place to shop for other options (and probably cheaper too) is heavy duty truck dealers and truck stop parts dept. Have a look at systems designed for refer and genset units. They are about the size you will need. Also, give TDP advertisers a look. You might be surprised at all the options you have, and with unbeatable customer service and advice.

[BobND]

The old round primary filter was plumbed in AHEAD of the mechanical lift pump, so the lines from the frame, through the engine "valley", to the filter, to the lift pump have to be switched around a bit.

The 2-stage rectangular filter is plumbed in AFTER the mechanical lift pump.

Since the new filter is a more restrictive 2-stage, (and for ease of bleeding), you'd certainly want it AFTER the mech. left pump, instead of before. Since it is a 2-stage, you can eliminate the small secondary filter mounted behind the air intake on the manifold.

On the newer filter base, there are three sets of wires... one pair, from the top of the new filter base power the fuel heater (Connect red wire to power wire that previously was connected to the in-line fuel heater hidden under the intake, black wire to a good ground).

The other 2 sets of wires are for a filter restriction indicater and a water-in-fuel sennsor. Since your old filter does not have them, you can simply ignore them. (Of course, your vehicle will still have the water-in-fuel sensor in the tank(s)).

[britannic]

I found a brand new FM100 (6.5LTD style) housing and cartridge conplete with heater and water sensor for $35.00 on ebay - it worked a lot better than the FM80 and was easier to service.

As others have said, there's a much better solution than the FM80, which was prone to leaks and not easy to service without spilling fuel.

[Robyn]

I installed a set of detroit 60 series fuel filters in my Hummer replica with the 6.2 and these are nice filters. You have the primary and secondary units and the primary has a water drain in it.
SOOOOOOOOO much better. Just plumb from the tank to the primary then to the lift pump and then through the secondary and to the IP

[NH2112]

Here's what you need for a fuel filter (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4543549337&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT). Use the 2-micron R90S element (or R45S if you want a smaller size) if you use the filter as a secondary, or an R90P (30-micron) if you use it as a primary filter. Better yet, buy 2 and use them as your primary and secondary filters. It has the integral primer pump for when you change filters, and to drain the bowl off you open the bowl drain and pump the water out with the hand pump. DIS sells these filters for approx. $130, and I just picked up 6 R90S elements from eBay for $60 (DIS price is about $25 each.)