Question about fuel line at the tank

[dieselbegreat]

Where the fuel lines connect to the tank, is there a flexible connection or is it supposed to be hard line all the way? I had to do a repair a while back and that section of fuel hose looks swollen a bit and something is leaking back there, probably a rusted line. To replace the tank connection, what do I need and how hard is it to drop the tank enough to work on it? Thanks.

[britannic]

The lines on my tank have flexible connections from the fuel sender assembly secured with spring clips. I haven't dropped my tank, so I don't have any further info on that.

[ 12-24-2003, 03:02 PM: Message edited by: britannic ]

[Peter J. Bierman]

I did drop the tank of my blazer and it was easy.
Just two tidownstrips ( ti up ) and the hoses and fillerpipe connection.
A forklift is a big help here.
Make sure the tank is as empty as possible.

Peter

[dieselcrawler]

I've had a tank out of a blazer, I would think that a sub should be about the same. I have found that the easiest way to take a tank out is to plan to replace the soft lines no matter what. There should be some 5/16 and 3/8 diam rubber lines connecting the hard lines to the sending unit on the tank. Just cut them, as it's easier to do that than try to get at the hose clamps. However, it would be wise to NOT cut the filler hose, it should be a little easier to get at. I would replace all the hose clamps with the new lines. I was able to use a 1/4" drive socket with long extention to tighten the hose clamps, worked well. Best of luck. Be careful not to damage the wiring when dropin' the tank.
Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good night.
Greg

[SaintC]

If you do drop the tank, absolutely replace the soft lines. And, yes, cut them to bring the tank down.
As for the inlet hose, use a hair dryer (or airplane heat gun) to heat it up. Then, use a strap wrench and work it back and forth. This worked really well for me, and caused no damage.

My suggestion...do not re-use the spring clamps, but do use NEW spring clamps. I would not use the screw type found everywhere today. They bite the hose too hard, and they do not give at all with temp changes. The auto boys got it right by using spring clamps...imho.