Main berring torq and more...

[dieselcrawler]

I finally did it, I pulled the motor out of my K-30 work truck. It's on a stand, and I've pulled the oil pan, and rear main berring cap. Berring looks good, as does the crank. I also plan to pull the rest of the berring caps, and to look for any cracks. I don't expect to find any, it's a CUCV block.
However, after I've had all the berring caps off, one at a time, and am ready to torq the cap bolts, what pattern should I use, as in, the order in which they should be tightend, and to what ft/lbs?
Also, I was looking at the area near the oil filter. My truck has an oil cooler, and the lines go into the block above the oil filter. I have a turbo to put on my truck, and was told that this is where you plumb in the oil line for the turbo. Do you have to put a "tee" in one of the cooler lines, or what? I don't see a 3rd hole in the block, no plugs. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Greg

[dieselcrawler]

A few more things to add....
I bought a gasket kit from the local Advance Auto Parts, it includes head gaskets stamped with felpro stamped in them. Are they worth using? I was gonna change them, I've got the motor out of the truck, and every thing is easy to get to. Even if they are cheap ones, I would think new is better than 21 year old ones.
Rear Main seal: The one I took out was cloth/rope type. The new one in the gasket kit is reinforced rubber. I'm guessing I should be able to slide it in around the crank once it's lubed up, and all main caps are lose. Any tips?
Gaskets and/or high temp RTV silicone: I plan to use the gaskets with a thin coat of RTV... There were no gaskets at all when I removed the oil pan and valve covers.

Greg

[Dieselboy]

Originally posted by DieselCrawler:
[QB...I have a turbo to put on my truck, and was told that this is where you plumb in the oil line for the turbo. Do you have to put a "tee" in one of the cooler lines, or what? I don't see a 3rd hole in the block, no plugs. Any ideas?[/QB]Look above the oil filter lines for a 1/4 NPT plug. I believe that a taps directly from the pump, so your turbo will see freshly filtered oil.

[dieselcrawler]

Found the plug in the block by the oil filter/cooler lines. Just hadn't poked around with a screwdriver enough yet... knocked off another chunk of mud and there it was... came out easy with a 1/4" drive ratchet and small extention.

Greg

[john8662]

The Felpro headgaskets are the ones you want, use nothing else. The oil pan doesn't need a gasket except for the rear pan oil seal on the back. Just use RTV after a good cleaning.

[dieselcrawler]

I'm just about to try to slide the rear main seal into place... but what do I torq the main cap bolts to when I put the cap back on?

Thanks,
Greg

[BobND]

Don't forget the anerobic sealant between the rear main cap and the block!

[john8662]

For the main cap bolts you'll use two different values, one for the insides and one for the outsides.

Being a 4 bolt main,

you'll torque the inside bolts to 110 ft. lbs.
(the insides are "o")

x o o x

Then torque the outsides to 100 ft. lbs.

I always do these in a sequence, first coat the threads with engine oil, then torque the inside bolts to an initial valve, I use 25 at first, then work up to 50, then 75, then to the final value.

You'll start with the insides, say at the 25 value, then do the outside bolts on that cap to, until they are all 25, you're basically trying to pull this cap down equally. I also want to note that you won't actually pull the cap down with the bolts, but it has to be in place fully before inserting the bolts. I torque them all down gradually to 100 ft lbs. then go back to the inside bolts and do the final 110 ft. lbs.

[dieselcrawler]

Thanks John, I found the 100/110 ft/lbs for inner and outer cap bolts posted elsewhere, and the way you discribed the sequence is basicly how I did it.

However, when I had the caps off, I did find a few cracks in the main webs. In 3 or 4 places, fine, hair line cracks, radiating from the outer main cap bolt hole and down the side of the web. Oh well, it was running good when I pulled it, put it back to gether, and run it...
I also ran into this: When I pulled the hex shaped rod that drives the oil pump, the plastic ring at the end of it, where it goes into the pump, broke. Is this needed, or would a new one come with a new oil pump? I was going to replace it, untill I found the cracks in the webs... Maybe I should replace it anyway?
I pulled the heads off. All looks nice inside, all the cylender walls look great, you can still see the cross hatching, and there is almost no ridge at the top edge. Tops of all the pistons look nice, smooth even coating of combustion residue. Heads and valves look nice. I still need to clean them up, and hope to put them back on tomorrow. Do I need to replace the head bolts? Are they the torque-to-yeild type, or can they be reused? And what is the ft/lbs?
If the webs are cracked, should I even think about putting the turbo on it? If I do put on the turbo, and decide to keep the mech lift pump, where would be a good place to dump the turbo oil? Is there any way it could be ran into the oil filler neck, or that area? Just an idea, haven't really looked at it close yet, but maybe you could tap a hole into the timeing chain cover... And sugjustions for a electric fuel pump? Make, model, cost?
I am going to gut the wiring harness, and remove a bunch of junk that is no longer used. In doing this, I will also install mechanical temp and oil gages. For the oil, I plan to install a 'tee', so as to keep the current 'low pressure' light, and to have the lbs gage. For the temp, from what I konw the sending unit in the left head, at the front, is the one used for the gage. Is this correct, and if I remove it, and no longer use the idiot light on the dash, I can use this hole for the mechanical temp gage? No adverse affects on the rest of the truck, nothing else gets info from that sending unit?

Sorry this got so long, I just have a lot to learn and ask, and just hope I'm putting this thing back together the right way. Thanks...

Greg

[john8662]

Gregg,

Yeah the clip that holds the oil pump drive rod you should replace. They will always break, you can go down to your local auto parts store and get one, they'll now what you need.

Sorry to hear that you found main webbing cracks, the cracks are not good, but since it's running fine you can just put it back together and get some more use out of the block. Most of them don't grenade, and are cracked for a long time, it's just when you pull it apart for a rebuild one of these days that you will be finding another block.

The head bolts are TTY, and shouldn't be re-used, well that is if you don't want to do a head gasket replacement again.

For the torque you will probably need the sequence (I don't have a copy of that online, but I'll look), but for the torque you will need Follow this sequence, first just finger tight, then 20 ft/lbs, then 50, then 90 degrees.

Turbo? I would go ahead and install it, you're not going to hurt it any, damage already done, cracked webs...

For the oil drain, you will do best leaving your mechanical lift pump, but you're going to have to make your own drain tube plate. find a spare fuel pump plate, a SBC gasser plate is the same, just in case you have one of those too. Then modify the plate and braise your tube in place. Here is a pic off Banks' website, to help you make your own, you don't even want to ask how much they want for that plate, it's over $100!


http://www.bankspower.com/im_articles-images/4x4garage-premiere-images/4x4-3.jpg

For your question abou the temp sender, yes, you'll use the space on the drivers side head front for the sender, thats all that spot will is for. The space on the passenger side rear of the head is a sensor/switch for the HPCA or fast idle and timing advance when cold.

[dieselcrawler]

Looks like I can fab up the drain line for the turbo oil with no problem... thanks for the pic's. I didn't get to work on the ol' truck much this weekend, but did get the new head bolts, new oil pump, and fuel lift pump.

Thanks,
Greg

[dieselcrawler]

I finally found some time to work on the truck this past weekend. Got the oil pump and oil pan on, put the heads on, with the new head bolts. Cleaned the bolt holes out with a tap as sugjested by the instructions with the new bolts, and torked them to 50 ft/lbs, then 1/4 turn more, also per the instructions. This came out to about 95 ft/lbs, sounds low to me...
I mocked up the turbo set up, all looks to work well. Can I put a tee in where the oil pres. sending unit goes for the oil line to the turbo? The line that came with the turbo is only long enough to go to there. Or can I put my oil pres. sending unit in the plug near the oil filter? They look to be the same size, and come from the same place in the motor. I hope to work on the lift pump plate oil return later this week.

thanks,
Greg