better turbo

[captsolo]

I currently have a bank's turbo set-up on my 82 blazer. The engine is actually a 6.5l with 18.5:1 Peninsular Marine pistons. I am only getting 6-7 psi tops out of my turbo. It peaked at 11 psi 2.5 yrs ago when installed. No changes in anything since installed. Since this engine should be able to handle 15-20 psi of boost, does anyone know of a direct swap for the Bank's Schwitzer turbo, or of a shop that could rebuild my current turbo to produce more boost? I found a turbo on ebay set-up for an International DT466 engine that may bolt up, but is that too much turbo?

[arveetek]

What you want is an MHI TE06H turbocharger. This was originally offered by Banks for their 7.3L Ford diesel kits, and it is a wastegated turbo. Several of the members here have installed them, and are very pleased with the results. It is a direct bolt-on replacement for your turbo, although some exhaust modifications are required.

Do a search on "MHI turbo" and another on "TEO6H" and you'll come up with some good reading.

I'm running a Garret turbo, although I'm not sure what it was orignally used for. I suspect it was a turbo from an ATS setup for a Ford 6.9L/7.3L kit, but I haven't verified that yet. I build up to 10 psi very easily at low rpm, with a max. of 15 psi on hard pulls at WOT. That's on a stock 6.2L with light-duty fuel system. I'm pretty happy. My next step is an intercooler.

Casey

[porboyz]

Use "search" for turbocharger,turbo etc. you'll find good info.

[john8662]

From what I read, you need more fuel to make more boost. As its a combination of exhaust pressure and heat energy that drives the turbine. What fuel system are you running? How much do you have the current injection pump turned up? If 1/4 turn, you may consider 1/8 more turn, for more fuel. you may also consider 6.5 injectors, getting better atomization from the higher pop pressure, but with a rougher idle on a worn pump.

I notice you have a 6.5 low compresion engine, you should probably install a 6.5TD Mechanical injection pump for more fuel too, its called a DB2 4911.

haven't verified this yet personally, as my engine is on the engine stand right now that has the banks.

[captsolo]

Actually my fuel mixture was correct when I first installed the Banks kit. In the last year the peak boost has dropped off and I have increasingly more smoke pouring out the back under a load or hard accel. The pump has plenty of adjustment left for fuel so I know it's not a problem.

[captsolo]

I found a Schwitzer S300 on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7924782229 , but by what I've been seeing the A/R is too great for my application? Anybody have any ideas? Anybody have any idea on how to read compressor maps? Or what effects pressure ratio? or what A/R is right for what engine/application?

[john8662]

Actually I think the turbo with the banks kits (at least the old ones I have) is a T04B based turbo. It does sound like you need a better turbo though, like the MHI TE06H mentioned already. Its available from Banks directly, or watch for one ebay, Rare!! Besides fuel, you might want to look at your air filter box, make sure you're getting enough air to the system. Another thing you could do is take off the block off plate on the intake in the radiator support, for some ram air. You'll have to modify that piece to take off the plate but retain the mouning in the core support. Or just take it off temporarily and see if you get any improvement.

Still yet another thing to check is the timing, you can search for other article here on the page pertaining to that.

[britannic]

I found timing to be a critical part of obtaining more boost from my turbos. Another trick, is to insulate the turbine housing, cross pipe and manifolds to keep the exhaust velocity high and deliver maximum energy to the turbo. Don't insulate the compressor or downpipe (obviously, some parts of the downpipe will need a shield to protect wiring and pipework on the upper side).

[doncannon]

Hey Britannic,
Why not insulate the turbo? I know when I bought my turbo blanket they said it will help the turbo. I have not noticed a difference and was just wondering why.
Thanks in advance,
Don :confused:

[grape]

<-----can read turbo maps.....diesels need 10 pounds per minute of air for every 80 hp you plan to make.


bla bla bla.......throw the 1.0 exhaust housing in the trash and get a .81 euro style housing for a P-trim T04 exhaust wheel.......after that you can work on the inlet side.

[britannic]

You need to lose as much heat as possible from the compressed air charge, so insulating the compressor housing is counter-productive, since it will slow heat loss from the air charge. Conversely, insulating the turbine housing keeps as much exhaust energy as possible to drive the turbine.


Originally posted by Don Cannon:
Hey Britannic,
Why not insulate the turbo? I know when I bought my turbo blanket they said it will help the turbo. I have not noticed a difference and was just wondering why.
Thanks in advance,
Don :confused:

[ 11-06-2004, 05:39 AM: Message edited by: britannic ]

[grape]

this one should do the trick
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/friends/grape/Mvc-001s.jpg

[FWBennett]

I'm trying to follow along - I'm not ready to start swapping turbos but I would like to get the most from my ATS and I'm getting a little lost in the termonology - Please explain Compressor Housing vs Turbine Housing? Are you insulating the exhaust side of the turbo (Turbine Housing?) and NOT insulating the intake side (Compressor Housing?) Then Britannic recommends NOT insulating the downpipe. What about the elbow from the exhaust side of the turbo to the manifold? - aren't we also trying to keep as much engine heat out of the engine compartment?
- thanks for all the help!

[doncannon]

thanks britannic,

I have the turbo housing insulated (exhaust side) and the compressor housing (intake side) I left un-insulated. Now this gives me an idea...could i put a scoop underneath the front bumper and direct it to the compressor through some bends and ending it just short of the compressor? or would this hurt something?
thanks again
Don

[britannic]

The compressor compresses the air and forces it into the intake manifold. Air heats up as it compresses, so it's good practice to ensure as much of that heat is removed as possible, before it's ingested by the engine.

The exhaust turbine is connected to the compressor by a shaft and is driven by exhaust gas, so we need to ensure as much energy as possible is delivered to it, so insulating the crosspipe and turbine housing is a great help.

The speed of the gas leaving the turbine can be further increased by cooling it rapidly, so minimize the exhaust downpipe insulation to the bare minimum to assist with this.


Originally posted by FWBennett:
I'm trying to follow along - I'm not ready to start swapping turbos but I would like to get the most from my ATS and I'm getting a little lost in the termonology - Please explain Compressor Housing vs Turbine Housing? Are you insulating the exhaust side of the turbo (Turbine Housing?) and NOT insulating the intake side (Compressor Housing?) Then Britannic recommends NOT insulating the downpipe. What about the elbow from the exhaust side of the turbo to the manifold? - aren't we also trying to keep as much engine heat out of the engine compartment?
- thanks for all the help!

[catmandoo]

nice lookin 6.5 there grape,you can do one for me next...

[grape]

Building a Craftsman truck from bars hanging on the wall to complete truck is less work than this blazer has been, so-far.