DieselBoy: How's the TE06H Working Out for You?

[britannic]

DieselBoy: just wanted to know how that MHI TE06H turbo is working out for you?

[Dieselboy]

It's a whole new truck. I'm at that point right now where I'm learning to drive the engine again.

My dad got the suburban new in 85, and it is the first car I ever drove at age 9. It's all I've ever driven since I got my license, so I've been driving a naturally aspirated diesel daily for about seven years now, so this whole thing about not black smoking every time I pass someone is new to me. I'm sure I'll adjust quickly though.

Turbo lag is virtually non-existent. Generally, I keep it under 2000 rpm while in town, but when I have to pass somebody (or just want to tickle the boost gauge) I can get some great power in a hurry.

I can cruise 60mph at 1700 rpm in locked up 4th, and see 500F to 600F along with 2.5 psi. I have 4.10s right now, and when you put that together with my 35" BFGs, I need lower gearing. I 've been able to drive my father's 96 6.5TD a lot, and his drivetrain combination is good for 65 mph at 2000 rpm. That works out real well, so I'm thinking about 4.88s since 37" MTRs are in the works.

The Art-Carr 700 is working great, and I'll be adding a deep aluminum pan with a pressure gauge before too long.

Details that I added or modified:
Since the low pressure AC lines ran so close to the impeller side of the turbo, I went a head and wrapped both. I used DEI's turbo wrap kit, and used the fire sleeve on the AC lines.

I used insulating wrap on the entire crossover and downpipe. There sure is a lot of downpipe under the hood, and it runs very close to a lot of stuff, so it made sense to insulate. I also insulated a portion of the exhaust that passed by all my tranmission lines that fed the spin in filter. I insulated the entire length of both heater hoses.

I fabbed an extra hanger in front of the muffler that used the stock rubber isolater. Banks thinks that the single hanger they provide at the tailpipe is sufficient. Their Dynaflow muffler hung so low in stock form that it was actually lower than my rear driveshaft. That simply wouldn't do, so I reoriented it up higher, but that put the tailpipe at an upward angle. A single cut and TIG weld solved that, so now I have a nice high clearance exhaust.

I did get a change to do a stop light race. I'm an officer in my local offroad club, and get the regular jibes about 6.2Ls. Lots of people ate their words the other night when I went head to head with 1991 12V Cummins, and won.

Thanks again, Brittanic, for your help. I'll be posting the second half of the pictures today for your viewing pleasure.

[britannic]

It's really good to know that the formula is working for you as well, thanks for taking the time to share your experiences!!!!

I agree on the Bank's, it took me a couple of hours of tweaking to get that big silencer up above the bottom of the frame, plus I welded a new mount for the rear tail pipe and bolted a new hanger with isolator just in front of the muffler. My pipe is solidly held with enough give in it to prevent vibration fatigue fracturing the pipe.

My IP is now turned up another 1/8 of a turn from the 4911 base setting. It doesn't burn black, just a puff of brown as the turbo takes off. The key is to be in the right gear, I found it will accelerate fine in OD on the freeway if I don't step on it too hard from 1400rpm, but for a pedal to the metal moment, 3rd and 2nd are the business when I'm below 1800rpm.

My buddy has a 2002 Dodge Ram with a 24v Cummins and he drove my truck and said mine's quicker off the mark unloaded.

I can keep up and pass my other friend's Powersmoke any time below 60mph - it sure surprises guys driving powering up hills to see the old green milspec sticking like they're towing me :D !!

[Dieselboy]

That singular puff of smoke is my favorite part so far. I have yet to really push the motor. Just trying to take it one step at a time, but I think it's about time for a tow test.

I dug up my 16 extra injectors, and I'll need to get those set to 2100 psi here before too long.

I have been thinking about how an intercooler will change the way the engine makes boost. That much restriction on the intake side seems like it would increase lag, so changing the impeller and or housing would be able to counteract that, right?

Here are the pics with a writeup coming soon. OliverDiesel.com! (http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/6.2TD/banksturbo/)

[britannic]

You're correct about the intercooler, although a lot depends on the resistance and CFM it can flow. The TE06H can make a large volume of pressurized air very quickly, and if the EGTs are in range, the pump can be adjusted to give more exhaust gas, so the turbo will spool even quicker.

So my advice is fit the intercooler and see what it's like, before the compressor/turbine/housings need changing.

The turbo was designed with an intercooler in mind, so it should do really well.

[britannic]

Re: the injectors, when you're getting prices, check with Tim Wagner @ Accurate Diesel (http://www.cleaninjectors.com) on the rebuild cost to get them to 6.5LTD spec or better.

[CleviteKid]

If you guys don't tone down all this gushing over Turbo-this and Turbo-that, you are gonna get the Clevite Kid wishing he had one too. Now THAT would be something !!!

Dr. Lee ;)

[mhagie]

Dr. Lee, Its never to late to come over to the other side. :D

[Eric Deslauriers]

Nope, never, ever too late!

[Dieselboy]

Brittanic:
I spoke with Tim at Accurate Diesel about rebuilding my 6.2L long style injectors to 6.5TD specs. He was very helpful, and was more interested in making sure I got what I needed than what he could sell me. He said that I would be better finding a set of 6.5 short body injectors and having those rebuild to 2500 psi since they are an entirely different injector from the 6.2 style.

I'm a little confused on a couple of detals. I remember you had yours built to 2100, but he was quoting me 2500 as the rebuild pressure. Also, did you install actual 6.5 injectors, or did you rebuild your 6.2 injectors to 2100 psi?

[britannic]

I bought 6.5LTD rebuilds from Gomers Diesel in MT and was told the pop pressure was 142 bar or about 2060 psi.

When I was pricing the injectors, I asked a couple of shops about the 6.5LTD pop pressure and they put one on their test rig and measured between 2050-2100psi. The 6.2L injector is around 1500-1800psi.

The more pop pressure the better, but there is a limit to how much pressure the pump can handle, which is about 460 bar (6700 psi), so theoretically with 2 injectors per injection cycle, you could run 3350psi, so 2500psi (5000psi at the pump) would be great!

[gmctd]

Two injectors per injection cycle has been mentioned several times recently - is this in reference to Bosch injection pumps?

The Roosa Master pump has one charge and one discharge port per cylinder, with two opposed pumping plungers actuated per injection event per cylinder. The cam ring has 8 ramps for 8 cylinders, which would indicate one injector per cycle, n'est ci pas?

Explanation, please. smile.gif

jd

[britannic]

gmtcd: excellent points! I was basing my answers on information obtained from a rebuilder last year, but your post made me investigate it's accuracy.

The fuel enters the injection pump body and goes first to the transfer pump which does two things:

1. Loads the hydraulic head
2. Operates the Automatic Timing Advance Piston.

On the DB2 pump, as with most common distributor pumps, the transfer pump pressure rises directly with engine speed and that pressure pushes on the servo advance piston, which advances the injection timing as the engine speed increases. As the engine slows down, the transfer pressure drops and a spring returns the timing to the base timing setting.

Inside the DB2 is a single pumping element that supplies all eight engine cylinders. The actual pumping function is carried out in a single barrel which houses two opposing plungers. These plungers are pushed together by a lobed cam ring. The force of this action pressurizes the fuel. Since the number of lobes on the cam ring equals the number of cylinders in the engine and the IP rotates at 1/2 engine speed, each opposing thrust of the plungers by opposite cam lobes results in the distribution of a pulse of fuel to one particular cylinder as the discharge port aligns with the injector line outlet port.

The cam action on the rollers, along with the transfer pump at the fuel inlet end of the shaft, creates the high pressure hydraulic pump necessary to attain 1500psi or greater system pressure.

As the engine rpms climb, the transfer pump fuel pressure (not the lift pump) will rise from around 58psi to 102psi at full governed IP speed.

Tim Wagner at Accurate Diesel (http://www.cleaninjectors.com) told me the theoretical maximum pop pressure could be as much as the pump's design pressure (6,700psi). In practice, the pump would probably wear out very rapidly at that pressure if it was attainable.

gmtcd: many thanks for raising this issue and increasing our understanding!

[ 09-15-2003, 11:56 AM: Message edited by: britannic ]

[gmctd]

Excellent answer - I was considering a post on tne DB2-4911 pump compared to the 6.2 pumps as a general exersize - simple, but informative.
As only occasional interest surfaces, and your writing style is considerably smoother than mine, I have been letting the idea ride for a bit.

If I post, feel free to fill in numbers and specs. As most people here know, numbers just make my head hurt.

jd

[90LX]

Thanks for the info guys! I always like to know how stuff works. I've been wondering what the inside of the pump looked like and how it worked.