my first rebuild

[Moses]

This is a great board, thanks to everyone

i recentily bought an '82 c20 with a red 6.2, my first diesel. The truck ran pretty well but the head gasket was blown. which was ok because i got a screamin' deal on the rig.

Anyway i took the heads off and have remounted the heads, replacing one. #8 was fairly pitted, is that from coolant in the cylinder?

i've found a lot of answers in here by searching around but my question presentily is what do i need to do to the pushrod/rocker/valve portion before i seal the cover on? i put a dab of grease where the rocker and valve stem contact, is that all the lube it needs?

and i might as well ask my next question now. . .
during tear-down i losened the injection pump before i realized that i did'nt need to remove it. i did not take it off the mount but i wonder if now i have to take it off and replace the the gasket that Chilton says is improtant to replace. Can't i just retighted it up to specs?

and lastly, is there any prep work or things to look out for in attaching the fuel lines? i failed to cap the injector nozzles (oops) and wonder what i should do to make sure theres no contamination/

Thanks to any one who cares to help!

[john8662]

The pitting you're seeing, is this on the cylinder walls, or on the top of the piston? If its the cylinder walls I would worry about good compression until the rings bite again, but its probably from the water/coolant sitting in the cylinder.

For the rockers, there is no adjustment, Just torque the bolts on the shafts to spec. For lube, the manual says to use engine oil to lightly coat the rockers (moving areas). Obviously going wild here will cause you difficulty with oil everwhere and sealing the valve covers.

If you just moved the pump on the flange, just line up the timing marks (if you moved it) and tighten it backup. The injection pump gaskets rarely tear, and are made not to, because of timing adjustments and moving the pump. But if you have nothing better to do, you could replace it, since you're there.

[Moses]

thanks a lot john

i guess i should lube the rocker/pushrod joint too?

well that's good news about the IP i'll just tighten it up. i did move it a bit, so i'll line up the timing marks. i am planning on taking it to the local experts after i put it back together for the finishing adjustments

the cilinders and piston tops looked good, except #1 looked like it ate a glow-plug at some point, the wall was unscared. The pitting on #8 was on the head side.

still courious about any prep work or things to look out for in attaching the fuel lines?

also i failed to cap the injector nozzles (oops) and wonder what i should do to make sure theres no contamination?

thanks again

[john8662]

About the injector nozzles, I basically pull my injectors if I know there is a chance that I'll knock some dirt in them with the lines off taking off valve covers and things like that, the intake doesn't count though. You could pull all the injectors and make sure you didn't get any dirt in them, if you did carefully remove the dirt. I don't know of a way to get it out once its really stuck inside. Most cases, if you got a little material in them, you can manually remove what you can, blow it out, wash it out, pick it out manually. Before putting the lines back on you'll probably want to blow the lines out, to remove anything you might have gotten in them. I usually take a can of WD40 with the straw, and stick the straw into the line hole and wash them out. After the WD40, you'll then take some compressed air and blow the WD40 out of the lines, then you can install them.

So, the cylinder head is pitted, as long as it's not pitted where the gasket is, then you should be in business.

[doncannon]

Moses,

You probably know from other areas to make sure you replace the heads in pairs if you need them. Just a though as I was reading. Good Luck! and keep us Posted on your progress.

Don

[Moses]

thanks Don, thanks to both of you.
things in the shop are going pretty good, kinda slow. i need that rig, because my back up is a '64 P30 gasser at 8mpg

i think somebody's already asked this . . .
i searched in here a bit. dry so far

The local guy told me to losen one injector to relieve system pressure and turn the starter 15 sec at a time. that seems like a helofa load for my beat-up starter.

Can i prime the system without the starter?

[Bill Siver]

I was just thinking about how nice it would be to have a hand primer for my truck. Has anyone ever added one to aid in bleeding injectors?

What I did to bleed my lines/injectors was remove the glowplugs, crack the injector lines, and then have someone crank the engine while I looked for fuel comming from the lines.

WARNING: I did have to replace my starter after doing this, but I can't say for sure if that is what did it. After trying to bleed my lines, I found that my starter had a flat spot, so it would just CLICK when attempting to engauge! Then I replaced it with another starter I had, but I had to take it appart to clock the back so I could attach the rear strap. I noticed when I had it appart that one of the brush straps was loose, but my Dad said it was fine. I put it in and guess what...it barely turned the engine over! Well I took it out and replaced it with a THIRD 6.2 starter I had in the garage! This one worked great.

Bill

[Moses]

Hey thanks Bill


So should i remove ALL the glow plugs and unscrew ALL the injectors a bit or just a couple of each or some other other combonation?


I also am worried about my starter having to do all the cranking to fill the lines and filters with fuel.

Is there some kind of hand primer available? And here would i find one?


thanks,
moe

[EWC]

You don't need to loosen the injector lines , leave them tight . When you remove the glow plugs , you effectively are removing the compression and just making the starter pump fuel through the entire system . Crank until you get a mist from the glow plug holes then put the glow plugs back in and try to restart .

[TimK]

Not too long ago I bought a Racor fuel filter for my Rover. The base comes with a priming plunger on it. It made it very convenient for purging the air out of the low pressure side of the fuel sysytem. When using the plunger I got more then 15 psi of pressure. I don't know exactly how much because it broke my fuel pressure gauge or at least it moved the pointer on its axis when it hit the peg.

I don't know if just pressurising the fuel filter side would get the air out of the injection pump. I think the pump has to rotate with with the incoming fuel under (normal) pressure un order for the air to be purged either out the injector or the return line.

I was able to get my Racor filter through my local NAPA store.

TimK

[Moses]

i am about 5 min or one exuast doughnut install from turnin' the key . . .


wish me well

THANKS,
Moe

[Moses]

well, it didn't start on the 23rd and i had to drop it for family gatherings but i drove around town in the beatiful beast today.

thanks again to every one for the sound advice.


don, i had already put on 1 used head when i read your post so i have 1 original and one from a engine that's a couple years newer. i replaced the head that was pitted on cyl. #8.... So, i guess i am stuck with what i've got for now, but i am courious as to why it's important to replace both?


take care, ya'll

[NH2112]

When you bleed the fuel system it's the air in the lines that you're getting rid of, and unless you crack the injector lines you'll just be compressing air against the 1800psi springs inside the injectors. Compression in the cylinder has nothing to do with this, but eliminating it will make the engine spin over easier and reduce the load on the starter.