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J.T.
07-31-2005, 06:36
My diesel compression tester kit got here yesterday so I was up bright and early to play with my new toy. I've been looking forward to testing the compression on the 82 chevy 6.2 I bought for my '50 Chevy conversion, just couldn't wait to see if I needed to rebuild it or not. I had one glow plug that wouldn't come out, I've known about it since shortly after I bought the truck and just haven't had a reason to get it out until now.

I've read many posts about how to remove a plug that has expanded and decided that the best (most logical) method was removing the injector and using 90 deg. needle nose pliers to hold the tip while you snap the outer end off, then remove the tip through the injector hole.
Once I got the injector out I realized that whoever came up with this method must be on crack, the thread wall for the injector is so deep that you only have about half an inch of plug tip to hold onto. No way can you accomplish this without running a severe risk of dropping the plug tip into the cyl.

I pondered the situation for about 30 min to come up with a better way, the answer was finally realized and now I share it with you, in the hope that the glorious word will be spread and peace will rain down on all. Yea, it's that good!

Materials needed:
Two hands.
Min. two fingers and a one thumb per hand.
1 3/16 or 30mm deep six point socket. (injector removal)
10' dental floss (waxed)
1/4' dia. stick (or something similar)

Remove injector,
unscrew glow plug,
fashion a slipknot with dental floss,
loop slipknot over inside end of glowplug tip and tighten,
pull glowplug as far out as possible and snap threaded end off with pliers,
push remaining golwplug tip into head with stick and pull out of injector hole with dental floss.

So anyway I was able to test my compression and had interesting results:

450 -4 5- 450
385 -3 6- 390 Is this the correct cyl. numbering pattern for a GM?
380 -2 7- 380
370 -1 8- 370

I can't figure what would cause such a constant compression increase from front to rear on both sides like that, or rather how rings and/or valves could wear so symmetrically, but the good news is that I'm my lowest number is within 80% of the highest so I'm good to go and all in all these are some impressive numbers anyway. I'm starting to suspect that it may have been rebuilt at some point or just really cared for (it was a one owner truck).

BobND
07-31-2005, 07:45
Cylinder numbering is on the intake.

LH 1-3-5-7
RH 2-4-6-8

The motor is canted towards the back, so more oil from the crankcase ventilation mess in the intake runs towards the rear cylinders, making for less wear, better seal, and more compression! (JUST KIDDING, mostly!)

jcomp
07-31-2005, 07:56
That's cool. Looks like I'll be adding some dental floss to my tool kit. I've already got a nice collection of sticks, hands, thumbs and fingers. :D

J.T.
07-31-2005, 08:45
Originally posted by BobND:
Cylinder numbering is on the intake.

LH 1-3-5-7
RH 2-4-6-8

Thanks for the correction, I should be smacked! I just noticed the cyl numbering on the intake a little while ago.