View Full Version : need power @ mileage
Does anyone know where to find any? There seems to be a ton of performance parts for the duramax, power stroke, cummins. the only thing I have found is Banks but $3000. seems to be a little steep for only 60 hp. Does anyone have any ideas? I thought about taking the air inlet silencer off, and making it somewhatof a ram air system. I have 2 in. dual exhaust, should I just take the mufflers off. Or go single 3 in? Dual 3 in.? Cause I only get 16 mpg. And can't use over drive unless its level ground I slow down up hill's. The injector pump @ timing has been checked by a reputable shop. Has a new timing set and runs really good having 155K miles on it. Hope fully some one has all the answers I so really need thanks in advance Steven
catmandoo
09-28-2004, 04:46
what do you have???i have an 84 1/2 2wd that would pull 25 all day long,then i have an 83 1/2 2wd sub that couldn't pull 20 downhill with the engine shut off.alot depends on equipment such as 4wd,huge tires, gears ,stick or auto etc etc.
Build your own turbo system at a fraction of the cost of a Banks setup. The 6.5 manifolds are a direct replacement for the 6.2's and they can be located in wrecking yards or on E-Bay. Also, good used 6.5 turbos can be found there as well. Try to find the GM-8 turbo. You may have an issue with clearance between the turbo and your heater box - if so, you may need to run the Banks exhaust manifold. Do a search on the forum - there are many threads on this subject.
I have an 82 K10, 4 speed (3 with 4th o.d.) Ya an oddball new process A833. 3.08 gears and 31 in. tires. All stock stuff so far. The 6.5 intakes are direct replacements? that makes looking alot easier. So I can find one and just transfer everything over? Is the exhaust manifold different? or is the connection in the pipe? Sorry to sound ignorant but I'll learn what I need to do with all your help thanks Steven
84 Convert
09-30-2004, 21:06
The only way to sound ignorant is to never ask the questions you need answers to!
Actually, the exhaust manifolds are the ones you will be needing. Pass. side to be exact. Depending on your fabrication skills, you can build the intake side to work with what you have for less than buying the intake tract from a 6.5. Unless, of course, you get a screaming deal on one. I got a complete 6.5 minus the exhaust manifolds :-( for free!
I saw your post on gearing and think you're on the right track there.
Enjoy the forum... there is alot of great info here!
Gregg
Steven, I also have an '82 (red engine) K10 with the OD stick and 31" BFGs with 3:42 gears. I have a 4x4 mag which shows our truck coming with 3:42s and 3:73 optional (no 3:08s in a 4x4) so you may want to check yours again. Mine performs as you described but I average 21 MPG in mixed driving. Since it will cruise at 80+ all day I would prefer the 3:73s for more low end power or a strait 4 speed with 3:08 gears. I have not tried any other pumps but I think the Injector Pump has much to do with our engine's power due to the timing and fuel pressure rise time delivered to the injectors. Our early LD engines had small pre-chambers and pumps tuned for economy. These trucks are reliable and easy to tinker with so "enjoy"!
If you have a smog engine ( valve in center of intake under air cleaner )
Find the vacuum hose to it, Pull it off and plug the
hose with a Bolt. Also ( can't quite rember )
Try and see if the Smog valve ( exhaust gas recirculator valve ) is closed...
If your in smog mode all the time , loss milage
Thank you for the info, my fab.skills are ok but I know people who are really good. What exacly needs to be built? Yes I have the Ld engine w/ the egr valve it's already plugged off. Old6.2 you refer to color of engine there isn't any paint I can find except maybe black. I replaced all the fluids a while back so the diff. covers were off. It has 3.08's. I'm taking the injuctor shop's advise and going to give the injector pump a 1/4 turn. What has been tried and found to work for exhaust? I would like to redo it. For better flow but not sure of what size or single/dual? And should I hold off taking the silencer box out of the air inlet until I replace w/ 6.5 intake? Is there any certain year intake that is prefered?
84 Convert
10-05-2004, 21:22
For the intake, you can build any sort of box or round type of set-up you like that will fit on top of your current intake, with a proper sized inlet from the turbo ( at least the size of the turbo outlet). This piece will replace the current air filter with the filter now being before the turbo. Because you have a pre-88 body truck you may wish to find a Banks pass. side exhaust manifold because of clearance issues.
Pre- turbo, you can remove the silencer. Check out Dr. Lee's SAA set up. He has had excellent results with dual 3" exhaust on his N/A truck. A single 3" is enough for most 6.2/6.5 turbo engines. The more power you get out of them, the bigger you want the exh. to be. I think some on the 6.5 TD forum are running 4".
Having the same tranny as you, I think a gear change is in order to get much in the way of results from any of this stuff, though. First gear is really high :-{
Paint color? The red blocks had a higher nickel content, and are considered one of the more desirable blocks for crack resistance.
As far as intakes go, from worst to best: VIN C (LD) , VIN J (HD), N/A Hummer, 6.5TD. This is if my memory serves me well. Otherwise somebody tell me I'm wrong. Oh, yeah, and price goes with performance.
Sorry 'bout the long post , but hopefully, this info will help.
Gregg
Thank you all for the reply's. I'v got feelers out on 6.5 turbo stuff. Will keep asking questions. So I will do this right. thanks again Steven
Sorry for not posting but I've been away for a week and am glad '84 convert' has answered your questions. I checked my '82 4x4 magazine again and stand corrected. The K10 did come with factory 3:08s and it is the Blazers that were limited to 3:42 and 3:73. The test vehicle was a K10 short bed with 833a OD, 3:08s and 31x15 tires. It did the 1/4 mile in 21 sec. @ 65 MPH !! The 833a was available in a standard 4 speed with a first gear around 4.5 to 1. If you can stand your truck without using OD than a trans swap might be less expensive than changing two diffs.
I didn't understand how to figure out which intake is which. If the engine is out of the p/u. is there a casting # on it? And would a 6.5 turbo bolt on to any of them? I don't know any body that has a turbo 6.2 or 6.5 to look at. I found a factory 6.5 intake for $50 is that a good price? What do I ask for to get the hummer or the other one? Or is there an after market aluminum out there? I found complete F@R 3.73 diffs for $200. And a line on 4.10's. I'm holding out for the 4.10's. Well hope to get pieces and parts before snow hits. Thanks in advance Steven
84 Convert
10-17-2004, 21:58
Hi there!
Around here $200 isn't bad for a pair of axles, if they are in good shape. I paid $600 for mine and still had to redo the front brakes. Try to get the full-floating 14bolt rear...the axleshafts make a Dana 70's look wimpy!
I think $50 is reasonable for the 6.5 intake. The turbo would connect to it with a short piece of hose, assuming it is for a TD app., and you have a 6.5 exhaust manifold rather than a banks one. I've never laid eyes on a van or Hummer intake, so I don't know what identifying features they have. However, in the van and the Hummer, the turbo is mounted above the engine and to the rear. I can check the casting number on my 6.5 intake tomorrow. If you are getting a 6.5TD intake it should have two pieces to it...a lower part with runners and water passages, and an upper that bolts on with 4 bolts with a tube projecting out to the pass. side.
The C-code intake has and EGR valve in the center under the air cleaner, the J-code has none. the EGR is a large round canister with vaccuum lines running to it. If you can get a 6.5TD manifold, you don't need to I.D. it any further than making sure it came from a p/u. The problem with a 6.5TD intake is that if you have A/C, you may be looking for a Banks exhuast manifold, and I am quite sure there would be problems with getting the turbo hooked up to the intake...I'll see if I can get or find any photos that will help you visualize how things fit together.
Gregg
[ 10-17-2004, 10:15 PM: Message edited by: 84 Convert ]
Thank you 84 convert, I'll look for the 6.5 td intake then. Could I run the engine w/ the td. intake na until I collect the rest of the parts? Just to see how the different changes effect power. I made up a road draft tube and cut the front off the air inlet where it passes through the core support. Hope it changes some thing.
84 Convert
10-19-2004, 19:49
The big problem with installing the TD intake without the turbo is that the intake tube is very restrictive without forced induction. If you made a box that would bolt on the top with more like a 5" inlet, that might work. Possibly the easiest thing filter wise would be to make an adapter to use a standard 14" air filter on top of the manifold.
Take a look at gmctd's pics ( the link is in his sig ). He has some good ones of the stock type set-up. Dieselboy has some good ones of the banks set-up on his '85 'burb. This way you can tell how the turbo mounts differently.
I've been too busy at work to get that number, but I'll do so as soon as possible.
Gregg
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