Transmission is out. now I have questions

[4x4Dreamer]

I've currently got the transmission out to fix some issues with it, and I am leaking oil. I'll probably end up replacing the rear main seal while the trans is out since I never want to have to deal with dropping that again. I was going to use a Fel Pro BS40529 2 piece rubber seal, any good? I have the R&R manual from this site, which is like gold, so I think i can get through the procedures. WHile I have this stuff out, is there anything else on the back of the engine I want to check? Anything that I wont have access to when the transmission is back in? I've also read to not buy a gasket for the oil pan, to just use RTV.

Any info you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

[john8662]

The seal you have found is the correct seal, thats the better seal to replace the factory rope seal that you'll find internaly.

I think that replacing the rear main seal is actually easier with the transmission in the truck because on a 4x4 you have the clearance necessary to remove the oil pan w/o removing the engine mount bolts and lifting up the engine.

So, my question, how are you supporting the engine now that the transmission is missing in action?

Being that the 83 model 6.2's had a two piece rear main seal, you just remove the oil pan, then oil pump, then rear main bearing cap, and then work, and replacement in reverse order.

Some parts you'll need for the project:

Your two-piece seal kit.
Big Tube of Black RTV for oil pan
Safety Razor Blades for getting RTV off pan and block
Brake Parts Cleaner, for cleaning out seal area in block and cap
Anerobic sealant, this will be used on bearing cap to block surface on a small area only.

You'll also need a torque wrench for assembly.

Things to look at, while you're in there.

Cross your fingers, and look at the main bearing main webbing in the engine for cracks. What you'll be looking for are cracks that usually start on the outside bolt holes on the 4 bolt main. These will start where the main cap contacts the block and go up. If you're in good shape here, consider installing a stud girdle kit.

Since you have the rear main bearing off, you will also want to look at the condition of the bearing itself. If you had good oil pressure before all of this, then don't worry too much about it.

[4x4Dreamer]

Now the guide I bought here (the R&R guide) says I have to pull the starter, I was hoping to not have to.
It said I didn't have to pull the flex plate...I was going to. Is there and advantage/disadvantage to doing that?

It doesn't sound like too bad of a job, and will bring peace of mind...and one step closer to adding a turbo. Thanks for the info.

[4x4Dreamer]

OH, sorry, forgot to answer your question. Currently I have the oil pan supported, I was thinking I could put a jackstand under the flexplate to hold it while I'm working...it will be in the way, but what's a guy to do?

[john8662]

I just love projects like these!

I almost say that it would be best to get the transmission problems solved, then concentrate on the oil leak, but when you're down, you do have the opportunity.

I don't think that using the flexplate to support the back of the engine is healthy for the flexplate (very light construction) nor is it safe for you to be working under. These engines are externally balanced, so the possibility of bending the flexplate could be detremental to the engine.

I'd suggest that you borrow or find an engine hoist to support the engine so you can remove the jack under the oil pan. This will be the best route.

Just like the guide says, you'll be removing the starter, not too bad of a deal, once you've done it a few times :D which most of us have... Don't worry about removing the flexplate, it's not necessary, and the less you remove the better.

[4x4Dreamer]

Suck...nobody I know has an engine hoist. I may have to wait until i get the transmission back in...which will probably be this weekend. Either way I guess.

[Subzilla]

I did not remove my starter to do my oil pan. But it would have given me a little more working space if I had. Good luck and watch out for oil drips in the eye! ;)

[4x4Dreamer]

Yeah, I got tranny fluid in my eye...needless to say "OUCH".

I'm hoping to be back on the road by next weekend, I don't have too much left.

The project I"m looking forward to the least...replacing my vacuum pump. That thing is IMPOSSIBLE to get to. You'd think a Ford engineeer designed it. :eek:

[john8662]

I hope you're kidding about the vacuum pump. If you can remove the tranny and oil pan to replace the rear main seal, you should have no problem with the vacuum pump. Just remove the air cleaner and loosen the 15mm bolt down below with an extension and rotate the pump, and pull..

[jcomp]

Since you're there anyway, check your flexplate for cracks around any of the bolt holes and also for missing teeth.

When I did my rear main seal, I managed to drop one of the main cap bolts onto my forehead. My truck loves to watch me bleed. :D

[doncannon]

Hello All,

4x4: If you have the trans out you may want to replace the front seal. When I replaced the rear main engine seal I did not have to remove the starter although I did find the pickup tube off the oil pump :eek: You may even consider painting the oil pan like I did because: it will show where oil still leaks (hopefully does not) and kept my pan from rusting more. I had to replace it after adding the turbo! Yes the trans fluid does hurt ouch and aalfalkdfaflk...you know?

John8662: where do you get a stud girdle kit?

jcomp: while i am laughing i really wonder if my truck likes hurting me too! (that was funny)
hope this helps,
Don

[4x4Dreamer]

I dropped a ratchet on my head once, that bled for a while. Right on the forehead too. It's amazing how you can string cuss words together when things hurt like that.

Every seal in my trans has been replaced, I rebuilt it. So it should be good to go. I have a new rear seal on my Tcase too, so I shouldn't be leaking any fluid. I do seem to be leaking coolant from somewhere, I think someone said there's a crossover in the back of the engine?? I'll have to check that.

Good info on checking the flexplate, I'll give that a good look this weekend. I may also go ahead and paint my oil pan. I may even take a rubber mallet to my oilpan and try to get the dent out of it...the middle got pushed in a little someohow. What sucks is that I JUST changed the oil...

I've been driving a 92 Isuzu pickup lately...I really miss driving my 6.2. Nothing else feels like a diesel.

[john8662]

Don,

The stud girdle kit is available from Diesel Services Group www.dieselservices.com (http://www.dieselservices.com)

[NH2112]

Since we're talking about injuries, sorta, here's one I remember. While bleeding the brakes on one of my old Dodges, I told my friend to hold the pedal while I loosened the bleeder, and just as I turned the wrench I said to myself "this is not good, being able to see directly into the blee..."SQUIRT!! Right in the eyes. I asked my friend to read on the bottle to see if brake fluid was dangerous to get in your eyes, and after his slow-reading self finished he told me it didn't give any specific warnings. "OK," I said. "Let's finish bleeding the brakes then I'll go rinse my eyes out." :D