Heat, EGT, Boost, and timing

[doncannon]

Hello ALL,
We just got back from a 150 mile trip each way and I got to thinking about these things. If 1100 degrees is the max then what is a safe cruise egt? also how hot should the oil, trans, water run before it starts to hurt things? I think something is wrong with the timing since i am only getting 1 lb of boost! before i had the mark to the passanger side now it is lined up. It makes alot more noise but does have better take off! I want to check the intake gaskets how could i do that? I know i need to check the timing so what is a good starting point with the banks turbo, front deflector removed, muffler removed, and 3/8 turn of the pump?
thank you all in advance,
Don

[john8662]

Thats pretty low boost for the amount of fuel you're sending down the hatch. My guess right now is that you have a combination of timing and an intake leak.

For the boost problem, check the little rubber socks that get installed on the intake manifold to cover the existing CDR tube nipples. Dieselboy found out that you can blow these up and have some low numbers. Also you'll want to check the gasket that is under the Bank's plenum. This gasket could have been pinched or cracked, etc. Then last, the lower intake gaskets, I don't think this is your problem though.

The timing of the engine will grant you boost, althogh I can't speak from experience here. The only turbo rig I've had is the 6.5TD and I didn't get to play with the timing on it.

As for safe numbers, I can answer the water temp and EGT question. A good cruise EGT with a low load (flat ground) should be around 600*F and your water temperature should not exceed 240 but I don't even like to get to approx 220 because the back two cylinders (#' 7&8) are known to run 20-30*F higher than the rest. So, on water temperature, you need a wide safety range, thats my reasoning behind only Robertshaw 180 stats.

[doncannon]

Thanks john8662,
I check the old cdr line covers coming out of the intake. they are still tight although they are a little ballooned. there seems to be oil all around and down in the intake ( at least i do not think it is fuel lines ). I will tear the plenum off when it quits raining.
Thank you for your help,
Don

[doncannon]

hey john8662,
thanks to you and dieselboy. We just got back from a trip 55 miles each way. When we left I tried the timing that did not seem to help. While we were there I noticed the caps were still on but on the bottom they each had cuts in them. Replaced them with two 5/8 caps and now the boost is 4 1/2 lbs.
Thank you both very much,
Don
PS now all i have to do is give it more speed up the hills

[aloharovers]

Originally posted by john8662:
your water temperature should not exceed 240 but I don't even like to get to approx 220 because the back two cylinders (#' 7&8) are known to run 20-30*F higher than the rest. So, on water temperature, you need a wide safety range, thats my reasoning behind only Robertshaw 180 stats. So if your water temp sender is located in the head at #7 or #8 (or both smile.gif ) does that mean that the rest of the engine is cooler then indicated?

[john8662]

Don,

Glad to help, and I'm glad you found the culprit! As a suggestion to permanently fix the EGR nipples, I'd recommend using freeze plugs in the intake after you remove the nipples (they're just pressed in). Kind of hard to do with the intake installed on the engine, but can be done.

Aloharovers,

About the water temperature, I sure don't know the exact answer, but what I can tell you is that I'm installing a sender on #7 & 8 on a new 6.5 engine to find out soon. From everything I've seen and read about, they do run hotter, and it can be seen on cylinder wear as well. So, to be on the safe side, I run cooler temperature stats, just gives me the BIG safety margin, plus I like to watch gauges, but not all the time.

As for the rest of the engine running cooler, thats probably a given. The water temperature sender is mounted on the front of the cylinder head, so that may be giving a lower number than whats going on in the back, we'll see.

[doncannon]

Hello all,
john8662: Thank you for the advice. I am only temp fix. Have a 6.5td intake and am now ordering the 6.5td injectors and pump for a swap. that should get rid of those bad cdr tube nipples.

aloharovers: I have a 180 in my rig and rarely do i see temps over 200. I like to watch gauges like john8662 says and again like him i do not watch them all the time. i would guess maybe they hit 220 once. not too often

Don

[john8662]

Don,

This could get interesting...

The 6.5TD intake is a two-piece unit, consisting of the lower intake manifold and a bolt on upper intake piece that goes directly to the turbo. Using this intake will require some new plumbing to get your pressure tube from the turbo to the intake.

So, which intake are you going to use? The 6.5N/A intake (round opening but open plenum) or the TD intake that has place to insert six bolts in a pattern on the top?

If you use the 6.5n/a intake (preferred) it has one nipple, it's a bit larger than the 6.2 CDR nipples, but can be blocked off the same way. The turbo plenum doesn't have any.

[doncannon]

Hello All,
john8662: I will bolt on the 6.5td intake that is 2 pc. I am taking time to replumb the intake and hopefully have a little more power! Also would like to add my dust collecting intercooler!
Don