hard start help

[shawn.m]

just picked up a 82 6.2 NA. Truck ran fine first day. filled tank full with diesel. next day drained fuel filter on firewall to get water out as light was on for water in fuel. think i let some air into system as it would not start. cracked all 8 injectors until had fuel weeping out of each of them. checked cold start and can hear it clicking.
motor turns over fine with two newer batteries and newer starter. i have white smoke coming out of the tailpipe and some white smoke out of intake after cranking for a long time. have 12 volts going to all 8 glow plugs.
trucks will intermittly fire almost like it is too far advance in a gas car. then as batteries wear down it stops firing.
have not bought a factory manual yet so any help is appreciated.
also on my injection pump it is smooth with no timing marks?

[shawn.m]

also noticed the the temp gauge was bouncing at lights as i slowed. when i got home checked radiator and it was severely low. took a while for it to fill back up. radiator has good size leak in it which seller did not disclose to me so not happy on that.

[shawn.m]

OK got it started. wd-40 did not do it but starting fluid did it. small shot- i know bad shawn.
ran 10 minutes shut off and then it restarted fine.
maybe glow plugs? the Previous owner did bypass the stock set up completely with a starter solenoid.

[jonflies]

Just completed an IP change, and have been maintaining my 82 burb for three years now. I would read more of the threads, perhaps do a search of key words. You may want to change glow plugs, and make sure the block is warm before attempting the start. My IP had to be changed due to hard/no starting when warm. I'm finishing my after work report, with digital pics and will post it to my website soon. I have learned the hard way about filters, lift pumps etc., and would advise you change them when the weather is good, before something happens, when the weather is bad or you need the ride.

[TimK]

Shawn,

Here are a couple of things to check out. Besides getting 12 volts to each glow plug, with each glow plug connector removed, check the resistance from the glow plug tab to it's base (or ground). Each should read about 0.5 to 1.5 ohms. Almost as if was a dead short. Anything reading on an ohm meter of 10 Ohm or more means you have a bad plug.

Sometimes when the guages start to bounce when cranking, it's a sign you have some poor ground connections. That starter pulls a lot of current and it will find every path available when under heavy load.

Since you just got this truck, have the compression tested. If you have some low cylinders or overall low compression, it's best to find that out now before you dump a bunch of time and money in to plugs, starters, plug relays, timing adjustements and whatever to get this to start. A compression check is done by removing the glow plugs and using a diesel compression guage and adapter. Since the plugs are too hard to remove, a test shouldn't cost too much. You can also buy a guage and adapter from Matco Tools on-line for about $65 bucks and do it yourself.

TimK

[Brianlar]

Compression test for these engines is to be done hot. 300, to 400, psi is your range. Got the part no, for the Matco tester???

[TimK]

You can order these on-line at http://www.matcotools.com . The compression tester is part# CT15 at $58.10 and the adapter is part# CT152 at $15.70.

TimK

[DmaxMaverick]

You can make an adapter by using a cut and hollowed glow plug and a threaded bushing. Weld/braise them together and use your standard compression tester, as long as the gage goes high enough.