Manual Glow Plugs

[dalth500]

I could you some advice on how best to rig up a manual glow plug switch. I have a 1983 6.2 Suburban that I drive once or twice a month for hauling (getting the Christimas tree etc.) I have had a persistent problem with the glow plug control unit. I am now on my third glow plug controller in less than 3000 miles. I have also replaced the glow-plugs and the glow plug relay fo good measure.

For the amount of times I use the truck I am getting tired of replacing the controller at $90 a pop only to have it fail later.

As a stop-gap measure I am currently "jumping" between the hot side of the relay and cold side for a few seconds but its getting a little cold out here in Oregon to stand there in the rain to jack around with the jumper cables.

Have others wired a manual switch and if so what kinds of switches and/or relays, gauge wire have you used and what has your experiences been with manual system.

Thanks, this is a great page and a wonderful group of devotees.

Dalton

I

[78Chev]

If you have the round controller on the back of the driver's side head then you also have the relay on the left inside fender. The way this relay works is that one connector is energized with a wire that is hot with the key on (pink or orange with black stripe, I think). The wire on the other connector goes to the controller. When the controller is cold it grounds this wire (blue, I think), completing the circuit to the relay, which energizes the glow plugs. So, all you have to do is to run a wire from the relay (from the pole that is connected to the controller) into the cab to a momentary push switch that is grounded. When you push the switch you complete the relay's circuit and the glow plugs will energize. I have this set up in my truck just in case the controller gives out and to give a few extra seconds of glow time when it is really cold out. Hope that helps.
Randy

[dieselcrawler]

I had a problem with the glow plugs not working on my truck, only they were ran thru a resister bank, 'cause the truck was a military truck, and was set up for 24 volts. I by passed all that by getting a 12v solinode from a '78 Jeep CJ, the one that runs the starter, and mounted it to the fire wall. Running a sheet metal screw thru the base grounded it, and all I had to do was put a momentary contact push button on the dash, with a 12 volt feed from one of the batteries. I also ran a large, battery cable sized wire from the battery to one side of the solinode, and hooked the stock wireing to the glow plugs to the other side, so when you hit the button, it pulls in the solinode, and as long as you hold the button, it fires the glow plugs. You may be able to rewire things so you can use your stock glow plug relay, and just use the button, as mentioned above. Wether you run a constant hot wire to the relay, and use your ground as the "switched" wire, or the other way around, it should have the same effect. How ever you have to get the relay to kick in, and I would expect you will do no harm as long as the orig wiring to the relay is disconnected, and the wires taped up, or insulated in some way, so as to not hit something in the engine bay and short out something. Best of luck, should be a simple fix, so long as you know to hit the 'glow' button... make sure to remind someone else who might drive you truck, a buddy of mine couldn't figure out why my truck wouldn't start one day... **grin**
What I don't know is if there are any ill effects to the glow plugs them selves, as they now will be able to burn longer, and you may end up with ones that burn out faster, 'cause they are on longer some times. Any one else have any sugjestions on that? Maybe a diffrent kind of plug? All I have are the stock ones, and I haven't pulled one out in 9 months or so to see how they are holding up in my truck. The ol' beast has been getting harder to start, it may be that my plugs are not up to par...
Greg