Out of control Engine

[willibig]

Hello

ON a quest to get my Fuel injection pump set to the optimum setting i ran into trouble. after putting the injection pump back together i did as i normally do bleeding the system of bubbles, then i started expecting a normal running diesel. Problem, the truck began to run out of control with no ability to control the engine RPM's with the throttle, the truck was running at full throttle! immediately turned off the key this had no effect so i unplugged the solenoid at the injection pump this also did nothing. with no other alternitive i cut the fuel line to the filter which terminated the engines running. i took the pump apart again to see what i had put back together wrong i did not see anything but after further inspection i saw that the Spring that always falls out had fallen out and gotten eaten by the pump :eek: I cleaned the pump out the best i could and put an extra spring i had back in and went again with the same outcome even with the spring.

Am i still puting the pump back together wrong?

Have i Killed something inside the pump?


Thank you for any ideas or experience.

[rumbler1]

It's just a shot in the dark, but I'd check to be sure that the governor & spring assembly is properly installed. When these parts are correctly installed in relation to the throttle shaft, rotating the throttle shaft assembly to the rear will cause compression of the governor spring. As far as the runaway engine goes, it's been mentioned here that putting vice grips on the return line at the top of the pump and compressing the line will stop the engine. Might want to keep the vice grips handy when you start it up again.
Good luck!

[willibig]

Hello

Thanks for the Reply Rumbler. I've checked these things and the seem to be working correctly.

THanks

[EWC]

It sounds like the top of the pump was not put on correctly . I think you have to put the top on the pump , slightly to the rear , and slide it forward . The fuel shut off sol. has linkages that are hooked up that way . The Banks manual talks about this .

[britannic]

To get the inj. pump cover on correctly, you need to hold it above the pump and 1/4" toward the timing cover, then lower it down to contact the pump and finally slide toward the intake manifold until the screw holes line up.

This ensures that the shutoff rack is properly engaged and that the accelerator engages the linkage.

[willibig]

Hello EWC

Do you mean the rear of the truck or other?

Thanks

[willibig]

Thanks Britannic That conferms I put it on the correct way but would it still be possible to have still missed a point of contact?

Thanks

[britannic]

Make sure the governor assembly is correctly located in the throttle shaft and follow the instructions I posted to ensure that the shutoff solenoid tang engages the shutoff rack. If the tang gets behind the rack, it will hold the throttle open. The throttle is fully shut off when the rack is pushed all the way to the rear (toward the intake manifold) of the inj. pump.

[willibig]

Thanks for the info Bratannic I will go out and try again first thing in the morning.

[britannic]

Another thing, when you get the cover off again, make sure that the throttle shaft moves the governor assembly. It's easy to misalign the block that engages in the throttle shaft, so that it won't move it anymore.

[willibig]

Hello

I got out one of my books that discusses putting the governer lid back on, it says that i should check the fuel shut of soleniod is clicking, against the metering valve. which part is the metering valve so i can make sure its functioning without the cover on.

Thanks

[britannic]

In the cover, the shutoff solenoid has a stainless steel tang on the passenger side (with the cover held the correct way up). This tang pushes on a linkage that connects to the metering valve mechanism at the front of the pump (timing cover end). Familiarize yourself with it by moving the linkage back and forth with the cover off. This will help you understand what the shutoff solenoid does when it's energized (it retracts and allows the linkage to spring to it's idle position), when the current is cut to the solenoid, the plunger pushes the linkage all the way to the intake end of the pump and shuts the fuel off.

[willibig]

Hello

I've gotten the Pump back together and now the truck wont start. I checked to see of there was fuel flow to the injector but realized i dont now how much is normal when just turning the truck over. I also checked the glow plugs but i'am not sure how to test them other then feeling for heat at the tip, which there was non on the one i checked. any ideas about this. I will search the forum for answers. Could this be related to my lost spring?

Thanks

[britannic]

Did you bleed the air from the injectors and pump?

Did you connect the correct wire (pink) to the shutoff solenoid terminal? Is it getting 12v with the ignition switched on?

Did the pump get damaged due to the accident you reported earlier in the thread?

When checking a loosened injector pipe, you should see a spurt or puff of fuel spray.

[willibig]

hello

I have not bled the system yet, I not sure how to do this. All i had was a bubble of fuel come at the injector when the truck was turned over.

Thank you for the info.

[EWC]

Boy , you would think I would remember how to put the top on correctly as I just did one 2 weeks ago ! I must be getting old . Thanks for correcting me Britannic .

As far as bleeding goes , can you get some of the glow plugs out ? If so then all you need to do is crank the engine over and watch for a mist of fuel from the glow plug hole . Obviously This means that the fuel is going through the injector and the engine should start and run at this point . When you are cranking it may help to hold the throttle all the way down as well .

If you can't get the glow plugs out then you will have to loosen the fuel lines at the injectors . If you are getting bubbles then the pump is trying to push fuel through the lines . Crank until you get fuel out of the lines , letting the starter rest in between 30 sec cycles . Some have said that you only need to bleed 1 injector per side but that's up to you .

You should not get any glow from the plugs unless you ground the body and then apply voltage . You will not be able to hold them as they should glow bright red !

One other thing , you should be able to hear the sol. clicking if you turn the key to run and touch the wire to the terminal .

[rumbler1]

As just mentioned by ewc, you only need to bleed two injectors. I've done this a couple or three times and it's worked every time. I've done it using injectors on opposite sides of the engine but I'm told it doesn't have to be from opposite sides.

[willibig]

I'am still working on getting the truck started. I think i have just about gotten the fuel system bled but i'am still not getting as much fuel as i would expect. in front of the injector is just a small amount of fuel. i looked inside of the pump again and it had not filled up with diesel yet i let my electric fuel pump run for a bit with the lid off and it slowly refilled. is that normal? I would think that the pump would be filled as soon as the pump kicked out its 110 GPH @ 15 PSI (I did this before i saw any increase in fuel to the injector).

Thanks for any more ideas, I will give an update when the batteries recharge.

[willibig]

Hello

With the forums help i think i have gotten the problem fixed for now. we will see if i have any problems due to the spring that was. The truck runs since it is late i will have to put off a test drive until morning, I will start a new post for another question later.

Thanks for your help Guys, I hope i dont end up on the side of the road in the morning.

[rumbler1]

Wllibig, just in case you ever take the cover off again, I have found that you can save some bleeding by refilling the pump housing with fresh fuel before replacing the cover. This gets rid of quite a bit of air before you ever start cranking the engine.