Freeing up stuck rings. Ideas?

[libtec]

Thanks for looking!
My 90 6.2 burns about a quart or more of oil for every tank of fuel. Recently I did a road trip, 360 miles one way, and burned two and a half quarts of oil. When I fueled up for the return trip I topped the oil off and checked it every hundred miles on the way back. I didn't burn any oil on the return trip or running around town for the next week. The only thing I can figure is a ring was stuck, worked loose and got stuck again. Is this possible or is there another item I should be thinking about.
I started driving this suburban around september 21, six months ago, prior to that it had been sitting for over two years. The previous owner(s) more than likely let the motor idle for long periods. When we first got the motor going we had to rev it hard a couple times to get all the valves working and there was a bad injector "knock" that worked itself out after a week. Two things that make me think there was and still is a gummed up motor to some extent.
I have read that some people suggest running a quart of ATF or mystery oil with the motor oil to help loosen up a stuck ring and injectors. Is this a good idea? Is there an actual product that is effective in "cleaning out" a diesel with possible carbon / gunk build-up?
Thanks in advance for any advice.

John. smile.gif

[libtec]

I forgot to mention why I wrote the first message.
About a week after I got back from the trip my motor started burning oil again.

Thanks!

[G. Gearloose]

Uhm, so you drove a week with a bad injector knock?

A compression test will give you more tangible data.

I suspect there is no snake oil cure for that engine, but you don't have much to loose, except the bottom end perhaps.

[john8662]

If you have stuck rings, there isn't much you can do about it except an engine oil flush. You can purchase a product made by "Gunk" that is engine flush. This stuff smells like Diesel/Kerosene mixed together. It comes in a quart can, there are also similar products. Basically wait until you are one quart low, and ready for an oil and filter change. Add the flush to the engine oil after the engine is up to operating temperature. Run the engine for 5-10 minutes at idle, do no drive. I have done the 10 minute duration, no problems, as long as you have oil pressure. Then, drain the oil fully, change the oil filter, add new oil. What oil are you running anyways (brand/weight)? IF you have a stuck ring, the flush should help to free it because the oil will be come solvent like and thin, can allow the oil to reach small areas, and ring seats in pistons.

[K10ANDY]

drain the oil , fill it with diesel and run for 2 minutes MAX . then change the oil .it may work. its an old school trick . -Andy

[libtec]

Thanks for the ideas!
The "snake oil" idea makes me nervous. The motor runs really good, smooth idle, good pull (for a 90), reliable since I worked out my previoius starting problems, I'd hate to risk it if more damage is a possibility.
One issue a coworker told me about was possibility that the case vaccume (forgot the name) unit in the intake might not be working causing case pressure to leak the oil out while I'm driving. The rear main does leak but it never leaves a puddle when I park it, but there is plenty of wet / sort of fresh oil from the back and on the tranny. I just found out about this possibility today and am going to check it tonight.
Thansk for all the previous, and future input. I appreciate any advice.

John. smile.gif

[ZZ]

This thread reminds me of a weird oil leak I had in a '73 318 Dodge pickup with a gas burner. It would leak out a quart or two a week running around here everyday in town. It left big oil spots on the drive every night, but it wouldn't leak or use any that I could tell on hard 70 to 80 mph road trips. I always figured that the rear main would swell up on the highway driving.

[6 2 Carl]

You might want to try Auto-RX http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html Most people over at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com love it. Check out these results http://www.rms13.com/

I have never used this stuff, but I would try it if I had a sludged up motor

Carl

[dieselbegreat]

Maybe add a qt of ATF. Also, I read many years ago that using a single weight oil (such as HD30) can help keep rings free because it doesn't contain viscosity improvers that break down and create deposits.

[DmaxMaverick]

Try some MMO (Marvel Mistery Oil) in the crankcase. I know guys that have ran that stuff for decades with no problems, so I'm sure it won't hurt anything to try it. Heck. It might even work. Says so on the label. Try some in the fuel too.