Which to choose - Banks or GM turbo system

[84 C2B2]

I've been reading a few of the posts on addinga turbo system to the 6.2 and this is what I see so far.

A stock 6.5 system would require modifying the A/C evap box or going to a S-10/S-15 evap box. The downpipe and crossover could cause some problems but the majority of the parts can be had on EBay for cheap.

The Banks kit is pretty much ready made. You can pick and choose parts you want to buy but it gets pretty expensive. I already have most of the exhaust system froma Stinger purchase years back.

Did most of you start with the Banks kit and modify it with what seems to be the TE06 turbo and downpipe? Have you done anyhting to the crossover pipe such as jet hot coating and protecting it from the environment?

Lastly, who has the best prices for a Banks kit if that's the way I go?

Thanks for any help.

Jerry

[Dieselboy]

All that you really need from the Banks kit is the exhaust manifold and crossover pipe. Pick your turbo from there just as long as it has a straight exit like the TE06H.

The Banks airbox is pretty, but it's not necessary as one can fab an intake easily using pipe and a cone filter. The plenum is pretty too, but a superior unit can be hand made.

Wrapping the crossover pipe keeps heat energy inside the exhaust before the turbo, and that decreases lag and helps overall efficiency.

If I had it to do over again, I would go with the Banks exhaust, manifold, crossover pipe, turbo oil feed/drain, but fab the rest myself. That cuts a few hunderd dollars of the price tag, and in my opinion one would end up with a better setup.

The Banks kit is a perfect option for someone that just wants basic turbo power, but isn't terribly interested in tuning past that. Not many here fit that description. ;)

[catmandoo]

dieselboys right all you really need is the banks right side ex manifold,and the crossover pipe.also the one i have is tapped from the bottom side for a pyro and this will need to go in before you mount the manifold as it's in one heckova spot.and if you have a pre 87 that uses a mechanical lift pump you will need to tap into the oilpan for a place for the oil to drain.if 88 up you can take the cover off from where the pump used to be and weld a pipe on it for a drain.

[TimK]

I like the idea of using the mechanical lift pump location for the oil drain back connection. I am currently in the process of replacing my motor with a DSG 6.2L Diesel Drop in Motor and I am also purchasing a Banks Turbo kit.

I would like your opinion. Since I have the motor completely out of the truck, should I do the conversion now to an electrical lift pump and blank off the location of the mechanical lift pump or stay with the mechnical pump?

TimK

[84 C2B2]

TimK,

I'm going to go with an electric pump and a pre-filter (Racor) setup. I believe Dr. Lee did this to his truck and his procedure is in one of the yearly publications from the dieselpage.

Jerry

[Peter J. Bierman]

If your mechanical liftpump is working OK, I would stay with it, you can put a electrical one in front off it for better starting.
A typical electrical pump will put out 3 to 5 psi wile the mech will do like 7 to 12 psi meaning better feeding, better performance an more fuel flowing trough the injectionpump and keeping it cooler.
Not everything newer is better :D

Peter

[rhill2901]

When I installed my turbo, I went ahead and went with an electric pump. It made the job easier and I get around 6-7 psi of fuel pressure at the filter drain.

[jcomp]

I also recommend an electric pump. I just finished converting mine to electric (also just finished putting in my new engine :D ). The area around the mechanical pump becomes very crowded with the banks system. You've got the fuel lines to the pump, the crossover, the EGT probe wire, the lift pump, the turbo oil drain and the fuel return line all trying to occupy the same space. If I had known in advance what a PITA it was to work around that pump, I would have done the electric conversion when I put in the turbo system.

I'm using a holley red pump, it's factory preset to approx. 7 PSI.

[Fumes]

I have a Banks setup on my Van (6.2) and it came with an adapter plate to use with the mechanical pump, which I still am using. The return oil dumps in through this plate and you can retain the mechanical pump.

[JFT]

All said, it sounds like with a proper exhaust and crossover you can mount any turbo with a proper exit route on the 6.2. I just learned the only way to control boost is with a waste gate. I was curious about this because I found a set up that was installed and broke the crank. Too much boost maybe. The turbo is a "ROTO MASTER FLOW". Now I have spotted a $500 6.5 with 130K(fire damage)and this 6.2 with turbo and broken crank for $700. Hate to remove my present 6.2 or beak it with a turbo that is too hot. Will waste gate work off of the 6.5?
89 Suburban woes. Maybe I should just but a 97 and quit whining. I just love my 89 3/4.

[C.K. Piquup]

Stay with the`89,it`s a real truck.The Banks system is non-wastegated,but should be safe.It was supplied to many 6.2s as option before the 6.5TD hit the floor.Definately need to watch boost and EGT #s.Alot of failed cranks w/o turbo,probably coincidence.yes,if you go with the 6.5,you can keep wastegate operable.

[catmandoo]

yeah the banks is pretty much made that you can't over boost em,i know i've had the coals to mine and the most i have ever seen is 7lbs,i do wish i could get up to 10-12 though.

[grape]

build your own.........you'll be happier

[britannic]

FYI: The "britannic special" took the Banks OEM turbo off the scale of my 15psi gauge quite regularly.


Originally posted by catmandoo:
yeah the banks is pretty much made that you can't over boost em,i know i've had the coals to mine and the most i have ever seen is 7lbs,i do wish i could get up to 10-12 though.