Steering wheel not returning totally

[n0n0_1963]

I instal a 4" lift kit on my Jimmy 4x4 diesel. Since then the steering doesnt come back totally when I turn left or right. Stay 1/4 trun out of the center.
Here is what I have done so far, brace and weld the frame, change all the tie rod (4), check the steering link, the lift kit came with all new bushing for the 4 leafs spring and a rasing streeing arm, the OEm steering stabilizer was replace by a new one. The all six shock absorber was replace, and the steering box was factory rebuilt.THE PROBLEMS STILL THERE, WHAT AM I MISSING , ANY IDEA WILL BE WELCOME.

[cruzer]

With the arch of the new springs you have probably changed the caster angle. Caster helps the wheel center itself. You should have something like 0-1 degrees positive caster,but that's just a guess. You may be able to find degree shims to install between springs and frt axle. Other than shims there's not too much you can do about it.

Does it have a slight wander when going down the road? Or the steering not feel as tight as it did b4? like your chasing it.

[n0n0_1963]

Yes it's exactly the problem, here is the number I had since the last check in shop,
Caster Left;6.7 Right;7.6
Canber Left;0.6 Right;-0.7
I adjust the toe in to have at the wheel 33" 5/8 the driver tire is getting worn out on the outside, where I can find the shim, they have them in the moog parts catalog but nobody seem to sell them and how much they should run for ?

[britannic]

A decent shop that does alignments should be able to shim it for you and get the whole rig set up properly.

[cruzer]

You can find shims at spring shop or an alignment shop. The problem w/shimming for caster is that you will have to ck the u-bolts periodically and make sure they stay tight and ck the center pins for breakage. You may also have to install a spacer to go under the center bolt in the spring so it sticks up high enuff to catch the hole in the axle. Most shims you'll find are made of alum or brass. I guessing the dimensions you state are negative caster. You will only be able to get close to what you need with shims. 6 degree shims in alum usually will break when tighting and brass is rare. At least what I've found.


There is an offroad shop on the net I think it's www.trailquest.com. (http://www.trailquest.com.) They make 4 & 6 degree steel shims. They have 2 kinds. 1 set goes over the center pin, which you will have to put a spacer under the center pin to catch a small part of the axle(I don't like) or weld to the bottom of the axle and use a stk center pin or socket head cap screw(allen head). The other bolts on the spring using the center pin(This is OK but pin can eventually break). I did the weld to axle and used SHCS's. My center pin used to break but not anymore. I do use my vehicle pretty hard on the rocks.

The correct way to fix is to grind out the welds at the axle tube and knuckle end so the knuckles can be rotated to proper caster angles and re-welded. It's pretty involved though.You also have to watch out for the pinion angle, if it's far off then more welding and fabrication is involved. Technically shims are frowned at on the front end.

There are camber shims available, they go in between the spindle and the knuckle. I personally would not use them. A good alignment shop for big trucks will make that adjustment by slightly bending the axle tube to get the correct angle. It is a common practice. My 2cts, it's as clear as mud!!!

[ 12-11-2003, 09:16 AM: Message edited by: cruzer ]