REMOVING THE INJECTORS

[Coketruck]

will be completely neccesary to remove the intake and the lines from the pump to remove the injectors?
I did thought than only removing the line from the injector thread,i could to separte it a litlle to get enough clearance for remove the injector...
Thanks.

[britannic]

I released all of the injector line clamps, then very carefully moved the lines to one side of each injector to remove them. I used some wire to place enough side tension on the lines to keep them to one side as I unscrewed the injectors. If you use this method, be very careful not to get debris in the ends of the inj. lines as there's usually some crud in the nozzle threads.

[Coketruck]

Hi Brittanic,
I want to put new or reman injectors.
When you say the "line clamps" do you refer to the pieces wich have attached the lines to the intake?
Thanks for your help.

[britannic]

Anything that holds the lines in place and prevents being moved without permanently bending them...

[DmaxMaverick]

They can be pulled out of the way. Just not too much. The lines are stout and can be a pain to line up on the injector if tweaked too much. Never use steel jaw pliers to bend them. Soft jaw only.

The best method I've found is to loosen all the retainers and nuts. Pair up the lines (1-3, 5-7, 2-4, 6-8) and use a wire tie close to the nut at each pair to pull them together, just enough to clear the injector. When the new injector is in, just snip the tie. Most of the time they just spring back into place.

Be carefull with force used to move the lines. They are very stout, and can cause the nut on the pump end to loosen. There is a lot of leverage at the end you are moving.

Good luck.

[Coketruck]

Ok,thanks for the advices,
I,ll coment to you when i start with the job.
Regards.

[Coketruck]

Hello,
today i,ve tried to remove an injector for measure it,but it has been impossible.
I,ve tried it with a combinated 30mm wrench but I think the injector hex or nut is for a 31 mm key.
However wich shoul be the best tool for removing them ?
Deep socket & ratchet ?
Thanks.

[dieselbegreat]

For injector line nuts, I use a crowfoot on a ratchet extension to get them loose. For injectors, I use a Snap-On S6128 (27mm) which is nice for that tight #8 cylinder because it has provision for putting a crescent wrench on it.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?search=true&item_ID=10720&PartNo=S6128&group_id=1326&store=snapon-store&tool=all

I've been told you can also use a 1-1/16 inch DEEP socket like a Sears Craftsman.

[Coketruck]

27 mm?
The injectors hex and this Snap- on socket are 30mm...
Tomorrow i,ll try to find something similar around here.I suppouse a extra long 30mm socket will be enough..
Thanks.

[jonflies]

I recently used the recommended 30 mm, six point front axle nut socket. I also purchased the other "j" (twelve-point) tool from Kent Moore. The Kent Moore tool is way more expensive, is shorter and has a "wrench hex" on the end, for using a box-end wrench if you can get one to fit in the tight confines. I had to purchase a piece of pipe to fit over the end of my 1/2-inch ratchet as my hinge handle (breaker bar) wouldn't give me enough movement to get a good force angle on it.

If you haven't already removed them, my injectors came out with much difficulty. It seems they were bound by carbon deposits between the tip and the head clearance.

My injectors were rebuilt by Southeast Power in Tampa, Florida, for $45.00 each. They would not vaporize when sent in for rebuild.

More on removing swollen glow plugs in a new post.

[NH2112]

I use a Snap-on S6133 socket because it's shorter overall (nothing else will get on #8 if you have AC) and because it has a 7/8" hex drive for an open-end/box wrench.

[dieselbegreat]

oops. 30mm I meant. duh. thanks for the correction.