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View Full Version : Swap 700R4 to standard trans



bjenkins
12-20-2003, 20:32
Hello. in my '83 K5 6.2, i swapped the old 700R4 auto to an 833 new process 4sp (3sp with OD), looking for a substantial mpg gain and a chance to torque lug the old 6.2 with manual control. i love it. but i swear, the hardest part of the conversion was installing a clutch pedal and linkage where there wasn't.

anyone who wants to pick my brain about the trials and tribulations of this, i'll try to help.

question: does anyone know a list of gm standard trannies that will bolt up on a 6.2?

'83 K5 Silverado, HD susp & skid plates w/3.09 gears!? and roll up windows.

NH2112
12-20-2003, 23:57
I did something similar, swapping an SM465 from an 87 gasser K20 into my 85 6.2L K10 w/dead 700R4. The absolute hardest part of the whole job was modifying the 87's brake/clutch pedal bracket for use with a hydroboost, everything else was just heavy lifting while lying flat on my back and the usual swearing while trying to get the tranny up tight against the engine. I figure I spent 3 days on the whole project, which includes dropping the drivelines from 2 vehicles, pulling the steering columns to get the brake/clutch pedal brackets out, doing the mods, bolting up the modified bracket and putting the steering columns back in, then the small stuff like cutting the holes for the clutch master cylinder, shifter, and bolting up the tranny, transfer case, crossmember, and driveshafts.

Oh yeah, if you try to bleed a clutch the same way you would do brakes you'll lose your mind before the air's out of the damn thing. Just make sure the reservoir's full then go underneath and work the release fork by hand till you feel a lot of resistance. Go up in the cab, pump the pedal a few times (it'll go to the floor at first) and you'll be all set. I still say bleeding that clutch is what gave me my grey hair! :D

catmandoo
12-21-2003, 18:28
most of the hyd clutchs i've run across you have to bleed from the bottom up.

NH2112
12-22-2003, 02:56
Maybe it's due to there not being a residual pressure valve in a clutch master cylinder, unlike a brake master cylinder. Still, I tried everything else before moving the release fork manually - MityVac, one of those pneumatic bleeders, back-bleeding with a new oil can's hose stretched over the bleeder fitting, etc - NOTHING worked.