Road trip ends in dissaster...won't start

[shamanie]

Well, I had picked up all the things I thought I needed all to no avail. Stopped for diesel in barstow (an AMC American something center) and upon leaving the parking lot the truck died.

Would turn over but would not catch.....finally caught and had the pedal to the floor but was fuel starved, as the engine was at a real low rpm.

Then everything seemed to be ok. I made another 150 miles and filled up again, thinking if it was bad fuel I could dillute it. No other problems were exhibited that I could observe. I was doing 65- 85. 65 up hills with any meaning ful grade and 80 on the flats. Filled up and she would turn over but again not catch. Changed the primary fuel filter to no avail. When I changed the filter it was full of diesel, both the old one I pulled off, and the new one I put on, primed with power service, although I only got it halfway full. Is diesel in California clear?

Now sitting at a chevy dealership in shafter, CA About an hour north of bakersfield awaiting monday when they reopen.

A mechanic across highway 5 (lost hills, highway 46 and I 5, from where I broke down said that power was not getting to the pump on the tank(did he mean sending unit, like another post, my sending unit had been showing an incorrect reading on the fuel guage for 5 years)

He then said he would have to drop the tank and check things out. That's when I called the tow truck driver and said "get me the fing hell outa here".

I would like to hear your suggestions, as I have a rental for a week and am stuck in Northern California till my truck is fixed.

Outa time, outa money,

My truck is an 80/20 relationship. 80% pure joy, and 20% a miserable hell.

[DmaxMaverick]

I think we've been down this road before, but your truck doesn't have an electric fuel pump if we are talking about the '83, and you haven't installed one. Even if you did, it surely wouldn't be in the tank.

California Diesel is not "clear". It is translucent, but should be brown/tan tinted. If you got clear (like water, or gas) fuel, it wasn't #2. I would be very concerned if I noticed the fuel was clear.

I think you have air getting into your system during shut down. If the engine mounted mechanical fuel pump is toast, it can allow fuel to drain back into a low to empty tank, especially if you have vacuum in the tank. After a long highway run, the tank will have vacuum if it is not properly vented. If injectors are really sloppy, they will allow the air to enter from the cylinders, and airlock the system. I would still suggest the fuel pump as the likely suspect if your tank is properly vented.

[Dieselboy]

If this is on your 83, and you haven't made an upgrade similar to the one Dr. Lee did with an electric lift pump, then your fuel supply comes from the mechanical lift pump on the lower front of the engine.

That's always a good place to start. Undo the supply line to the IP, and see if you're getting fuel.

What's the condition of the IP? How many miles?

[shamanie]

The fuel pump is not original. It was replaced by my grandfather probably 10 years ago, I think. And to be perfectly honest, wait, if it was an elec. pump you would not be able to adjust it right? it was turboed and we turned the fuel up so it has to be a manual pump.

Interestingly, I drained the little valve above the right rear tire, and what little fuel came out was red in color.

The stuff I drained out of the fuel filter was definately not red, perhaps a little tan, but not dark, and definately had a translucency.

So, first I need to check if I am even getting fuel to the fuel pump...secondly, I need to check if i got some bad diesel, really bad diesel.

How does the fuel get from the tank? There is a secondary fuel pump(or is this the sending unit?) that takes the fuel from the tank to the fuel filters and then to the fuel pump which ditributes the fuel to the injectors...right?

Thanks for the help guys!

[BobND]

The drain valve in the wheel well is to drain the water out of the bottom of the tank by connecting it to a suction apparatus at the dealer's shop.

The little bit of fuel that you got out there might be quite old, (having been trapped in the line to the water drain valve) and not indicative of what's in the tank. If you have access to a "mighty-vac" hand operated vacuum pump with the brake bleeding attachment, you could open the water removal valve again, and suck several samples out with the Mighty-Vac to see what comes out.

If the system is as-original, there's only a "sock" on the pickup tube in the fuel tank, that pre-filters the fuel on it's way to the round filter on the firewall. From there, it goes to the mechanical "FUEL LIFT PUMP" at the lower RH front of the engine. From there, it goes to the little filter hanging from the rear center of the intake manifold, and from there to the FUEL INJECTION PUMP.

You should be able to disconnect the line from the small filter on the intake, crank the engine and the mechanical lift pump should flow fuel out the disconnected line.

If memory serves correctly, that's how a 1982 or 1983 6.2 would be set up.

In 1984, they went to a single rectangular filter mounted on the firewall.

Post back as to whether you have the earlier "1982-type" system with a large and small round filter, or whether your blazer has the newer system, with a single rectangular filter.

[HammerWerf]

Shamanie,

I live down in Bakersfield, Give me a call at 661-342-2721. If your at the Chevy Dealer in Shafter, you should be at Richland Chevy. Shafter is about 25 miles from where I am. Would you like to get together?

HammerWerf
Larry G.

[shamanie]

It has the large and small round filters.

Thanks again,

Larry, will call. Thanks man.

[DmaxMaverick]

Ditto Hammerwerf

I'm not too far, either. If you need further resources, email me at dmaxmaverick@yahoo.com with a phone #.

[Moses]

Too bad none of you guys live anywhere nears central Oregon because my truck is sitting, unstartable. Fortunatily, it died in my driveway.

'Bout two months ago i replaced the injector pump, when i took it to the shop to have it timed my mech. noticed minimum fuel leaking where one of the lines conncets to an injector. Like i said it was minimual and i had every intention of replacing the line and injector with spares i have laying aroud, first lazy Sunday i've got. That's why i didn't pay too much attention to the amount of cranking i'd have to do to get the rig started after a day at work, especially since it'd start right up in the morning (with the block heater).

My engine has been acting like it looses prime sometimes, floored but barely running and lots of white/blue smoke but then the air passes and it runs fine (or shoud i say RAN?)

Monday morning i went out to warm it up and it started right up, and idled for 8-10 minutes i went out and shut it down and went back in to make my lunch. i jumped in and started it and dropped into drive, made it to the edge of the driveway and it stalled. No big deal just another air bubble in the system, right? Wrong. Despite all my cranking it would not start.
Next day cracked all the lines at the injectors and pulled the glow plugs and cranked it until i had fuel at each injector. Buttoned it back up and turned the key. i got it to sputter for about ten seconds but then it would NOT start.

So . . . i supect it is my lift pump or that a major air leak developed while i made lunch. i will first check the lift pump as described above, but my question is how do i determine if air is getting into my fuel delivery system? i know it involves clear hose which i've purchased, but i don't know the process. Anyone of you kind Gents care to help me?

Also, if anyone supects that something else is the cause, please type-up!

Thanks a ton!
moses

[DmaxMaverick]

Moses

The clear line should be installed onto the return line on the injection pump. The fuel flow is very low pressure (or should be), so a snug fit is all that is necessary. Be sure to remove the fuel cap when you do it to prevent back pressure. If you have air entering the system, it will show up there. I've found it helpful to install the line with a verticle loop in it so the air will "trap", to be seen easier.

[shamanie]

Well, here is the latest.

The service manager is telling me that it's starting right up. There was a ton of air in the system and they had to bleed it all out.

Now, they weren't able to find any leaks so they think that there is some thing wrong with the tube coming off the sending unit....like a small crack that when the fuel gets low enough it starts sucking in air.....of course finding a sending unit is impossible....so I am going to pick it up tomorrow. It has a full tank and I am only about 300 miles from vegas. I'm going to get 3 5 gallon gas cans full of diesel and leave the truck running while I fill them as needed.

The truck ran well when started, but after running for 200 miles then turning it off, starting was an impossibility. So I'll leave it running the whole time, what else can I do?

Hopefully I can make it home without a problem.

[HammerWerf]

Shamanie,
Good journey back home.

Trick I have used when my 84 would sip air at the original fuel filter because of bad o-rings, was to keep a length of tygon tubing on the bleed valve, use an empty motor oil container to purge into. The oil "can" fits snuggly behind the jack. Using clear tubing allows you to see the solid fuel purging out the air to help save your batteries.

If your near town, my offer still stands.

HammerWerf
Larry G.

[dieselcrawler]

Leaving your truck running shouldn't be a problem, in the wintertime, I sometimes leave my work truck run all day long. Lots of short trips around town, running errands, and service calls for my electrical contracting company, I don't mind having a nice warm truck cab to jump into when it's freezing outside... As to filling it up while running, I also do that. Diesel is less volitile than gasoline, and the danger is not as great if you leave it running. In the mind of safety, I'm sure it's a good idea to shut it down, but.... do what you gotta to get home. Good luck.
Greg