downpipe and starter issue ... I have contact

[snoman87]

The 4g copper wire line that goes from the starter selenoid to the starter passes right throught that path that the downpipe would take.

Question, can I simply bend the starter connection out of the way or do I have to disassemble the starter to re-route that connection.

[ 12-01-2005, 08:16 AM: Message edited by: snoman87 ]

[More Power]

Are you installing a Banks turbo? If so, and unless your starter wiring is non-typical, it should all fit fine.

Do you have a pic?

JIm

[snoman87]

I am installing an ATS Turbo ... I can get a pic but not right away.

[snoman87]

I definately have contact

Update ... the heat sheild that protects the starter selenoid is actually touching the ATS Turbo's exhaust manifold downpipe clamp. Not my much but there is physical contact there. I could remove heat sheild but then I would have the issue of the selenoid to starter wire touching the down pipe, which I could re route but it would get pretty hot where ever I put it. Is the gear reduction starter form a 6.5 going to be any smaller than my stock 6.2.

[john8662]

Yes, the gear reduction starter is dimensionally smaller than the 6.2 starter. Just for reference, the 6.2 starter that is the direct drive starter is called the 27MT starter, this is the heavy large electric motor version. The starter that we associate with the 6.5 that was actually installed on 88+ 6.2's is the 28MT gear reducton starter, because it uses gears and a smaller electric motor to do the job. In my experience, the 27MT starter cranks over the engine faster than it's replacement, the 28MT.

But, if you're having trouble with clearance issues due to the turbocharger exhaust system, then using the 28MT might make more sense.

So, could you shoot us a picture?

I don't have a "longblock" engine on a stand to install my ATS turbo manifold onto to check this currently.

Anyone else out there running the Early version ATS turbo setup?

[CleviteKid]

On the issue of 27MT vs. 28MT, I agree with John. The 27MT will spin your engine faster if, I say IF, everything else is up to snuff, including cables, connections, batteries, and the brushes in the starter.

The 28MT is supposed to draw less current, but power (watts) is volts times amps, so if it draws less current, it is using less electrical power, and probably delivering less mechanical power.

My personal opinion is that a couple of powder metallurgy gears are cheaper than a lot of copper windings, so the starter is cheaper when you buy it in the quantities that GM does. Lower cost was probably the driver, and lower weight was better for GM, too.

Dr. Lee :cool:

[snoman87]

So it makes sense that I want to stay with my 27MT ... I will try to get a snap of my clearance issue and post it today.