Removing Torsional Dampener Bolt

[HammerWerf]

Over the Christmas Holidays, I decided it was time to replace the torsional dampener on my 1984 C-20 manual tranny pickup. I allotted time, and started into the job. Removing the fan and pulleys, I finally got down to the job at hand. Using a long handled breaker bar, I tried to remove the bolt holding the dampener on. All that happened was I rotated the engine and moved the truck backwards.

The job is on hold. I am looking for ideas on how to turn the bolt with out the crankshaft turning. And is the bolt I am removing a left hand or right thread?? Will an impact gun work in this situation?

Since I am at a hold point, and having looked at the next job down the road, the original timing chain is probably due for replacement. Catmandoo

[CleviteKid]

The easy way: use a good air impact wrench - it will zip the bolt out (it has right-hand threads, by the way) without rotating the crank.

The elegant way: with access to the flywheel or flexplate, use a crank turner and a helper to hold the crank steady while you back the bolt out.

The cheap way: put two of the crankshaft pulley bolts back in the damper and put a big crowbar or pry bar between those pulley bolts and grab on to keep the crank from turning.

You can get an adequate air impact wrench from Harbor Freight for under $40, and once you spoil yourself you will never go back. So spend a little over $100 for a good Ingersoll-Rand impact wrench that will last us amateurs a life-time.

Anyone wanna buy my Harbor Freight Special so I can rationalize buying the Ingersoll-Rand beauty?

Dr. Lee :cool:

[Bobbie Martin]

Another real cheap way is if you have an old main or rod bearing shell, place it in the flywheel teeth to stop the flywheel from turning. The bearing is soft enough so it won't damage the teeth, but strong enough to hold the flywheel. BTW, you will probably need a tool to reinstall the pulley - don't hammer it on!

[britannic]

WRT checking chain wear: if you have the timing cover off, tighten one side of the chain by turning the crankshaft or camshaft and then measure the deflection on the slack side.

[rumbler1]

Without an impact wrench the crank will want to turn when you put the bolt back in too, so I found that a short piece of light chain, such as a dog chain, connecting one of the four bolts of the damper and a bolt from the timing cover held the damper very well.

[NH2112]

Originally posted by rumbler1:
Without an impact wrench the crank will want to turn when you put the bolt back in too, so I found that a short piece of light chain, such as a dog chain, connecting one of the four bolts of the damper and a bolt from the timing cover held the damper very well. Especially since you'll want to properly torque the bolt upon installation, not just run it up tight with the impact gun.

It's hard to beat an I-R 2131A gun, you should be able to find one cheap on eBay or in a pawnshop.

[HammerWerf]

Folks, I sucessfully replaced my damper using all the suggestions posted here. The old one was shot. Rubber all dried out and cracking.

I am now getting ready to replace the timing chain. I saw a reference that it is possible to change the chain with out removing the injector pump.

Any suggestions on how to support the IP while the front mount cover is removed? I would like to keep all the fuel lines intact if possible.

Thanks

HammerWerf

[CleviteKid]

Eight high-pressure steel fuel injection lines are more than strong enuf to support your fuel injection pump during the R&R of the timing set.

Which method did you use to get the damper bolt out and back in?

Dr. Lee :cool:

[catmandoo]

i hope you mean you successfully REMOVED the dampner,as for the pump it will hang there just fine,but i will add those 2 bottom nuts can be a pain to get to if you don't have the pump wrench.also before you get to far i usually try to get the engine on tdc before pulling the chain,i usually do it with both the crank and cam gear marks pointing up,this way when you pull the chain the pump gear marks are lined up ,change everything then rotate the crank one turn and the timing marks should line up if not move the cam gear accordingly,i don't know why they didn't make em so that all the marks would line up in one position???

[KEVIN MUNCASTER]

Guys: I followed catmandoo's advice from an old post when I did mine. Instead of turning the crank after lining up the gears, I made my own set of marks on the pump gear and outside cam gear with an automatic punch during disassembly. Worked great. Also, with regards to an impact, I used an old 1/2" electric I had hangin' around, worked great. (Had no air hooked up at the time).
Also followed advice with regards to making an installer. Welded two bolts together. Works slick as sh*t !

This site has been invaluable !

By the way, install a new timing set or dual idler while you're in there, if it's not too late. mine was bagged at 125,000 miles.

Good wrenchin' ! :cool:

[catmandoo]

all my impacts are air,1/2 and 3/4,but a friend has an electric and i am impressed with the power that thing has,definately thinking of adding one to my arsenal of tools.