Should I pull engine to R&R lifters? Yes, I believe I should!

[arveetek]

You're probably thinking, "What, pull the engine just to replace the lifters?" Well, here's what I'm thinking:

I'm pretty sure my knocking noise is a bad lifter. It's getting on my nerves and I need to fix it soon. I know that I can replace the lifters with the engine in the truck, but it's a real PITA. Also, I need to install the dual idler gear drive set. Plus, I need to replace the motor mounts. The driver's side is real bad and it's even busted the bolt that holds the two parts together. So, in order to do all this, I'm going to have to remove the intake manifold, injection pump, injection lines, valve covers, remove the valve train, remove all engine accessories, remove water pump, front cover, remove motor mount bolts, jack up engine, replace motor mounts....

At this point in the game, there's not much left holding the engine in...just the tranny and exhaust, really. So I'm wondering if I'd be doing myself a favor and just pull the engine to start with, mount it on the stand, and do all the work where it's easy to get to. Plus, I can pull the pan and inspect the lower end to see how it's holding up. It's also way much easier to replace the motor mounts with the engine out.

Whaddya think? Worth the effort? I don't really want to replace the headgaskets, 'cause they're fine, and I want to see how long it will go before needing them, but then again, if the engine's out...

Maybe I'm just crazy. :rolleyes:

Casey

[ 02-09-2005, 05:31 AM: Message edited by: arveetek ]

[dieselbegreat]

How come you have to remove the intake and IP/lines? All you need is to remove the valve cover and sneak it under the loose lines to see the lifter, right? (Not like a gas engine where you remove the intake to get to the lifters.) Also, I've never tried it but, these engines are notoriously top-heavy for an engine stand. Seems dangerous with the heads on.

[john8662]

Hmm, I was almost at the same spot a month ago. I guess the only thing I wouldn't want to mess with is the turbo. You are right in that you need to remove the intake to remove the injection lines then get the valve covers off. It's up to you man, if you have the tools to pull the engine (engine hoist) and want to do some other things to the engine, then pull it. The timing gears really are not that bad with the engine installed.

But, if you're set on pulling it, you might consider pulling the pan on the engine when you get it on the stand and installing the stud girdle kit.


Check out my post of in chassis upgrades here (http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=003410)

[ 02-07-2005, 05:48 PM: Message edited by: john8662 ]

[arveetek]

Well, with the front cover off the engine and the injection lines loose to pull the valve covers, the only thing holding the pump and lines in place is gravity! Might as well take the whole unit off the engine to get it out of the way. Plus, with the lines going over the valve train, they're going to be in the way of getting to the lifters some.

My engine stand is plenty heavy enough. In fact, I have a spare 6.2L sitting on it right now. I thought of going ahead and rebuilding it, but that would cost way too much. It needs a total overhaul. There's still enough rust in the cylinders to prevent the crank from turning very far.

I don't really have to change the motor mounts right now. I could do that at a later date. That would save me some down time, and would allow me to do all the rest of the work topside.

Has anyone else besides brittanic replaced the lifters with the heads on in the vehicle? I've experimented with my spare engine, and it's hard enough to do with the engine on the stand at perfect working height!

Casey

[ 02-07-2005, 07:25 PM: Message edited by: arveetek ]

[More Power]

If there's more than about 75K on the engine, I'd pull the heads to replace the head gaskets (as a preventive measure) - along with the lifters... Having the engine on a stand would also allow you to fully examine the engine.

MP

[EWC]

I've done lifters with the heads on and it was very interesting to do . I think I'd pull the engine .

[arveetek]

Okay, I've decided to go ahead and pull the engine. With 120K miles on it, it's time for a little "refreshing." If it weren't for the bad lifter, I wouldn't even think about tearing it down. But, it's going to be such a chore, I might as well just yank it and do it right the first time.

Any suggestions on what else I might do while I have the engine out? I'm planning on: new lifters, new head gaskets, DSG timing gears, new water pump, replace all seals/gaskets, pull the pan to inspect bottom end, and I will probably order and install the stud girdle kit while I'm at it. I'm not planning on rings or bearings unless I find something wrong.

Casey

[dieselcrawler]

Casey,
I'm faced with the same problem/idea. I need to do some of the same work to my own truck, as well as pull the trans... looks like the motor, trans/t-case are all gonna come out. Rebuild trans, new gaskets on the motor, motor mounts, and best of all, a turbo... which leads to head gaskets... I may have the ol' truck down longer than I plan. I'm sure everyone knows how that goes.
And in your situation, if you got the shop, the tools, and maybe a pal or 2 to lend a hand, pull the motor. I'm all about having things where they are easy to work on, and the time spent pulling the motor will likly be saved in ease of working on the motor.

Greg

[arveetek]

Yep, I've got the tools, shop, engine stand, etc., I just don't have an engine hoist. But my buddy does, so I just borrow it when I need it.

I've pulled and rebuilt several engines, so I'm no stranger to the process.

I'm planning on pulling the engine next weekend. I ordered new Corteco head gaskets, head bolts, new lifters, and the stud girdle kit yesterday. I still need to order some Engergy Suspension motor mount inserts so I don't have to replace the motor mounts again.

I already have some other parts, so, while the engine is out I'm going to be replacing the head gaskets, lifters, inspect the bottom end, install the stud girdle kit, replace timing chain with DSG timing gears, replace water pump, replace all seals/gaskets, and install new motor mounts in the truck. I also need to replace the O-ring on the turbo housing...it's leaking oil.

Anything else I should do while the engine is out? I'm planning on cleaning up and painting the engine bay while I'm at it. Starting to look kinda sorry. I think I'll install a new blanket on the underside of the hood as well.

Casey

[arveetek]

I ordered my Energy Suspension motor mounts today. I found that www.suspension.com (http://www.suspension.com) had the lowest price of $18.00 each, plus about $8 shipping. Summit racing was $24.95 each with $8.95 shipping, and then the prices went up from there. Part #3-1116 is what I ordered.

I received my head gaskets today and was quite surprised. See my Corteco head gasket post. (http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=003416#000004)

Casey