83' 6.2 and 85' Harness- Q

[snoman87]

Here is the scope ... just got all the bugs worked out from my cab swap and now I am getting ready for the 6.2TD transplant (with J code intake). I have the complete 83' 6.2C from a Jimmy that I am transplanting into a 86' gasser truck. Got everything I need from the 83 so there is not a problem there (fuel filter line and everything). I also have a 85' 6.2C harness, fuel filter and lines available. The 85' has the stock single element fuel filter that I do beleive is heated and better glow plug controler. As I am in the north I thought these might be advantagious to have installed.

Q. Will I be able to swap the 85' harness onto the 83' engine, re-route the fuel lines and install the 85 fuel filter assemble?

I don't have any of the sensors or stuff from the 85' engine, would the ones on the 83' be the same.

[john8662]

The '85 harness will work fine on the 83 engine, with a few additions of course.

You already know that you're going to need the newer glow controller (a BIG plus).

The 85+ harnesses usually had an additional glow plug inhibit switch mounted on the passenger's side block off plate on the head. This switch doesn't have to be used, as a matter of fact, I'd leave it off, which will give you more reliable glows. Just be aware of the extra connector you'll find in that area, and that the wires will need to be shunted.

The fuel lines will have to be changed.

I actually like one thing about the 82-83 fuel filter system, in that the lift pump is being fed filtered fuel. The downside to the earlier system is that you had to keep track of two filters (primary and secondary) and they are an absolute pain to purge the air out of. The 84+ model 80 fuel system is what you're after, because it has water separation and filtration in the same filter, and an easy way to purge the air out after a filter change. So you're onto the right track in wanting this filter.

So, for your fuel routing, you'll feed the lift pump at the frame rail. Then leave one of the metal lines that goes up into the valley of the engine underneath the intake, and make it connect to your new input on the square filter on the firewall. Then the output line goes directly to the injection pump and is a 1/4" rubber/viton line.

The existing 83 setup will get it's fuel off the firewall first, then send a metal line accross the valley down to the lift pump, then back up to the valley to the secondary fuel filter sitting on the back of the intake. From the secondary filter, the fuel line will attach directly to the injection pump.

I've done this exact swap :D

[snoman87]

You already know that you're going to need the newer glow controller (a BIG plus).yep ... got the new controler somewhere ... can't find it right now :confused: I was also going to relocate it somewhere on the firewall or drivers side inner fender


..... Just be aware of the extra connector you'll find in that area, and that the wires will need to be shunted.Shunted ... that's jumpered to creat a consistant current right?


The fuel lines will have to be changed....for your fuel routing, you'll feed the lift pump at the frame rail. Then leave one of the metal lines that goes up into the valley of the engine underneath the intake, and make it connect to your new input on the square filter on the firewall. Then the output line goes directly to the injection pump and is a 1/4" rubber/viton line.I was actually thinking of getting a inline electric pump and blocking off the mechanical pump. I was thinking of routing the fuel like this:
Tank Switcher -> Inline Lift Pump -> Model 80 Fuel System -> Infector Pump
- the lift pump is where rubber hose gap between fuel hardlines is on a 3+3, located just about under the rear passanger seat tucked inside the frame.

Then in the future:
Tank Switcher -> Inline Filter -> Inline Lift Pump -> Heated (or heat wrapped) Fuel Line -> Aftermarket Filter Assembly on firewall -> Infector Pump

I need reliable starts at -25C so I figure the more fuel heating the better.

Does that make sense? I am going to try to swap over harnesses this week then, thank-you

[john8662]

Shunted, yes, just cross the connections. It's an inhibit switch, so all it does is make a connection when the temperature is at or below a certain range.

I like your fuel routing strategy, should work just fine.

Just a note though, you'll need some sort of block off plate where the lift pump was. The good news is that you can get one off a gasser. The lift pump plate for the 6.2 is the same bolt pattern and size shared by the small block Chevy engines. So, you could get a plain plate pretty cheap somewhere.

[NH2112]

Where will you be mounting the electric fuel pump? If back by the tank you might want to use an inline filter (Fram G2 or equivalent) to keep junk out of the pump. If you're mounting it in the engine compartment, I'd plumb the model 80 filter ahead of the pump as the primary filter, and use a Racor or similar filter with 2-micron rating as your secondary.

[snoman87]

Originally posted by john8662:
The 85+ harnesses usually had an additional glow plug inhibit switch mounted on the passenger's side block off plate on the head. This switch doesn't have to be used, as a matter of fact, I'd leave it off....Do you remember the colors ... they wouldn't happen to be green and yellow? I swapped last night and that was the only wire left so they must be!!!

Two more questions:
1) There seems to be a couple vacume switches on the drivers vavle cover. The two outlets on the one with the red plug have no hoses on them ... Where were they supposed to go?

1) One glow plug wire was cut, are there any special procedures required for splicing a new on onto the cut end?

[john8662]

You're using a J series intake right?

If so, I'd totally ignore the solenoids on the driver's side valve cover. Just disconnect the connections and take the switches off the valve cover. Bundle up the connectors in some electrical tape and forget them. These solenoids are for the EGR and EPR.

The EPR is a flapper that's in the driver's side exhaust manifold, that will semi-close to warm the engine up quicker, I'd trash that setup as well.

As far as splicing one wire back together, solder the connection then insulate it with electrical tape.

I don't remember what the color of wire is for the inhibit switch, I'll check on my pickup (that's missing it's engine) and identify the colors tonight.

[snoman87]

NH2112 ...
The pump was going to be inline about half way between the tank switcher and current gasser fuel pump. There is a rubber hose break between the reg cab hardline and extended hardline for the crew cab. A inline filter would be a great idea, thanks.

Do you have any issues priming the system with the model 80 in front of the pump? I could route the fuel from the hardline into a primary filer (83 style or model 80) then to the hardline that supplies fuel to the secondary filter. Lots of options coming out of the wood work now tongue.gif

[snoman87]

Yep, going to "J" code intake, trash it you say ... very cool the more I can remove from it the better.

I'll just shunt those two wires, splice in a new glow plug wire call and remove the EGR and EPR stuff. If it's easy to see colors they would be awsome but don't hurt yourself looking!!

[snoman87]

I am concerned about the amount of what appears to be blowby coming from all the rubber fittings in the CDR system. However, they are all cracked and that might be why there is oil everywhere, especially the hose below the CDR itself ... ripped wide open!!!

That make me wonder if I should bolt the on or not.

[john8662]

Yeah, there is actually quite a bit of oil that collects over time in the CDR system.

You won't be using the connections with the turbo setup, you'll take off the CDR plumbing and plug the holes in the intake. Then a 1" hose is used from the bottom of the CDR valve into the turbo manifold.

You're using ATS, but until recently I thought the ATS systems were just the same, which version do you have?

[snoman87]

Originally posted by john8662:
You're using ATS, but until recently I thought the ATS systems were just the same, which version do you have?Mine looks alot like this one:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/82dieselburb/d4_12_sb.jpg

How about yours, I have seen pics of one that looks very similar to the banks setup also.

[ 10-25-2005, 10:20 AM: Message edited by: snoman87 ]

[john8662]

Nice picture!

We've got the same setup then.

I've got to get the upper manifold piece repaired though, it looks as though it was set on a manifold and wasn't centered on the groove of the intake manifold. So it was loose and rubbed a new groove anyways. So, I'm thinking of welding it up and then machining it back down, although the people I've had look at it don't seem to want to play.

On the setup that we have there is a hose connection on the intake plenum that is where the bottom part of the CDR canister will connect to via hose. So you won't have to worry about those silly boots on the engine when you install it in your truck.

[snoman87]

I figured that ... I was just concerned with the amount of oil. It almost looks the the valve cover and timing cover are leaking. Granted a little of the oil could actually be from the valve cover or timing cover. I will be replacing the passanger valve cover when I do the turbo so I am not worried about that.

[NH2112]

The way I primed mine with the mechanical pump was to just open the air bleed on the secondary and use the built-in primer. With the electric pump I just open the bleeder and turn the key on.

[snoman87]

what can I use to plug off the 82'-83' glow plug control sensor that sits on the top side, at the back, of the drivers side head?

I have got to remove it to take the TV cable stuff off so I might as well plug it.

[john8662]

keep the TV cable braket and lever because someone on here will need it if they're doing a TH400 to TH700 conversion, and they're getting harder to find now.

For the block off plate, you'll just need the regular plate that goes on later 6.2's and all 6.5's. It's just a flat plate thats the same shape as the one with the knockout for the glow controller is now. If all else fails, you can get one at the dealer, or go to a salvage yard and look.

[snoman87]

Thanks for the tip on the TV cable ... I just installed the 85' harness, valve cover modified for ATS oil return, J-code intake, re-routed the fuel lines (not sure I like the routing yet) and ordered some on the block off plates, gaskets, and misc items that I need ... Electic fuel pump is also in place. tongue.gif

Now I have got to pull the engine off the frame and put it on a stand to swap the turbo stuff on, build a crude exhaust to get me to the muffler shop and drop it in.

Eventually I will create some relays that power the lift pump when the key is in the start position and when the truck has oil presure ... that way if the engine dies so will the fuel pump ... only draw back is if I loose oil presure, but then again I shouldn't be driving with no oil pressure ;)

Moving along slowly
smile.gif

[snoman87]

Originally posted by john8662:
I actually like one thing about the 82-83 fuel filter system, in that the lift pump is being fed filtered fuel. The downside to the earlier system is that you had to keep track of two filters (primary and secondary) and they are an absolute pain to purge the air out of. The 84+ model 80 fuel system is what you're after, because it has water separation and filtration in the same filter, and an easy way to purge the air out after a filter change. So you're onto the right track in wanting this filter.I picked up a delphi fuel pump designed for a 90's 6.5, I think that should do the trick.

Should I put the 83' Primary (10 micro) filter line before the lift pump?