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View Full Version : Timing Gears, New IP, Stud Girdle, Waterpump, Rear Main, etc



john8662
02-07-2005, 18:43
OK, I've mentioned on here before that I would post some pictures of what it takes to install a few of the goodies that we all think about in a 6.2L. This was a project on my ol 86 1/2 ton 6.2L pickup, its still an on going project.

I put together a slide show with some descriptions and pictures of some of the work involved in installing a few parts.

New injection pump
DSG Timing Gear Set
DSG Stud Girdle Kit

Some other items involved in the process were:

New water pump
New Rear Main seal
Re-sealing the valve covers

So for the images go HERE (http://members.cox.net/acmdsl/www/truck-teardown.html)

You'll notice that the links on the top of the page are dead, this page is a work in progress. I just thought that I would get this section up since there has been quite a lot of discussion about these items lately!

Post your comments! Thanks and enjoy!

arveetek
02-07-2005, 20:16
Wow! Excellent job! It's funny that you would post that now, since I'm getting ready to do almost the exact same thing! We think a lot alike. I've even got the valve covers off my spare 6.2L all cleaned up and painted, ready to be swapped onto my engine in an effort to decrease the down time.

Two questions: why didn't you just pull the engine and do the work on the stand? As you know, I'm contemplating pulling my engine, and I'm not even planning on any bottom end work. Secondly, how long did this project take?

Keep up the good work!

Casey

john8662
02-07-2005, 22:28
Casey,

I sure did think about why I didn't pull it, especially for doing the bottom end stuff. I guess it all boiled down to sentimentality, in that the engine has never been out of the truck (original). Another reason was that I don't have a tranny jack (yet), because its not really any fun to install engine and tranny as one (been there a few times).

This project took me two weeks, but I wasn't hurting for something to drive and I could leave it in stages apart in the shop out of the weather. If I had everything I needed from the start, I guess I could have knocked it out in 3 days. I'm glad I took my time though.

Thanks for the praise!

Dieselboy
02-08-2005, 06:01
Excellent work! Lots and lots of pictures sure do make a difference.

How do you like the gears?

mdregister
02-08-2005, 06:10
John, Great job. That can be a very good resource for anyone doing those jobs. For someone like me, who is learning as they go, that would be very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to do it.

I am planning on doing a similar thing in the future when I pull my engine to replace a weeping head gasket. I am going to try to remember to take some hi-res pics of the R&R as a reference to myself during re-assembly and to post here.

Mike

john8662
02-08-2005, 19:41
Dieselboy,

I'm a little bit uneasy with the gears, they are a bit noisy for my taste. On the plus side, this engine has a lot of power for a n/a 6.2. I notice that the engine is very crisp throughout the RPM band all the way to 4100 RPM. Right now from a take off punch it will spin the tires steady until the transmission shifts into third. But the idle now STINKS again, grrr...

Everyone else,

OK, I'm going to park the truck this week, its really getting on my nerves, rough idle, shaking idle when in gear, take it out of gear and its decent. This is the same problem I had before the work, but i thought it was fixed for 1k miles. The injection pump was NEW not rebuilt this time, brand new. So it's obviously something else. Anyone else have this problem and have a solution? I guess I'll drive my new little toy to work, the 82 short box.

arveetek
02-09-2005, 08:29
John,

How did you set the timing after putting the engine back together? Do have the proper timing equipment?

Just wondering...

Casey

john8662
02-09-2005, 10:36
The timing turned out to be way off when I got it back together. I was running something like 8.5 BTDC just lining up the timing marks. its sitting at 4.5 BTDC now, I had to take the truck to local shop to borrow a timing meter.

mdregister
02-09-2005, 16:08
I was shocked at how far advanced my timing was with the pump mark aligned after my DSG gear install. The gears have no "slack" and so the pump must be moved toward the passenger side to account for the exactness of the gears. My pump is a good 1/4 inch to the left of the line stamped on the pump flange and is reading 4.5 BTDC.

If you install the DSG gears do not line the marks up, that will be too advanced.

You can buy a diesel timing meter on e-bay-that is what I did. The prices have been quite high lately though. The analog Snap-on meters have been going for $250-$275, and the digital ones closer to $380-$400.

John,

I also have the same problem with an intermittent rough idle that goes away when not in gear. I bumped my idle speed up from 650 to about 680 and that has helped a lot. Let me know if you find a solution.

Mike

[ 02-09-2005, 03:20 PM: Message edited by: mdregister ]

john8662
02-09-2005, 18:22
Originally posted by mdregister:


I also have the same problem with an intermittent rough idle that goes away when not in gear. I bumped my idle speed up from 650 to about 680 and that has helped a lot. Let me know if you find a solution. I'm not alone then. I've got two problems. A groaning resonating sound at 1600-1750 RPM and the rough idle. They're both killing me! I've done just about everything to correct it too:

new engine and tranny mounts
all the work mentioned in the pics
tighten the snot out of the belts

I am at my wits end with this truck/engine right now, I've invested tons of $ and time towards it, and I haven't been able to fix it.

I guess my next thing to try would be to (I'll get it for saying this) is convert the fuel system on this truck to DS4 6.5 ELECTRONIC injection. I am just about sold that DB2 injection pumps are OLD technology and do NOT provide accurate engine control for modern use of this engine. I mean, in 86 (bad year anyways) they probably got away with a rough idle, not now.

I'm collecting parts for this conversion, but for the meantime the truck will be collecting dust in the garage while I drive something else and get my 6.5TD running again...

On another subject, my timimg marks are 1/8 on the retarded side of the line (passengers side), wow, I can't believe the 1/4" I was surprised myself to find out it was so high, Was really cool sounding though.

arveetek
02-10-2005, 06:11
Originally posted by john8662:


I guess my next thing to try would be to (I'll get it for saying this) is convert the fuel system on this truck to DS4 6.5 ELECTRONIC injection. I am just about sold that DB2 injection pumps are OLD technology and do NOT provide accurate engine control for modern use of this engine. I mean, in 86 (bad year anyways) they probably got away with a rough idle, not now.

I'm collecting parts for this conversion, but for the meantime the truck will be collecting dust in the garage while I drive something else and get my 6.5TD running again...
You're definitely going to "get it" for saying that! ;)

That's the last thing I would ever do, convert to DS4. I'm going to go look at a 96 C2500 tonight, and the first thing I'd do if I got a DS4 truck like that would be to yank it off and replace it with a DB2! My DB2 truck with 120K miles and worn out timing chain idles just as smoothly as can be. I seriously doubt converting to DS4 would make any difference at all. Perhaps you have a burned valve or something like that?

Casey

G. Gearloose
02-10-2005, 06:46
Originally posted by john8662:
I guess my next thing to try would be to (I'll get it for saying this) is convert the fuel system on this truck to DS4 6.5 ELECTRONIC injection. egad, surely you jest!

john8662
02-10-2005, 10:27
I'm not kidding, I've got a DS4 pump as a spare for my 95 that I'm thinking of trying. I'll admit it's going to be a last ditch effort.

Some things I still have to look into:

Fuel restriction problems, I need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see what I'm getting to the injection pump itself. If its low, I may go ahead and bypass the fuel tank swapping valve (use jumper hoses to manually select a tank). If that doesn't help, maybe I'll pull the tanks and have a look at the condition of the fuel pickup lines and socks. This problem has me thourally stumped.

Burned valve? but wouldn't the compression suffer? I did a compression test on the engine prior to all the work. The compression was consistantly 360 at the lowest with 6 puffs (8 puffs increased all holes 20-30 psi), Most of the cylinders were 360-370 and just one at 390 (that was imbalanced). But I wouldn't figure that higher compression in one hole as opposed to lower than normal would cause a really rough idle. it feels like a miss in a gasser (like an arcing plug wire, intermittantly).

I'll agree on some engines that they idle nicely, my 82 short bed has 170k miles on it, idles pretty nice, and original timing chain, but it isn't very powerfull (yet).

Bobbie Martin
02-15-2005, 14:55
Originally posted by john8662::

I am just about sold that DB2 injection pumps are OLD technology and do NOT provide accurate engine control for modern use of this engine. [/QB]I can tell you the "old tech" DB2 on our 95 Suburban turbo diesel works just fine. I would never have a DS4 again. There may be a problem with your pump, but its not common to all DB2s.