View Full Version : how to disable EPR
snoman87
11-10-2005, 10:58
John8662 suggested that is trash the EPR setup (flapper that's in the driver's side exhaust manifold).
How do I do that, constant vacum or no vacum?
john8662
11-10-2005, 12:39
This could get dicey...
Since you already have the crossover pipe for your ATS turbo, then you'll have to determine if the exhaust manifold that the crossover was used last on had the EPR valve or not.
If if did, and you remove the EPR valve from your exhaust manifold then you'll likely have to extend the crossover pipe to compensate, but maybe not.
To disable the EPR valve, all you have to do is not supply it any vacuum, just leave the hose disconnected. It takes vacuum to close the valve, and block the exhaust.
Take a look at your Driver's side exhaust manifold. You'll see a flapper inside if you've got the EPR. If you have this, you can make sure that it can't move or close, or you can remove the EPR valve from the exhaust manifold.
The route that I'm going to take is to completly remove the valve from the manifold, in my eyes, this will be less exhaust restriction in the manifold.
To remove the EPR valve from the manifold, all you have to do is use some really good vice grips, and then unscrew the studs that the exhaust pipe would have connected to. Or, you can buy a 9/16" stud extractor and use it to grip the stud and unscrew it from the manifold.
To use the exhaust manifold, you'll then need the shorter exhaust studs, and just put your exhaust doughnut that was attached to the EPR valve.
This is what I'm doing on my 6.2 for the '86.
arveetek
11-10-2005, 14:00
When I installed my turbo using Banks' manifold and crossover pipe, I also removed the EPR valve. However, I discovered that Banks intended for the crossover pipe to bolt up to the EPR valve. Therefore, the crossover pipe was just a little too short to reach up to the bottom of the exhaust manifold. I ended up cutting the crossover pipe, and welding in a short section of pipe so that it would fit up to the exhaust manifold.
I felt like the EPR valve would still be restrictive, even in the open position. The diameter of the crossover pipe is small enough as it is without having a piece of metal stuck inside of it to make it worse.
Casey
snoman87
11-10-2005, 14:03
I have a 2wd crossover pipe that I will need to modify to clear the front drive shaft so removing it doesn't create all that much more work for me right now anyway ... it's gone.
Thanks for the input smile.gif
I removed the valve and shaft, threaded the hole in the manifold and screwed in a short bolt coated in JB Weld. I think there was only one hole, but it's been a few years. Easier than dealing with changing the placement of the exhaust pipe.
I was thinking you could do something similar to what jcomp did - remove the butterfly and shaft, then tap the holes for small pipe plugs or allen head setscrews. IIRC the EPR manifold is a separate piece that you can remove to modify if necessary.
CleviteKid
11-11-2005, 13:41
Removing the flapper and plugging the shaft holes is a good idea, but I would not trust JB Weld at the EGT's our trucks can run. I would use the NPT pipe tap and jam in a pipe plug good and tight, and let it oxidize into place. After a couple of months it will NEVER come out.
Dr. Lee :cool:
snoman87
11-14-2005, 09:57
Well, the manifold that I have does have a EPR valve. I got the exhaust off without snapping the studs off now I have try and remove the studs so I can put the shorter ones in and use the crossover tube that came this it. Funds are getting short so I will have to do the custom crossover later.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.