MHI TE06H Turbo

[britannic]

The same wastegated turbo that I'm using in my 6.2L just came up on eBay. The Bank's part # is 24010 and it looks like the info for the turbo is mispelled (TE064), so you will want to verify it. Check the application is for a Ford 6.9/7.3 Sidewinder kit and it will fit the 6.2L Sidewinder setup with downpipe mods (see my previous posts and signature picture link).

eBay TE06H MHI Bank's Turbo (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2427081074)

[BARRAZA]

Britannic
I was interested in this turbo after reading about your experience. But I emailed the guy and he replied that the turbo is marked TE06. Now I can't find the post about why you changed in the first place, must be one of the ones that was lost. Dont want to rehash the whole other post, but could you give a summary of what happened while the info is still fresh, ie boost before and after, EGT's, performance change, and how you ended up finding the TE06H was an adequate alternative. Thanks

[britannic]

I switched turbos, because the boost on the TD04B was exceeding 15 psi (needle would wrap around and peg on the zero stop, so goodness knows how much boost was being made) and wouldn't give enough low rpm boost. The MHI TE06/TE06H was specified by Bank's for the Ford 6.9 and 7.3 Sidewinder kit and is a bolt on replacement for the 6.2L Sidewinder turbo. It makes plenty of boost down low and the wastegate ensures that I don't exceed 15psi any more (I shimmed the WG to 15psi max).

With this turbo+4911 pump+6.5LTD injectors, the engine pulls beautifully up my local mountains without running out of puff or overheating.

Recently I was at around 7500' elevation and my buddy's 1999 7.3L powerstroke couldn't keep up (straight pipe and chip, although he does have a crew cab lwb though) with the Ford making tons of black smoke above 5500' and not enough boost.

To be fair, the Ford should do well once the wastegate is tweaked, although I'm not sure what the Navistar will take, since I'm pretty sure it's intercooled and that introduces a different dynamic to max boost pressure.

[ 08-21-2003, 08:28 AM: Message edited by: britannic ]

[Dieselboy]

Britannic,
I have an opportunity to pick up one of these turbos at a good price. What are some details that I should look for? I know to check for play in the turbine shaft, and wear on the leading edge of the blades, but what else should I look for? If it's in good to marginal condition, would a rebuild kit be a good option?

If it turns out to be a good deal, then it puts me about ten steps closer to a getting a turbo system on my truck.

Here's a picture:
http://www.tamor.org/forum/upload/attachment.php?s=&postid=23818
Thanks!

[britannic]

Check the play in the turbine shaft; pronounced fore and aft is bad, but side to side is OK (once oil pressure comes up, the turbine shaft centers and the play will vanish) providing the intake impeller and exhaust turbine don't contact the housing sides.

Make sure the oil inlet and drain are clean (no debris). Check any seals that are visible for perishing. Make sure that none of the housing band clamps and large C-clip are loose, if so, check for evidence if they came loose during service, which could cause major damage to the bearing.

Check all castings for cracks and make sure the wastegate moves (disconnect the linkage) freely.

A rebuild kit is certainly an option, BTW that large C-Clip is a pain unless you have the ultra heavy duty circlip pliers. tongue.gif

[Dieselboy]

Thanks for tips! I was in fact able to get my very own TE06H turbo, and immediatly too it to the work-bench to check it out.

The impeller and compressor spin freely and have no binding at all. There was some debris around the oil inlet, but a good cleaning took care of that. The wastegate does have a little bit of bind in the motion as it does not move freely i.e. it needs some good old persuasion :D .

I did locate a turbo shop while I'm up here in Dallas that can check it out and give it a seal of approval.

After inspecting the wastegate system, I became curious how you went about adjusting it. The only adjustment that I found was the threaded end of the rod off the actuator that attatches to the arm of the wastegate. Is it as simple as threading and unthreading that adjustment? Also, how exactly did you go about shimming the adjusment for more boost?

Thanks again; your Imagestation album was extremely helpful in understanding exactly how this new toy will go together.

[britannic]

I found that shortening the linkage all the way, was only good for around 10-12psi, so I unbolted the dashpot and drilled a 3/16" piece of flat steel bar to match the dashpot support holes and set it under the support so that the linkage was effectively shortened still more.

Then I lengthened the mechanism enough to allow it move freely without binding and tested with low pressure compressed air (16 psi max). Then I road tested the turbo to check the max boost and fine tuned it to 15psi max with an average range of 12-14psi depending on altitude, load, OAT and grade.

[seeadler]

Hi britannic,
as you know I am getting my 6.2l out of the boat this weekend. after the needed repairs (main web rings) and overhaul of the engine I think about getting more power out of it.

Already installed:
Injection pump
- Stanadyne DB2 629 4524 J
61907962 23500416
Injectors:
- BOSCH (060) 0430211058

I would like to install a turbo where can I find more informations on turbochargers for the 6.2l.
There is banks and mitsubishi, garrett ... and a couple of others. Which turbochargers could be used with or without modifications ?

Thank you in advance Oliver

[britannic]

SeeAdler, Gale Bank's engineering has a good website, well stocked with info at www.bankspower.com. (http://www.bankspower.com.)

A marine application has many advantages for a turbo engine, chiefly the ability to harness as much secondary coolant as you want :D and also because the engine is kept at constant speeds. There are more options as you know for air intake and exhaust, plus the added benefit of sucking in cooler air and the ease of adding an intercooler.

Non-wastegated turbos are a good option for a marine engine, because they can flow more exhaust without restriction/back pressure and allow for a greater A/R, since there's no need for immediate spool ups under frequent acceleration deceleration cycles.

If it's of interest, I'm selling my low mileage Bank's T04B Garrett non-wastegated turbo. The Bank's system is easily marinized and really doesn't require modification if the power is kept under 300HP. If more power is required, then it becomes necessary to look at turbos that have water cooling as well as oil cooling/lubrication.

Another good source of information for marine turbos/engines is www.peninsulardiesel.com. (http://www.peninsulardiesel.com.)

[Dieselboy]

Well, I have good news. The TE06H was given a clean bill of health at the turbo shop, and is in no need of a rebuild. As a matter of fact, the guy there said it was "cherry", and even offered to buy it from me!

I ordered the rest of the Banks hardware yesterday, and it should get here Tuesday afternoon. Until then, I need get the 18 year old exhaust cut off and prep the rest of the truck for its long-awaited turbo.

I do have a couple of questions about the flange that I need to adapt my Banks downpipe to the MHI turbo. The pipe is 3" diameter, but what size does the pipe flare to? I have the old downpipe from my father's 96 6.5TD, and it sure would be convenient to use that flare. When the flange is in place on the output of the impeller housing, is the diameter of the flared pipe larger than that of the impeller housing? If not, then the 6.5 downpipe won't work (or just needs to be just down) because the flare does extend past the edge of the tapered output.

I have included some pictures. I apologize for the size, but photoshop isn't on this computer. :(
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/6.2TD/mhiturbo/downpipefit1.JPG
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/6.2TD/mhiturbo/downpipefit2.JPG

More pictures can be viewed here (http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/6.2TD/mhiturbo/).

[ 11-16-2003, 04:56 PM: Message edited by: Dieselboy ]

[britannic]

Good call on snagging that turbo!!! :cool: You'll need to turn down the flare's lip to match the diameter of the turbo's outlet, otherwise the v-band clamp won't be able to seal it properly.

Providing the exhaust ID is the same size or larger than the turbo outlet ID you'll be fine.

[Dieselboy]

I'm just full of questions now that this thing is finally coming together, and I do have yet another. I couldn't get a good look at your oil drain-back setup on the Imagestation album, but was it anything like this flexible line that mine came with? The diameter on that thing is about 3/4".
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/6.2TD/mhiturbo/bestjunkyardfindever.jpg

[ 11-16-2003, 04:59 PM: Message edited by: Dieselboy ]

[britannic]

Ask away! Mine is the rigid Bank's tube which uses a silicon hose coupling to the drain tube on the mech. fuel pump adaptor plate; with the MHI TE06H turbo, the end of the pipe sits about an 1" too close to the block so I had to tweak it. It should be easier with that corrugated hose yours has.

[seeadler]

Hi Britannic,
please sent me an e-mail on your banks, details, fotos, how fit it on my 6.2l. I also would need intake and probably have to built a capsuled and water cooled exhaust manifold that fits to the charger !?

oliver.nee@powerkom.de

Thank you I really appreciate your response.



Originally posted by britannic:
SeeAdler, Gale Bank's engineering has a good website, well stocked with info at www.bankspower.com. (http://www.bankspower.com.)

A marine application has many advantages for a turbo engine, chiefly the ability to harness as much secondary coolant as you want :D and also because the engine is kept at constant speeds. There are more options as you know for air intake and exhaust, plus the added benefit of sucking in cooler air and the ease of adding an intercooler.

Non-wastegated turbos are a good option for a marine engine, because they can flow more exhaust without restriction/back pressure and allow for a greater A/R, since there's no need for immediate spool ups under frequent acceleration deceleration cycles.

If it's of interest, I'm selling my low mileage Bank's T04B Garrett non-wastegated turbo. The Bank's system is easily marinized and really doesn't require modification if the power is kept under 300HP. If more power is required, then it becomes necessary to look at turbos that have water cooling as well as oil cooling/lubrication.

Another good source of information for marine turbos/engines is www.peninsulardiesel.com. (http://www.peninsulardiesel.com.)